Fukuchiyama castle

Western region of Kyoto is mountains after mountains which aren't steep and high but endless. In this mountainous region, there is the Fukuchiyama city which is one of the central cities in this district, and unique Fukuchiyama castle is there.  

Fukuchiyama castle main tower

We already visited 4 castles among 12 remained Japanese castle towers, then we want to mention this castle, it's not one among them. This castle was reconstructed in reference to old drawings, so it is classified "reconstructed main tower." Stone ramparts of the main tower are remained ones, but other materials were lost in ancient times. This main tower was reconstructed by reinforced concrete structure 30 years ago. So this is the young one among "reconstructed main towers."

This castle has the unique appearance main tower, although other reconstructed main towers' probable appearance. It was reconstructed strongly aimed to make use of its original taste, and its appearance became quite unique. Underlying it, others usually chose a way to make their appearance like something they should be, because of need as tourists sites.

Nevertheless, this Fukuchiyama castle's appearance is full of guts, unyielding high-spirit and strongness. In spite of aggressive appearance, its inside is quite usual, because it is used as a museum as is often the case. However, full of the intensity in it, we want to describe the passion of the people who concerned with Fukuchiyama castle.


Significance in the history

If you acquired little historical knowledge of Fukuchiyama castle, you should be satisfied more when you visit there. It was said that this castle had been made by Akechi Mitsuhide for the first time. He was one of the most important people among Oda Nobunaga's senior retainers. And his life was very unusual, but this story has nothing to do with the history of Fukuchiyama castle, so we'll not touch the subject. 

Akechi Mitsuhide

When Oda Nobunaga established the dominance over Kyoto, the central city at that time, the new aspect of the dominance appeared. Oda Nobunaga had his territory around Kyoto, and his rival forces surrounded it.

Roughly speaking, major opponents were Takeda Shingen, Uesugi Kenshin, Mouri Terumoto. Takeda Shingen was in the eastern region, and Tokugawa Ieyasu, one of the Oda's allies stood face to face. Another opponent, Uesugi Kenshin was in the northern region, and Shibata Katsuie, Oda's senior retainer covered. One more opponent, Mouri Terumoto was in the western region, and Hashiba Hideyoshi was in the battle.

Akechi Mitsuhide was a member of Hashiba group, who invaded the western region of Kyoto. At the beginning of this campaign, he had been appointed to the leader of this army group. Then he had begun to invade Tanba district, but this campaign was not successful ane slow to defeat the lords around this district. The position was changed by Oda Nobunaga's order, because he was said to be short temper.

We don't know the exact reason why he failed this campaign, but we suppose the landform of this district connected deeply. What we're saying is Tanba district was a difficult area to attack, no matter how strong commander tried. Mountains after mountains landform helped domestic lords to resist Akechi's invasion more than expected.  

Go to Fukuchiyama castle

JR Fukuchiyama line from Osaka to Fukuchiyama is available. There was the same route from Osaka to the coastland of western Kyoto along the Sea of Japan at the time of the Sengoku period. And there is a city named Sasayama between Osaka and Fukuchiyama, which was strategically important in the Azuchi-momoyama period (after the Sengoku period). Tokugawa Ieyasu made the Sasayama castle as the important defensive base of this district when he was fighting against Toyotomi family in Osaka. If Sasayama castle remained, it would be a marvelous castle same as Himeji castle or Hikone castle. But its castle tower was destroyed, and only lord's residence was reconstructed 20 years ago, and we can see it. 

It takes only 1 hour 40 minites to Fukuchiyama using super express. Osaka is the central city of western Japan, so traffic is convenient from Osaka to core cities in the Kansai district very much. But if you went back to the days of Akechi Mitsuhide, he needed to start Kyoto to Fukuchiyama, and he finally conquered Tanba district. Accordingly, he didn't use the route from Osaka to Fukuchiyama for his campaign. So, we choose the route from Kyoto, even though a little roundabout, because if we do, we will find the same painfulness as he felt in his difficult military advance. 

JR super expree from kyoto

From Kyoto to Fukuchiyama, the JR Sanin line is available, and it is a main artery to the Sanin district. Using Shinkansen train, even though it's a little expensive, it takes only 15 minites from Shin-osaka to Kyoto. From Kyoto, it's only 1 hour and 20 minites by super express to Fukuchiyama, so the travel time isn't so long. When you start Osaka at 8 o'clock, you will visit Fukuchiyama station at around 10 o'clock. Because of using super express, we have skipped to feel the same pain Akechi Mitsuhide felt in his campaign, haven't we. Even though, the scenery from the train is full of wonder. Soon after leaving Kyoto city, there are mountains after mountains until we arrive at Fukuchiyama station.

Leaving Arashiyama region, west of Kyoto, soon hills come to us, and a few minutes later, we will arrive at Kamekoka city. This city was the strong point of Akechi when he began to invade the Tanba district during the Sengoku period. There was the Kameyama castle, but only stone ramparts now. After we leave this city, mountains and valleys appear alternately. In this region, there are several core cities, but these are scattered widely, so we can't say which city is the center of this region.


Go up to the main tower

It takes about 20 minites by walk from the station to the castle. We can look at the scenery of the main compound from the Houkimaru park where is located on a hill west of the castle. This castle had a huge castle area, but only central area is remained and huge hill area around the main compound was cut off. In the heyday, the Houkimaru area was connected with the main compound. This castle occupied a whole hilly area in the center of Fukuchiyama city. This large hill was configured from the main compound where was the eastern end of the hill to the western area of the Houkimaru park. Most of the hill were lost, and there are many buildings now. 

Main compound

The main entrance of the Fukuchiyama castle (it's only the main compound) is at the backyard once. As mentioned previously, there is only the main compound now, and it looks like an individual castle hillock. According to the description of a paper, this castle hill has 20 meters hight, but it's difficult to feel its hight. The distance is very short from the entrance to the main castle tower.

The main tower is an interconnecting 3 storied tower plus 2 storied small tower of the northern part. Furthermore, according to the reconstruction drawing, another one story turret and a corridor existed once. But both the wooden structure of this turret and the basement were gone away now. If this turret and corridor remained, this main tower would be more unique. Nevertheless, this main tower is still so unique. 

The most important difference against other usual castle towers is the distortion of its form. The central part and the northern part are connected diagonally. And also the central part has a wide projection space. We strongly feel to solve the riddle why the builder made the Fukuchiyama castle like this.

Drawing from a book of Fukuchiyama castle

However, drawings which were the assumption of the reasoning that the main tower had been made asymmetrically from the beginning of this castle. The drawings were written for the first time 30 years ago, and there was no historical heap in the drawing, so, how much credibility in the reasoning? Although, that is true that the reconstruction builder of this castle aimed to imitate Akechi Mitsuhide's castle. We think you can trust at least its typical design was from Akechi Mitsuhide's idea.
 

Entrance of main compound

The reason why we believe this story is its proportion. Its first and second floors were reconstructed bigger and its third and fourth floors were small. The structure called the main castle tower was invented by Oda Nobunaga at Azuchi castle in 1576. By contrast, building of Fukuchiyama castle was supposed to start around 1580. Before the Azuchi castle, the tallest castle tower was only three stories, then making the third and fourth floors may be a challenge at that time. 

Main tower and small tower

To direct our attention to building-technics, laying quadrate stone-basements was difficult for the builders when Akechi Mithuhide made the castle there. And the main towers didn't have square stone-basements at that era. After that, the technique was improved, stone-basements became accurate square or rectangle, and design of superstructures changed more simple.

The basement drawing 

Viewing from the opposite side, the irregular stone-basements made the superstructures also irregular. So we think this castle's asymmetrical design fits well together the epochal consequence of the design of the castles at that time.

Small tower connected with main tower

As mentioned previously, inside of this main tower is a museum same as other reconstructed ones. Interior which was reconstructed with reinforced concrete is strongly restricted by the asymmetrical outer-form. In addition, newly made its stairs are very gentle slope and relatively big for the safety of the visitors, then the stairs widely occupied inside of it. One more thing we feel disappointed is its exhibition space. It's made with modern plastic materials, and appropriate interior is rear, which remind us something historical. Therefore, let's go back to the appearance of this main tower again. let's concentrate its appearance again. 


Concentrate the appearance

The exterior walls of the first and second stories were finished with the Shitami Itabari, wooden board sidings with battens. And the third and fourth stories adopted white stucco walls with wooden battens which weren't finished white stucco but stained. The mood of the first and second stories was similar to Kumamoto castle which made us think about the boorishness of the Sengoku period. By contrast, stained frames of the third and fourth stories look like an ancient-looking half-timber house in Europe. This design must be typical among Japanese castle-towers.

The remained castle towers mostly adopted white stucco finish or weather-board finish called Shitamiita-bari. But it's uncommon that castles were finished with the design consisted with stucco finished walls, exposed timber pillars and beams. Typical example among remained castle towers is Inuyama castle's top floor, so there are several. When it comes to Fukuchiyama castle, it uses this design in the third and fourth stories, and it's a special feature of this castle.  We can't find who decided this design, whether this feature was reproduction of the original or preference of the planner of this reconstructed main tower.

By the way, is its outer design an exact reconstruction of the Akechi Mithshide's original or not? Stone walls of the main tower were studied by the City Inquiry Commision. The result let down the planner's ambition. Speaking about the stone walls, supposedly, only a part belonging to the small tower was the original. According to the result, there was only a small tower in Akechi Mitsuhide's original castle. At the beginning of the Edo period, this castle was renovated on a large scale, and the main tower's stone walls supposed to be piled up then.

Stone walls

'Tenyouseki' or diverted stone was used for stone walls in many early modern castles. And the Fukuchiyama castle is especially famous as a number of 'Tenyouseki.' Stone which had been used as Buddist towers was diverted leaving their symbol design on the surface. Why many 'Tenyouseki' were used in this castle? Some people say, there was produced a few stones around this district. And others say, Akechi wanted to symbolise the strict ruling. Studying about his connection with the Fukuchiyama castle, it's doubtful that he devoted to the building of it. Because he ruled Fukuchiyama area only 3 years, and most of the day he was in battle fields in other district with his retainers.  

Its Shitamiita-bari wall is 30 years old but in severely faded, as its expected lifetime is said 50 years. Speaking of Shitamiita-bari walls, we remember the black one like Matsumoto castle. Shitamiita-bari wall fades quickly unless it's not re-coated every 10 years. The walls of Fukuchiyama castle are almost orange in color. So we are afraid that it needs to repaint now, but it's none of our business.  

West side (back side) of the castle

Finally, we would mention our hope that is a very hard thing to bear fruit. Like Himeji castle has Bizen-maru compound viewing spot, like Matsumoto castle has the park opposite of the main tower through its Uchi-bori, inner moats, we hope the viewing place would be made around the castle, and we could have a time to spend for a while. 

Inuyama castle

This article is short travel literature visiting Inuyama castle, the oldest national treasure castle. However, in our opinion,  this basis may be invalid. Please read our idea and judge our opinion is correct or not.

Inuyama castle

Main tower of Inuyama castle is considered as the oldest of intact Japanese castle-towers. Nevertheless, its appearance doesn't make us feel so when we look at it from a rest station in front of it. On the contrary, it has a modern and creative facade fascinating us by its symmetric beauty.

Main compound isn't so wide, it's maybe 10 minutes or so if we walk all around it. There are only the main tower, a reconstructed castle-gate, a rest station and a laboratory in it. This fact makes us feel sadness, such as the feeling that we can't find the least bit of necessary elements as a Japanese castle. That's because there aren't other compounds, and every place except for the main compound was all reconstructed. And earthen mounds, ramparts and moats were almost lost.

From the resting shop

By the way, the backyard of this castle was protected by the large Kiso river, so it was a typical castle which behind was especially defensive. These were called "Usiro-kengo-na-Shiro" in the classifying the type of Japanese castles. A reduced model of the whole site of this castle is displayed at "The Shiro-to-machi Museum" located in front of the castle area. Looking at the display, we can reconfirm behind of it was a steep cliff and a large river. Then we realized the reason of strong defensiveness, but we also find the startling fact that there was Karamete-mon or a back gate in this side. We think there's no use to produce this gate, but maybe there would be a practical importance to make this gate. 

Go to Inuyama castle

We definitely recommend using Shinkansen train for traveling from Osaka to Inuyama castle. Inuyama castle is located in Aichi prefecture, where we have visited several castles, Nagashino castle of Nagashino battle standard festival and Okazaki castle of Ieyasu-gyoretsu festival. It's only 50 minutes from Shin-osaka station to Nagoya station using Nozomi. And 30 minutes from Nagoya to Inuyama by Meitetsu limited express train. Even though you have to spend time to change trains, and you'll arrive at Inuyama city within 2 hours.



Main street to Inuyama casle

Main street to Inuyama castle is lined with shops decorated in antique. And the street is paved with hewn stone which is beautifully prepared. This area is almost vehicle-free area except for the appearance of tourists cars got lost unintentionally and shop-owners cars.

Comparing with the merchant's buildings along the main street, the castle site itself isn't fulfilled so much. The main entrance of the site is maybe "San-no-maru" compound at that time. Once, San-no-maru compound was a southern defensive facility with stone ramparts, earthen walls, moats and turrets. But now, it turned into a housing lot. And there is nothing that tells the story of those days. Anyway, the castle site at the present time starts from here.

Entrance signstone

A few steps we enter the castle site, there is a ex-dry-moat across the path of this castle. It is used as a roadway now and cars run under the path we are walking. It seems very complicated and is difficult to imagine the whole figure of this dry-moat at that time.  

Standing in front of the castle site at the present time, a shrine welcomes us. This shrine is called "Hari-tsuna" shrine having an ancient and honorable origin. Although the main route is the left of the main street, you may misunderstand that the entrance of the shrine is also that of the castle. Because there is a signboard telling "The quickest route to the main tower is here!" Withstanding temptation of the signboard, we chose the right route.   

It's not so long from the stone monument of the entrance gate to the main compound. Only main compound and a shrine siting aren't changed to thickets. We can't find ramparts or stone walls because other area has been thickly covered by thickets.

Information board

There is a ticket office besides the entrance gate of the main compound which was reconstructed few decades ago. The main compound is surrounded by stone ramparts all around.  And it consists of a relatively small independent area. We are moved the main tower standing at the opposite side of the entrance gate. To our surprise, one of remained national treasure main towers was easily appeared suddenly. 

Every national treasure main tower has strong personalities. They are not only few but also great appearance attracting us. Each one has each different characters. If we mention Inuyama castle's charm, it's a proportion of it. It generates from the relatively wide first and second floors plus relatively small third and fourth floors. We think that is outstanding other castle towers.


Inner area of castle tower

You should take your shoes off, when you enter the castle tower. So the place is prepared in front of the entrance. This space is a steel structure made of thin steel pillars and beams and it looks like a semi-cylindrical box. Covered by trees, it's not noticeable from a distance. Even so, it's a pity. Although it'll be more pity, if you add a space of old-fashioned style.  

It is said that the main tower was used only when they were besieged. It has many rooms of uncertain purpose. When we wander inside, we find several signboards described the meaning of each places. Such as, 'This is a Mushagakushi room or a space where several armed samurai were hiding.' But the primary purpose of the main tower was to be used for siege, then there would be stockyards, meeting rooms and accommodation space and so on.

Main tower

If this was a true Mushagakushi, it would be just a suitable extra space to be used for and they renovated it later. We have rare information about foreign castles, but we suppose there would be also much nonsensical space in them. Because totally reasonable planning was started in the modern age. The planning of Japanese castles would be also undefined and there would be trial and error. 

By the way, from the view point of a facility for attracting customers, a new idea to use the castle tower as a museum was born when Osaka castle main tower was reconstructed. After its success, almost reconstructed castle towers were made to be used as museums. When we consider this issue, we have another example, Hikone castle. The main tower of Hikone castle isn't used for exhibition space at all. Because there is the spacious museum beside the castle mountain.



We thought the space inside the Osaka castle tower should be made realistic. Then we could feel Samurai world inside the building more realistically. On the other hand, vacant space of the Hikone castle tower made us feel a lack of something. When we entered it, we couldn't stop thinking it was just spacious but wasteful, and we hoped something help us understanding this space. 

Now we want to mention Inuyama castle, and its inside is sitting on the fence. There are small wooden model of it, armors and war helmets, artifacts, ancient documents and so on. But these aren't undisputed treasures, and also it's dim, even if the exhibitions are real treasures, it couldn't be attractive in this situation. Consequently, the facade is excellent and we can recommend from the heart, but to tell the truth, its inside has few attractions. 

Thinking such little things, we bumped into Gozasho or the lard's room which doesn't exist in other castle towers. The reason why it is only in the Inuyama castle tower is this tower was made based two-stories building which was kind of residential one, and other two floors as a watch tower was added later. If we mention another example, famous Azuchi castle which was made by Oda Nobunaga was called that its highest floor was 'Gozasho' or his bedroom. But in Inuyama castle, its watch tower was built as an additional floor, so the lord's room was on the second floor. And the existence of an additional watch tower is one of the evidence that this castle tower was the oldest one of early modern castles. 

Basement

We go up the third and fourth floors, and there's no special additional room except for an outside walking space around the fourth floor. Inuyama castle is a typical one that has an outside walking space, and many reconstructed castles copy it and it become a big hit element of them. Other remained national treasure castle towers don't have it. The top floor is covered with a red carpet, and we feel the brightness of this room and open air all around. We also enjoy a feeling of accomplishment.   


Historical consideration

This main tower is supposed to the oldest. But the evidence isn't obvious enough. By the explanation of researchers, the Oda family built this castle in 1537 for the first time. And the central compound was made in the same period. Then, the castle tower (or its underlying building) would be the oldest.

From a bank of Nagara river

However, the building so-called main tower was invented by Oda Nobunaga in 1576. Before this invention, the facilities of castle towers were two stories building such as Ginkaku-ji temple in Kyoto. So, there were not enforced and not decorated majestically.  

That's an obvious thing that Inuyama castle was located in a strategically important point. That is why the lords of this castle changed many times in accordance with the transfer of power. The position of the governor of Japan was inherited in the order of Oda, Toyotomi, Tokugawa. And the Lord of this castle changed in the order of a retainer of Oda, Toyotomi and Tokugawa each period. 

We have one idea when this main tower was made. In our opinion, the first and the second floor of the main tower were built when Toyotomi Hidetsugu was the Lord of this castle in 1590. And the next Lord, Ishikawa Sadakiyo reconstructed it, and made the third and the fourth floor. Even so, there aren't typical documents or other evidence with us.

Then, why we considered above? Because the design of the main tower is not similar to Tokugawa families castles which were mainly built in the beginning of the Edo era. We think this design is close to the way of Toyotomi families' castles. Nevertheless, it's difficult to confirm the truth as long as it is a historical object. In our opinion, it's just the very charm of history. That's why we search next historical places again, if you agree with our opinion, let's explore the next one together.

Temples of Shogunate 3

We previously introduced several Zen temples in Kyoto which deeply associated with the shogunate established in Kyoto. And we called these temples "Temples of shogunate". In line with previous articles, we visit Daitoku-ji temple and Shokoku-ji temple this time. What is same, and what is different?

When you appreciate temples in Kyoto, we recommend a way to concentrate several temples which had a deep relationship with the shogunate. And, before your visiting a typical temple, we also recommend to check the establishment date of them. The problem is the temples were made before the shogunate or after the shogunate. Then you would understand the difference of temples in Kyoto. 

Ashikaga Yoshimitsu

Temples before the shogunate were mainly established by noble people or imperial people and some weren't belong to the Zen sect. By contrast, temples after the shogunate were mostly established by samurai class and almost all were in the Zen sect. If you already visited some temples before, how about confirming the establishment date of them? Then, you could become to find the difference between before ones and after ones. 

Hatto of Shokoku-ji

This is off topic but we missed the dragon in Tenryu-ji temple, and we met another dragon in Myosin-ji. This time, we expect Daitoku-ji's and Shokoku-ji's. Because dragons on ceilings are peculiar in the Zen temples. It's difficult to show these dragons in our blog even though it allowed to take pictures of them. Because these dragons are so big and difficult to capture the fascination by one or two pictures. 

One more thing is to visit "Tattyu." We already visited many Tattyu temples, for example Kinkaku-ji temple is a Tattyu temple of Shokoku-ji temple. When we visited Tenryu-ji temple, we didn't realize the importance of visiting Tattyu temples. So, we skipped visiting Tenryu-ji's. If you want to explore whole attractions of the Zen temples, you must visit not only a main temple but also Tattyu temples. The more visiting Tattyu temples, the better understanding its authentic identity.


Traffic in Kyoto

We visited Daitoku-ji temple first. There were 3 routes from Kyoto station to Daitoku-ji temple by buses. And using subway plus walking or using taxi were available. And we chose using buses this time. Every route had different riding time, from 35 minutes to 45 minutes. We thought that using buses was the cheapest way of visiting many sightseeing spots in Kyoto. If you check the route numbers previously, you will easily find the right buses and shorten your waiting time.

Buses are handy

One more important information, these temples we visited aren't open in the usual days. For example autumn is a special season when these temples open for general. If you miss the special open weeks, you can't enter the inside of these temples.

Daitoku-ji

Daitoku-ji temple is located in the northern district of Kyoto. This district is called as "Rakuhoku." Then, its main entrance is east end of the siting. Chokushi-mon or a gate for imperial messengers, Sanmon or an entrance gate, Butsuden or a main hall, Hatto or a lecture hall, and Kuri or a kitchen of the temple, these buildings line straight.

Main gate of Daitoku-ji

This zoning is similar to Myoshin-ji temple. This line starts at the southern end and it lines straight to the northern end. It must be the standard to build the Zen temples at that time. There are many tall trees which avoid taking pictures of them. Furthermore, there are so many Tattyu temples surrounding the main temple, Daitoku-ji. So, we thought Daitoku-ji temple was not so big but its true district is very wide. Before visiting Daitoku-ji temple, we visited specially opened Tattyu temples first.


Ryugen-in temple.

We found some fact that the main Zen temples for example Daitoku-ji was established during the beginning of the Muromachi period. And these were burned in wars around Kyoto several times, and reconstructed, and ruined again. These are kind of pattern of the transition of temples in Kyoto.

Entrance of Ryugen-in

Most Zen temples experienced these kind of changes and became today's appearance finally. Almost were reconstructed during the beginning of the Edo period. And many buildings remain until now. However, some of them had a fire at the end of the Edo period and were reconstructed during the Meiji period.

Tokonoma of Ryugen-in

Most Tattyu temples like Ryugen-in were established by rural Lords after the big war in Kyoto at the beginning of 16th century. 

Ryugen-in was built at 1502. Its patrons were Hatakeyama-clan, Lord of Noto district and Otomo-clan, Lord of Fukuoka district. Each of them was "Shugo" or governors of local governments of Ashikaga Shogunate political system. They became Shugo Daimyo or the Lords with power later. 

Hojo (main hall) , Omote-mon and the main gate are important cultural properties. However, we couldn't appreciate the appearances of them. Because we could only visit inside of them and unauthorized going out of these buildings and entering the gardens.

The front dry landscape garden

So, the impression faded a little. The attractions were only inside. For example Tokonoma, an alcove with a scroll of Daruma-daishi, the view of the front dry landscape garden from the veranda, and stylish back garden.


Oubai-in temple, southern neighbor.

This temple was established by Hashiba Hideyoshi at the end of 16th century. Hashiba was ordered by his master, Oda Nobunaga who invaded Kyoto with his army at that time. And Hashiba Hideyoshi changed his family name into Toyotomi, so, he was the same person famous Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Today's appearance of this temple is the result of reconstructions several times. Photography is prohibited except for the impressive entrance moss garden. So, we took a few pictures of the garden only.  

Entrance garden of Oubai-in

Kourin-in temple, in the next street.

To visit this temple, you move to next street to the west.
It was built by Hatakeyama clan, Shugo Daimyo of Noto district. And it became a family temple of Hatakeyama clan. However, after Hatakeyama family had been ruined, Maeda family, Lord of Kaga district replaced the position and became the patron of this temple. After that, this temple became Maeda family's.

Entrance of Kourin-in

Omote-mon, main entrance gate and Hondo, main hall are registered as important cultural properties. Like other Tattyu temples, we couldn't enter the garden and also couldn't appreciate appearances of them. Then, the garden's view from the inside of the building and tearoom were the main attractions of this temple.


Zuihou-in temple, southern neighbor of Kourin-in.

It had been built by Otomo clan who we mentioned a few sentences ago. Hojo, main hall and a few other buildings are important cultural properties. In this temple, there are many tearooms among dry landscape gardens.

Zuihou-in's garden

Daitoku-ji temple was deeply connected with Wabi-cha or tea ceremony. For example, Daitokuji-Chakai or the event of tea ceremony at Daitoku-ji was held at this temple at the final days of Toyotomi Hideyosi ruled Japan. So Tattyu temples of Daitoku-ji have many tearooms still now. And these tearooms are still used as tea ceremony event places. Tourists can't enter these places now. 


Daisen-in temple.

This temple is northern neighbor of Daitoku-ji temple. And it's aggressive to accept international tourists. Around the entrance, there were so many signboards written in English. For normal tourist, it's too commercialized to appreciate the atmosphere Zen temples world. This temple wasn't proud the relationship with Sengoku lords or Shugo Daimyo of the Muromachi period in their paper. So we supposed this temple hadn't such kind of patrons, so this temple became a little too much commercialized.

Paper of Daisen-in

Now we stood outside of Daitoku-ji's entrance which was the main temple of this siting. We could join the small tour go around Daitoku-ji. It was too difficult to understand all of what the pilot said. Joining the small tour, we could appreciate this big temple's attractions very much.

Comparing with Tenryu-ji's Hojo, Daitoku-ji's had another aspect. When we visited Tenryu-ji, we could walk around its front and back gardens. However, we couldn't enter the front garden of Daitoku-ji's Hojo, and also there wasn't a decent back garden. To restate, there were a front garden and a side garden. Its backyard was a really backstage. In its back, there were the facilities of exposure of a trick.

This Hojo was built to commemorate the 300 years after the founder's death whose name was "Shuho Myocho." His will refused to build his grave, so his disciples made his grave-like place in this Hojo.

If we didn't misunderstand the pilot's explanation, in some part of this Hojo, Shuho Myocho's wooden figure was enshrined. When we went to the backyard, space of Shuho Myocho stuck out into the backyard. Then the veranda of the Hojyo went down at this point. In addition, there was a well beside the space of Shuho Myocho.

We heard very strange story from the pilot. This well had no practical purpose, but it was for protecting Shuho Myocho's wooden head from the fire. When the fire had caught this temple, disciples would cut Shuho's head from his wooden figure. This idea meant the importance of the founder's figure we supposed, but for general people, called very strange.

Cutting head for protection from something opposed the founder made us remind of cutting a warrior's head to hide from his enemy. We thought it was a kind of mysterious story.


Daitoku-ji Dragon

After appreciating Hojo, tour went to Hatto. In Hatto, we met the dragon on the ceiling. This dragon was very similar to the dragon of Myosin-ji. But maybe something special on this temple was there.


Shokoku-ji

Shokoku-ji temple is located to the north of Kyoto Imperial Palace. The government facility of the Muromachi shogunate which was named for the place. Because around here was called Muromachi district. Then, western neighbor of Shokoku-ji was the palace of shogunate at that time. In correctly saying, there was the facility called "Hanano-gosho" or the flourish palace first, and in the eastern neighbor, Ashikaga clan made Shokoku-ji as their family temple.

In the area of Shokoku-ji, straight layout of massive buildings peculiar to Zen temples was also planned. But some of necessary for the arrangement of Zen temple buildings lacked. However, we could still feel the atmosphere in the siting of this temple.

Comparing with other temple's gardens, we think this temple's especially the front garden of Hojo and the back garden of it are superb.

Front garden of Shokoku-ji

First, the front garden is also dry landscape garden using white sand like other temple's. But its feature is the surrounding space.

Part of the front garden

Approximately 2 meters wide ditches were dug around three sides of this rectangle garden, and in this space, beautifully arranged trees are arranged. These trees of the surrounding space emboss the center space stereoscopically.

Back garden of Shokoku-ji

The back garden is also impressive. It hasn't the depth compared with the width. So, the garden planner chose the same way of designing he used at the front garden.

This garden was dug approximately 5 meters. So it's located deep under Hojo. Like overhanging stage of Kiyomizu temple, Shokoku-ji's veranda makes us feel that we are standing on top of a cliff. You should stop moving, sit down on the edge of the veranda, and appreciate as long as you can spend. It makes you calm down.

Jyotenkaku art museum

However, these impressive gardens aren't original but are supported that they were made around 18 century. Shokoku-ji is located near the central Kyoto. So this temple suffered the ravages of wars several time. Every time after the ravages, this temple was reconstructed again. And the last one was completed at the Edo period.

There is the famous art museum, Jyotenkaku art museum in this temple's siting. In this art museum, many national treasures are exhibited. In our feeling, things would be in the right places. As a matter of fact, there are famous tearooms surrounded by glass. We couldn't get the impression so much. There is a difficult problem of preservation and appreciation.


About whole Zen temples

The Kamakura period was epoch-making time for the Buddhism world in Japan. The reason was the political change in the neighboring country, China. Many excellent monks escaping from the war traveled to Japan, and they established a new teaching, Zen Buddhism.

This new religious sect was strongly supported by samurai class, and became a major force in Buddhism world. Its influence reached toward the Imperial families, they were still Establishment of this period. The Imperial families also took Zen sect under their protection. During the Kamakura period to the Muromachi period, Zen sect became to have overwhelming power. Then, many of famous big temples were Zen temples made in this period.

the Kamakura period (1192-1333)
the Muromachi period (1336-1573)

We are focusing on these Zen temples which were made in the Muromachi period. These Zen temples separated to two big groups, pro-Muromachi-shogunate and anti-Muromachi-shogunate. Because of confrontation between the shogunate and Emperor Godaigo's group. The shogunate grabbed political power after a few decades of its birth. Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, third Shogun of the shogunate enjoyed the best period, and he treated some Zen temples who were anti-shogunate. These temples almost disappeared. Daitoku-ji and Myoshin-ji were belonging to this side. By contrast, Tenryu-ji and Shokoku-ji were the representative temples built by the shogunate.


Ryogen-in

Then, how was Zen sect after its best period?
When Onin war in Kyoto began, entire district was destroyed.
After the war, reconstruction of Kyoto was started at the end of the Sengoku period. At this period, the Zen sect's position as religious leader was blown away. Typical examples were Hoko-ji and Zojo-ji.

Hoko-ji was famous as Hoko-ji accident which caused the war named the Siege of Osaka castle, and this temple was made by Toyotomi Hideyoshi at 1586. (The Sengoku period ended at 1573.) And this temple was the Tendai sect.

Zojo-ji was chosen as the Tokugawa family's temple at 1590. After that, it became a big temple. And this temple was the Jodo sect.


Shokoku-ji

At least among the Shokuhou period, the priority of the Zen sect was ended. Its turning point was not correct in the academic world we suppose. In the Sengoku period, the samurai society's master and servant relationship, and also the Zen sect's position were ruined.

the Shokuhou period (1573-1603)
the Sengoku period (1493-1590 overlapping other period and unclarified academically)

Kyoto made in the Muromachi period was destroyed by wars such as the Onin war. There are few buildings of that period. Almost of buildings registered as national treasures are located surrounding area of Kyoto. That wasn't because the builders aimed to build these places, but other precious buildings were lost by ravage of wars.

Myoshin-ji's and Daitoku-ji's wide sites weren't made in the Muromachi period correctly. These sites were reconstructed during the latter half of the Sengoku period to the beginning of the Edo period. Visiting these temples, we can imagine the cultural influence of the Zen sect.