11/20/2016

Himeji castle

Himeji castle



Go to Himeji castle

Begin with the question 'where is Himei castle?' It's in Himeji city. Many tourists to Japan may misunderstand Himeji castle is in Osaka or Kyoto. But that's incorrect.

Himeji castle

Get onto the main subject, we introduce the location of Himeji castle. It's in 70 kilometers west of Osaka city. Osaka is one of well known Japanese cities, so we start from there. From Osaka to Himeji, we can use several public transportation. For example, railway and highway and so on. Osaka is also the gate city of the western region of Japan. Many tourists use railway usually. The railway system in Japan is known as JR, and JR was once a government-managed company. So, JR has a railroad network all over Japan. Then, there is a track from Osaka to Himeji. One more information, there are some big private railways in the Kansai area. We can visit Himeji city only using private railways.


Hankyu train (Private)


When you use a JR train, there are two ways. Using Shinkansen Super Express and local only.

Using Shinkansen: 56 minutes (depends on timetable)
  Osaka station ⇒ Shin-osaka ⇒ (Shinkansen Super Express) ⇒ Himeji station

Using Local only: 63 minutes (depends on timetable)
  Osaka station ⇒ Shin-osaka ⇒ (Shin-kaisoku: Rapid train) ⇒ Himeji station

A Shinkansen train is convenient, if you disregard its expense. For example, you can buy a reservation ticket from a vending machine.
In contrast, roughly speaking, local is inexpensive but inconvenient. Though you use a Rapid train, you can arrive in almost constant time. However, you can barely get a seat.


When you use private trains, you can choose 2 private trains. Hansin train and Hankyu train, but you should transfer Sanyo train at Kobe both.


Using Hansin train: 97 minutes (depends on timetable)
  Umeda station (same as Osaka) ⇒ (Hansin super express) ⇒ Kobe-motomachi ⇒ (kousoku-Kobe) ⇒ Nisisiro ⇒ (Sanyo super express)
  ⇒ Sanyo-Himeji
 

Using Hansin train: 94 minutes (depends on timetable)
  Umeda station (same as Osaka) ⇒ (Hankyu super express) ⇒ Kobe-sannomiya ⇒ (kousoku-Koube) ⇒ Nisisiro ⇒ (Sanyo super express)
  ⇒ Sanyo-Himeji
 

When you use private trains, you should remember it's considerably far to move between Hansin station and Hankyu station. So, you'd better make a decision which train system you use. If you change trains from Hansin to Hankyu or vice versa, you need more times than you thought.

And one more information
From Osaka to Himeji, there aren't long-distance buses. Nonetheless, you start from Tokyo, you can choose some. If you ride one of them in Tokyo in the early night, wake up at Himeji next morning.



Make an attack on Himeji castle


Himeji castle is the only place in Japan where numerous survivals, not only a main tower but also minor battle-towers, walls, moats, ramparts, and entity zones are retained. Then, Himeji castle is the best. With a feeling excited, let's go to make an attack on Himeji castle.


Himeji castle (from JR Station)

Walking north from Himeji JR station, Himeji castle has existed far from our eyesight, shining whitely. It took ten minutes or so to reach the entrance gate of Himeji castle, and its appearance was getting big as we were walking toward it. We walked across a crosswalk of an avenue, crossed a bridge on the wide moat baileyed around the boundary of Himeji castle, and went through Oute-mon or the main gate. The route makes a U-turn around this gate. Then, we saw an expansive lawn area is called San-no-maru Hiroba, and a grand view of the great main tower of Himeji castle. The view is exactly the same as the scenery we had seen in photos and television pictures. What an inspiring view! A few sightseeing spots look very good in their photos or television pictures, but in reality they are so-so. However, Himeji castle has genuine forcepower. We felt we had reached here.

Oute-mon
San-no-maru Hiroba



Hishi-no-mon

The toll facility of this siting is existing in the left hand corner of San-no-maru Hiroba. Passing through the facility, we reached Hishi-no-mon or gate Hishi. Hishi-no-mon is the first intact building tourists can see closely. In this place, we could see the great main tower from an oblique angle on the opposite side of Sangoku-bori or moat Sangoku. We had seen pictures from this angle many times. But real view was different. We were also impressed.

Himeji castle (from Hishi-no-mon)
Sangoku-bori

We followed the route, and we reached an upslope toward Ha-no-mon or gate Ha. There are big plastered earthen walls on the right hand of an upslope path. And these walls have many holes, triangle, rectangle, and round shape at a certain interval. The holes are called Teppou-hazama or ports for shooting. On the left hand side, there are ramparts and a Ni-no-maru battle-tower. When you walk up the path, you will feel Sengoku era's atmosphere strongly. We thought this place was the most exciting place in this siting.


Ha-no-mon

A soldier shooting

How do you think about our opinion?

After that, many small gates and complex paths appeared in front of us. Then we reached the great main tower finally. There are a few small towers around the main tower, and inside of the complex are connected to each other. We couldn't understand where we were standing. We had visited many castles all over Japan and entered these main towers. Himeji castle's main tower was the widest we've ever visited. Once more, it was very wide.

The great main tower

Going up stairs, and at last we arrived at the top floor and felt the height of the great main tower. Though the way to the top floor, we got confused. We failed to find the location of stairs which were arranged. And also failed to understand where we were standing inside the great main tower and coexisting small towers. The direction board was the only item for us to understand where are us. Conversely, we were satisfied even though we had such experience.

That's because we had the impression that we had accomplished the tour of the great main tower.


Hishi-no-mon
Sangoku-bori
Ha-no-mon
Teppou-hazama
Ni-no-maru


From Nishi-no-maru

We went out from the great main tower into the open air, and followed the route to the southern place called Bizen-maru. There was an empty place no building was existing. Once there had been a residence of feudal lords, but only ramparts have existed now.

Sitting in the farthest bench, we looked up at the great main tower. Then a feeling that we had accomplished came into mind and sense of accomplishment also came bit by bit. 

The place once the main residence was existed is vacant, and the building wasn't rebuilt. Why? We think it's important for the tourists to calm down of their sense.

We thought so. But how do you think? Please remember our question, if you accomplish the tour in the great main tower. And please ask yourself you need to cool down or not. 

In our case, feelings of excitement in our minds were settled down, and started the tour again. We went out Bizen-mon or gate Bizen in the east side of the great main tower, and turned the route and went down to Mi-no-maru in the south of Bizen-maru. Then, went down to Hishi-no-mon, passing through the east side of Sangoku-bori. What an elaborate route!

After leaving Himeji castle, to tell the truth, we were disappointed a little. Because we had unrequited hope. If we could enter small towers around the great main tower and also battle-towers in the siting!

 We only looked at the outside of these properties from the route for tourists. In our opinions, the route to the great main tower is a main dish. But we need strarters and deserts, so we hope there would be visiting to the battle-towers or the gates.
However, Himeji castle is the best castle that Japan can boast to the world. We proudly say your tour there would be worthwhile. 


Bizen-maru
Bizen-mon


πŸ’­ By the way, if you want to visit other national treasure castles, you can learn more information from these articles below...


πŸ’­ And also you can get brief information from the article, "Who are them?"





Look around every side of Himeji castle


These opinions described below are based on our concepts. We know you have many other concepts. This is one concept among many opinions. Please face it.


It has been said an attacking force cannot capture Himeji castle. Because there were many gates, walls, and battle-towers on their way to the great main tower. Attacking forces were blocked by these barriers, so they couldn't come close to the great main tower. We think this opinion is easily understood when you actually walk along the visitor's tour route.

Gate and walls

But the Lords of this castle used the same route to the great main tower? They used another route, we suppose.

As long as we tour visitor's route, it's difficult to find contradictions. However, there are many contradictions. For example, some gates are so small to be used by many people like Lord's prossecions. 


Also the entrance of the great main tower is located in the backyard. The reason we suppose that is in the backyard, there are storage sheds. We think it's difficult to image that is the main entrance of the great main tower.


One of small gates
 In the Sengoku era, main towers were used only battle time. Residential facilities were mainly used as their living places and as their political places. This means people in those days used the reverse course of a visitor's route nowadays. Namely, the route from Hishi-no-mon to Bizen-maru passing Ni-no-maru was proper.

In this route, attacking force had to capture many complex building of gates and battle-towers. But, there weren't tricky devices. The reason of the visitor's route is to attract us by many tricky devices, so this is an arrangement of hosts.


If you jump your thoughts, you need not to go through a vast San-no-maru siting. In the east side of the castle, there are Karamete-mon or sub date which directly connects to Bizen-mon. Bizen-mon is a main gate of Hon-maru or center area. The Karemete-mon are also called To-no-shi-mon or number four gate of To. And you can't observe this in your tour. Because you can't see it in your route. It is a pity.


From east side
After leaving Bizen-mon, you go down to east of the castle, and you get to Kisai-mon, where wide moats are around it. There is a tall stone wall against an attacking force. It's unable to find how eastside defence was constructed. But as far as we look at, there was sturdy defence on this side. Furthermore, this gate, Kisai-mon might be just the thing lords who lived in this castle used when they went up to their living space and went down to the outer area. So, lords might seldom use magnificent Hishi-no-mon.

 Go to the north side surounding space of this castle. Is there something interest? In north side, there were no defensive structures.
North side of Himeji castle was actually a tall steep cliff, and on the top of it, there made battle-towers and connecting structures to defend north side.


From north side

In Aichi prefecture, a similar style castle is existed. That is called Inuyama castle. And north side of the main tower is a cliff above the Nagara river that is one of the large rivers in Japan. So, it's difficult to attack from northen side of the castle.


As far as we looked at the north of Himeji castle, there weren't defensive structures or natural barrier in spite of its original cliff.


We think there were lost defensive structures because we want to believe any attacking force couldn't capture at all. We afraid a little that you will not agree with our optimistic way of viewing, especially if you saw a brilliant side only.

Information Board

Himeji castle was renovated into current form by an anti-Toyotomi Lord. To inhibit force power sympathizing Toyotomi-families who had their domains around the western Japan. Tokugawa-families were afraid of their counterattack, at the very timing Tokugawa-families attacked Osaka castle.

(In the history of Japan, Tokugawa-families won and Toyotomi-families were destroyed at Osaka castle. That was connected closely the birth story of Himeji castle.)

Considering historical reasons, the south side was the most important for Himeji castle. When lords sympathizing Toyotomi-families moved to Osaka castle, their way to march might be the south of the castle.


So the defense of the south was the most important. We are amateurs, and should put the answer to the next study by specialists.


Karamete-mon
Hon-maru
To-no-shi-mon
Kisai-mon
Inuyama-castle
Nagara river

Toyotomi-family
Tokugawa-family

NIshi-no-maru

In the western side of Himeji castle, there is Nishi-no-maru or a west baily. This compound was made ten and few years after the main reconstruction. Considering discussions above, it was built to strengthen defense of western side. But the episode told, this place was made as the residence of famous princess Sen-hime.
We can't agree with this commonly accepted theory. Please find your conclusion by yourself.

we met them in this exploration

At the birth episode of Nishi-no-maru, Sen-hime made these complex buildings to worship Otokoyama-hachiman or shrine named boys mountain. She wished for the healthy growth of her son.

Very  steep
When you look at Himeji castle from Otokoyama-hachiman's mountain top, you can find another aspect of Himeji castle. At the top of the mountain, there is a viewing platform. To the platform, steep and straight stairs of hundreds steps go up to the goal. Be careful, when trying.

You can use rental bicycles in front of Himeji station. It's a good idea not only going up to the great main tower but also cycle around the castle. We also visited Sen-hime-botan-en or botanical garden of peonies, Kouko-en or Japanese gardens,
Himeji-jinja or shrine Himeji and so on which are located around Himeji castle.


History museum of Hyogo prefecture is a facility for study and exhibition. It's located in the northern site of the castle. We had no chance to visit this museum. But in the future, we would visit such a facility.


In the southern part of the castle, Eagle Himeji or International exchange center of Himeji city is there. From rest space at the highest floor, you can look at the great main tower. That space is kind of secret great spot.


Nishi-no-maru
Sen-hime
Otokoyama-hachiman
Sen-hime-botan-en
Kouko-en
Himeji-jinjya
History museum of Hyogo Prefecture
Eagle Himeji


Talking of tour, you say souvenirs. Japanese people often buy sweets for souvenirs.
Here we select three of them on our own judgement.


First is Siomi-manju. Small manju or a bun stuffed with sweetened bean paste, and that skin is a little firm also a little salty. Siomi means salty flavor.

This manju is made by Tamatsubaki-honpo-ise-ya-honten, which was a long-established confectionery with official authorization of Himeji-han or feudal government of Himeji.


Siomi-manjyu

Second is Kaki-hachinen. It is also manju and its skin is like a dried persimmon and its filling is sweetened bean paste.
This manju is made by Edo-ya. Domestic shipping is available.

Kaki-hachinen

Last one is Hime-no-kuni-no-karipo. An assortment of Karinto or fried dough cookies. There is a famous Karinto company in Himeji city.

Hime-no-kuni-no-karipo

Basic Information

(The total number of Japanese castles, and the castles now exist)

The area once castles existed are 40000 and many. But the typical survivals we image the castles in which stone basements, wide moat and mostly main tower is existing are approximately 300. And more, only 12 castle areas, original main towers are remained.

Matsumoto castle

Japanese castles which have tall masonry structures and wide moat are known as the early modern Japanese castles. These were constructed during slightly short period in Japanese history. Do you know this? From 1600 (this year the Battle of Sekigahara was happened) to 1615 (this year the Siege of Osaka castle was ended) numerous early modern castles were made.

the Battle of Sekigahara
the Siege of Osaka castle


What is the key to solve this historical puzzle?

That is the atmosphere. There was high pressure all over Japan at that time. Because in that era there was a translation of  political power from Toyotomi families to Tokugawa families. So the lords were afraid that a big war would happen in several years.


Nagoya castle

And they decided to renovate their castles which were the basic point of their domination to be as strong as the pressure of the war. Besides, Tokugawa group constructed many magnificent castles to surround Osaka castle which is the center of Toyotomi families.
Himeji castle, Nagoya castle, Hikone castle are built or totally renovated for this purpose.


In addition, Nagoya castle was constructed at the most strategic point for Tokugawa group. So, it was important and strongly built.

Because Nagoya was the best place to prevent an attack of Toyotomi group. Then it's compounded area was the widest among castles, and the planning was front line in that time. But it's a pity Nagoya castle's main tower and main residence were burned in a fire of the bomb during WW2, and much of it's compounded area was redeveloped to the office area.



(The Charm of castles of the early modern period)


The era castles of the early modern period were constructed was like the bubble period of Showa. In this era, many lords constructed their castles newly or reconstructed completely using their knowledge they had learned practically at the battle fields. However, these castles didn't experience a real war. So their defensive strength wasn't tried.


Osaka castle

A really giant battle to siege the giant castle was happened. That was the siege of Osaka castle in 1615. When the battle was happened, Osaka castle was approximately 30 years after its birth. So the defense system was sort of out-of-date.

After the siege of Osaka castle, castles changed into rural political centers instead of military bases. And also as the residences of Daimyo clans or the power holder families. That is the real aspect of these castles we see now.