Sight words: Cuisine

Mackerel sushi

We would like to write a experience when we visited a certain famous Zen-temple in Kyoto.

There was a Soba restaurant which building made by exposed concrete at the corner of the crossing near the main entrance of the temple. The reason we entered it was that we intended to eat at unusual place. 

Stood in front of the main door. Inside was dark. So, we were afraid that it was closed today. Opening a heavy door, we saw a lady clerk welcomed us. Oops! Soon we noticed that it would be a very expensive restaurant. Ground floor had only an entrance and stairs. She said that we could go up. We walked up the stairs.
 

Soba

 
There were 10 counter seats, 3 tables for a couple. Only 16 seats. Small shop. A group of elderly women, another group of three young women, a woman travelling alone. And the most impressive group were there. They were two gentlemen around 70 years and two middle-aged women. Supposed they were ladies of a bar and often users. The gentlemen might invite ladies to eat lunch. For strangers, this scene seemed so Kyoto, putting on airs.


Being afraid of insufficient, ordered a set of 'Soba and Mackerel sushi.' 17 dollars for each. Only at a time like today.

Beside us, a woman travelling alone was sitting. And one clerk began a conversation between who were in the know.
'Well, this soba is "Ju-wari"?'
'We are afraid we use 4 percent "Tsunagi".'
'I know. But, even though it's delicious.'

And, we were talking very common like 'It's difficult to eat because it was torn off compared to usual one.'
 

Mackerel sushi

Before soba, mackerel sushi was already served. Only two pieces. It was served importantly. It was very delicious. Fleshy mackerel was tightly resting upon vinegared rice and the top was 'Konbu.' Sorry we are not having enough skill to express the charm in English. 

After lunch, we found a small souvenir pack of mackerel sushi on a shelf of the entrance. Surprised at the price, 23 dollars each.

This shop was very useful for 70-year-old gentlemen enjoy eating with middle-aged bar ladies. Three young women were enjoying their afternoon chat which was kind of travelling abroad or purchasing expensive brand goods. Two elderly women were also enjoying their conversation even though cuisine didn't suit their age. They used gauze aprons for little children so that they didn't stain their expensive kimono. This place was the best expression of life in Kyoto. Very good experience. Please try it!

We will explain a little about "Ju-wari" and "Tsunagi".


Dengaku

The Inuyama castle is one of national treasures. And it located in Aichi prefecture. It's famous as the oldest castle main tower still remained. But it's not so big compared with other remained castles.
By the way, Inuyama district is famous as a rural cuisine, "Dengaku." When Japanese people say "Dengaku", sometimes it means a kind of festival. But this time, we will explain another one. It is one of cuisine. At the entrance of the Inuyama castle site, many shops and restaurants are located along the main road. There are several restaurants where we can eat "Dengaku." 

This time we don't intend to describe about these shops. There is a famous soba restaurant where you turn aside from the main road. When we visited this castle, we went there. But in front of that restaurant, we happened to think that it was nothing special.

Dengaku

Was any attractive cuisine around here? There was! We walked a little farther, and found a newly-created "Dengaku" restaurant. Its facade looked like a kind of Japanese style tearoom. Many female customers were on the target of this restaurant. Maybe, its interior was unified along with preference of females. 

Lunch menu was the "Tamatebako" set only. However, it's wonderful. When you open "Tamatebako", there are several dishes and "Dengaku". Moreover, other dishes, rice and Miso soup, and desert and coffee are all excellent. When you visit the Inuyama castle, visit this restaurant. We think you will be satisfied. We aren't agent provocateurs of this restaurant, though!

We will explain a little about "Dengaku" and "Tamatebako".


"Ju-wari"
Typical meaning of this word except Soba is "a unit means a hundred percent". The word "Ichi-wari" means ten percent. And, ten times ten percent equal a hundred percent. However, when you choose this word in connection with Soba, it means "Tsunagi" free.
When you use the word "Tsunagi" relating to Soba, it means "wheat flour." So, Soba made of a hundred percent "Soba flour" is called "Ju-wari soba".

"Tsunagi"
"Tsunagi" is the noun form of "Tsunagu". "Tunagu" is a verb means "connect". Typical meaning of "Tunagi" is a wear called overall. Overalls are clothes connected lower part and upper part, so, Japanese call these kind of clothes Tsunagi. 

However, when you use this word in related to Soba, it means "powder for gluing Soba flour. Specifically, it is "wheat flour". Gluten contained in wheat flour do duty as powder for gluing.

"Dengaku"
A dish called "Dengaku" is barbecued "Toufu" which is pierced with skewers and added "Misodare" sauces. As the ingredient  Toufu is used, but sometimes eggplants and other vegetables are used.


Tamatebako

"Tamatebako"
"Urasima Taro" is a famous children's story. And, "Tamatebako" appeared in this story. Almost all Japanese know the "Urasima Taro" story. The main character gets a treasure box in this story. And it is called "Tamatebako". So, "Tamatebako" reminds most Japanese people of a treasure box.

In the story, a strange incident happens when the main character opens the box. So, Japanese people also expect something surprising would happen when they "Tamatebako". The cook well understands customers' expectation, he offers the better-than-expected. 

Sight words: Iga city

The following "sight words" we found at "Iga city" might be obsolete words for young Japanese. However, these are connected with Japanese history deeply, so, no loss in your knowing them.

fig.1 A-da-u-chi

We found this word at "Kagiya-no-tsuji" in Iga city. If you are a big fan of Japan's period dramas, you already understand what we want to say.

"A-da-u-chi" means a revenge killing of an enemy. If you expected killing an enemy who killed your lord or nearest relations, it had been permitted in the samurai society during the Edo period. And, it was banned after the end of the samurai society (in 1873).

In the old time, revenge killings were also accepted not only in Japan but also among other foreign countries. On the contrary, modern people can't accept this custom that typical murders are admitted legally. So, no nation admits the revenge murder any more.

Adauchi battle happened here

Furthermore, knowing a concept of "Joi-uchi" is important to understand Adauchi of the Edo period. "Joi-uchi" meant Adauchi ordered by his lord. In the samurai society, the lord's order was absolute, because their society was based on the lord and vassal relationship.

One more thing, sense of value in doing Adauchi was widely accepted among the whole society at that time. And even a little before now, ordinary Japanese people considered the sense of Adauchi acceptable. Even though they also understood it was a murder and illegal. 

We want to introduce one typical Adauchi story named "Iga-goe-no-Adauchi." It registered as the three famous Adauchi in Japan. From this naming, we can understand Adauchi was considered as a virtue until a certain age.   

Small museum is there

Then, we investigate the whole story according to a time table. First incident happened around 1630. 1630 was the year of 15 years after the Osaka-no-jin war, when the Toyotomi family had died out, and the Tokugawa shogunate had begun to rule Japan.

One murder case happened at Okayama city where was far from Iga. The murderer was certain Kawai (19) and the victim was certain Watanabe (17). Both of them were the Okayama-han's retainers. And the cause of the murder was a triffing fight. The lord of Okayama-han got upset because his favorite retainer had killed. So, he ordered Watanabe's elder brother to murder certain Kawai as Adauchi. When Adauchi was ordered by the lord, it became Joi-uchi, kind of obligation. It is assuredly that the person who commanded Joi-uchi had to complete the task as long as he lived. 

He also prohibited to return home until completion of the Joi-uchi. That was a rule of Joi-uchi. (Even this single custom, the Edo era was an outrageous period.) He would be mournful about his brother's death, but whether he truly hoped the Adauchi or not?

We explain what happened more detailedly. His lord ordered him the Joi-uchi of his brother 2 years after the incident. There were 2 years after the murder of his younger brother. And after 2 more years, he searched for Kawai, and he finally found the revenge in Iga district.  
 
4 people belonging his side and 11 people opposite side dueled at Kagiya-no-tsuji in Iga district. His side won and he killed Kawai as the revenge. This incident was called "Iga-goe-no-Adauchi" or "the duel at Kagiya-no-tsuji".

Japan's period dramas based on this incident were made so many times a little before now. If you compare with western period dramas, you might mention "Gunfight at O.K. Corral" as a contrast.


fig.2 Ha-i-se-i

This word is written in a signboard in front of the octagon building in a corner of Iga-ueno castle. This unique building is called "Hai-sei-den."

"Hai-sei" means a Haiku poetry master. More particularly, this newly coined word points Matsuo Basho who made Haiku poetry for the first time. 

He was born in Iga at 1644,approximately 380 years ago. He learned "Haikai" poetry and became a master of "Haikai" with many apprentices. And he made a group of Haikai poetry. (However, Haikai poetry isn't famous nowadays.)


As a matter of fact, "Haiku" poetry was made by Masaoka Shiki at the Meiji era, approximately 150 years ago. So, Matsuo Basho didn't make "Haiku" exactly. Masaoka Shiki cut out the beginning part of "Haikai" and claimed that it was very impressive. On the contrary, Batsuo's poetries already had the essence in them.

Minomushi-an

Many apprentices of Matsuo Basyo lived in Iga-ueno city, because he lived in his younger days and had many acquaintances there. There is a famous survived villa which made by one of his apprentices in the downtown. It's named "Minomushi-an" or the bagworm villa. Strange name!

Why a professional Haikai group was made in Iga district?
It's because there was a genius person of Haikai, Matsuo Basho. Then, why he was born there? It's difficult to find the answer. 

Learning about his life, we found one thing that he had learned Haikai poetry with strong will and had dedicated his life to Haikai poetry. It would be the answer why Matsuo Basho became famous.


fig.3 I-ga-ya-ki

In mountainous district, north of Iga city, some "Iga-yaki" factories exist. Iga city and "Shigaraki" town near Kouka city are famous potteries producing areas.

The word "Yaki" is used to describe some foods barbecued usually. But, in this case, the word "Yaki" means potteries.

Iga-yai was born approximately 1300 years ago. At the end of the Sengoku era, it became famous again, because they were used for tea ceremonies. And it revivaled again recently.

Factory of Pottery

Villege of Pottery

The mountains surround Iga basin have high quality potter's clay. What's more it was relatively close to big cities, Kyoto and Nara. Famous potter's works are expensive to buy. However, we hope to get them in the future.