Temples of Shogunate 3
When you appreciate temples in Kyoto, we recommend a way to concentrate several temples which had a deep relationship with the shogunate. And, before your visiting a typical temple, we also recommend to check the establishment date of them. The problem is the temples were made before the shogunate or after the shogunate. Then you would understand the difference of temples in Kyoto.
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| Ashikaga Yoshimitsu |
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| Hatto of Shokoku-ji |
This is off topic but we missed the dragon in Tenryu-ji temple, and we met another dragon in Myosin-ji. This time, we expect Daitoku-ji's and Shokoku-ji's. Because dragons on ceilings are peculiar in the Zen temples. It's difficult to show these dragons in our blog even though it allowed to take pictures of them. Because these dragons are so big and difficult to capture the fascination by one or two pictures.
One more thing is to visit "Tattyu." We already visited many Tattyu temples, for example Kinkaku-ji temple is a Tattyu temple of Shokoku-ji temple. When we visited Tenryu-ji temple, we didn't realize the importance of visiting Tattyu temples. So, we skipped visiting Tenryu-ji's. If you want to explore whole attractions of the Zen temples, you must visit not only a main temple but also Tattyu temples. The more visiting Tattyu temples, the better understanding its authentic identity.
Traffic in Kyoto
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| Buses are handy |
Daitoku-ji
Daitoku-ji temple is located in the northern district of Kyoto. This district is called as "Rakuhoku." Then, its main entrance is east end of the siting. Chokushi-mon or a gate for imperial messengers, Sanmon or an entrance gate, Butsuden or a main hall, Hatto or a lecture hall, and Kuri or a kitchen of the temple, these buildings line straight.
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| Main gate of Daitoku-ji |
This zoning is similar to Myoshin-ji temple. This line starts at the southern end and it lines straight to the northern end. It must be the standard to build the Zen temples at that time. There are many tall trees which avoid taking pictures of them. Furthermore, there are so many Tattyu temples surrounding the main temple, Daitoku-ji. So, we thought Daitoku-ji temple was not so big but its true district is very wide. Before visiting Daitoku-ji temple, we visited specially opened Tattyu temples first.
Ryugen-in temple.
We found some fact that the main Zen temples for example Daitoku-ji was established during the beginning of the Muromachi period. And these were burned in wars around Kyoto several times, and reconstructed, and ruined again. These are kind of pattern of the transition of temples in Kyoto.
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| Entrance of Ryugen-in |
Most Zen temples experienced these kind of changes and became today's appearance finally. Almost were reconstructed during the beginning of the Edo period. And many buildings remain until now. However, some of them had a fire at the end of the Edo period and were reconstructed during the Meiji period.
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| Tokonoma of Ryugen-in |
Most Tattyu temples like Ryugen-in were established by rural Lords after the big war in Kyoto at the beginning of 16th century.
Ryugen-in was built at 1502. Its patrons were Hatakeyama-clan, Lord of Noto district and Otomo-clan, Lord of Fukuoka district. Each of them was "Shugo" or governors of local governments of Ashikaga Shogunate political system. They became Shugo Daimyo or the Lords with power later.
Hojo (main hall) , Omote-mon and the main gate are important cultural properties. However, we couldn't appreciate the appearances of them. Because we could only visit inside of them and unauthorized going out of these buildings and entering the gardens.
So, the impression faded a little. The attractions were only inside. For example Tokonoma, an alcove with a scroll of Daruma-daishi, the view of the front dry landscape garden from the veranda, and stylish back garden.
Oubai-in temple, southern neighbor.
This temple was established by Hashiba Hideyoshi at the end of 16th century. Hashiba was ordered by his master, Oda Nobunaga who invaded Kyoto with his army at that time. And Hashiba Hideyoshi changed his family name into Toyotomi, so, he was the same person famous Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
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| The front dry landscape garden |
So, the impression faded a little. The attractions were only inside. For example Tokonoma, an alcove with a scroll of Daruma-daishi, the view of the front dry landscape garden from the veranda, and stylish back garden.
Oubai-in temple, southern neighbor.
This temple was established by Hashiba Hideyoshi at the end of 16th century. Hashiba was ordered by his master, Oda Nobunaga who invaded Kyoto with his army at that time. And Hashiba Hideyoshi changed his family name into Toyotomi, so, he was the same person famous Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
Today's appearance of this temple is the result of reconstructions several times. Photography is prohibited except for the impressive entrance moss garden. So, we took a few pictures of the garden only.
Kourin-in temple, in the next street.
To visit this temple, you move to next street to the west.
It was built by Hatakeyama clan, Shugo Daimyo of Noto district. And it became a family temple of Hatakeyama clan. However, after Hatakeyama family had been ruined, Maeda family, Lord of Kaga district replaced the position and became the patron of this temple. After that, this temple became Maeda family's.
Omote-mon, main entrance gate and Hondo, main hall are registered as important cultural properties. Like other Tattyu temples, we couldn't enter the garden and also couldn't appreciate appearances of them. Then, the garden's view from the inside of the building and tearoom were the main attractions of this temple.
Zuihou-in temple, southern neighbor of Kourin-in.
It had been built by Otomo clan who we mentioned a few sentences ago. Hojo, main hall and a few other buildings are important cultural properties. In this temple, there are many tearooms among dry landscape gardens.
Daitoku-ji temple was deeply connected with Wabi-cha or tea ceremony. For example, Daitokuji-Chakai or the event of tea ceremony at Daitoku-ji was held at this temple at the final days of Toyotomi Hideyosi ruled Japan. So Tattyu temples of Daitoku-ji have many tearooms still now. And these tearooms are still used as tea ceremony event places. Tourists can't enter these places now.
Daisen-in temple.
This temple is northern neighbor of Daitoku-ji temple. And it's aggressive to accept international tourists. Around the entrance, there were so many signboards written in English. For normal tourist, it's too commercialized to appreciate the atmosphere Zen temples world. This temple wasn't proud the relationship with Sengoku lords or Shugo Daimyo of the Muromachi period in their paper. So we supposed this temple hadn't such kind of patrons, so this temple became a little too much commercialized.
Now we stood outside of Daitoku-ji's entrance which was the main temple of this siting. We could join the small tour go around Daitoku-ji. It was too difficult to understand all of what the pilot said. Joining the small tour, we could appreciate this big temple's attractions very much.
Comparing with Tenryu-ji's Hojo, Daitoku-ji's had another aspect. When we visited Tenryu-ji, we could walk around its front and back gardens. However, we couldn't enter the front garden of Daitoku-ji's Hojo, and also there wasn't a decent back garden. To restate, there were a front garden and a side garden. Its backyard was a really backstage. In its back, there were the facilities of exposure of a trick.
This Hojo was built to commemorate the 300 years after the founder's death whose name was "Shuho Myocho." His will refused to build his grave, so his disciples made his grave-like place in this Hojo.
If we didn't misunderstand the pilot's explanation, in some part of this Hojo, Shuho Myocho's wooden figure was enshrined. When we went to the backyard, space of Shuho Myocho stuck out into the backyard. Then the veranda of the Hojyo went down at this point. In addition, there was a well beside the space of Shuho Myocho.
We heard very strange story from the pilot. This well had no practical purpose, but it was for protecting Shuho Myocho's wooden head from the fire. When the fire had caught this temple, disciples would cut Shuho's head from his wooden figure. This idea meant the importance of the founder's figure we supposed, but for general people, called very strange.
Cutting head for protection from something opposed the founder made us remind of cutting a warrior's head to hide from his enemy. We thought it was a kind of mysterious story.
After appreciating Hojo, tour went to Hatto. In Hatto, we met the dragon on the ceiling. This dragon was very similar to the dragon of Myosin-ji. But maybe something special on this temple was there.
Shokoku-ji
Shokoku-ji temple is located to the north of Kyoto Imperial Palace. The government facility of the Muromachi shogunate which was named for the place. Because around here was called Muromachi district. Then, western neighbor of Shokoku-ji was the palace of shogunate at that time. In correctly saying, there was the facility called "Hanano-gosho" or the flourish palace first, and in the eastern neighbor, Ashikaga clan made Shokoku-ji as their family temple.
In the area of Shokoku-ji, straight layout of massive buildings peculiar to Zen temples was also planned. But some of necessary for the arrangement of Zen temple buildings lacked. However, we could still feel the atmosphere in the siting of this temple.
Comparing with other temple's gardens, we think this temple's especially the front garden of Hojo and the back garden of it are superb.
First, the front garden is also dry landscape garden using white sand like other temple's. But its feature is the surrounding space.
Approximately 2 meters wide ditches were dug around three sides of this rectangle garden, and in this space, beautifully arranged trees are arranged. These trees of the surrounding space emboss the center space stereoscopically.
The back garden is also impressive. It hasn't the depth compared with the width. So, the garden planner chose the same way of designing he used at the front garden.
This garden was dug approximately 5 meters. So it's located deep under Hojo. Like overhanging stage of Kiyomizu temple, Shokoku-ji's veranda makes us feel that we are standing on top of a cliff. You should stop moving, sit down on the edge of the veranda, and appreciate as long as you can spend. It makes you calm down.
However, these impressive gardens aren't original but are supported that they were made around 18 century. Shokoku-ji is located near the central Kyoto. So this temple suffered the ravages of wars several time. Every time after the ravages, this temple was reconstructed again. And the last one was completed at the Edo period.
There is the famous art museum, Jyotenkaku art museum in this temple's siting. In this art museum, many national treasures are exhibited. In our feeling, things would be in the right places. As a matter of fact, there are famous tearooms surrounded by glass. We couldn't get the impression so much. There is a difficult problem of preservation and appreciation.
About whole Zen temples
The Kamakura period was epoch-making time for the Buddhism world in Japan. The reason was the political change in the neighboring country, China. Many excellent monks escaping from the war traveled to Japan, and they established a new teaching, Zen Buddhism.
This new religious sect was strongly supported by samurai class, and became a major force in Buddhism world. Its influence reached toward the Imperial families, they were still Establishment of this period. The Imperial families also took Zen sect under their protection. During the Kamakura period to the Muromachi period, Zen sect became to have overwhelming power. Then, many of famous big temples were Zen temples made in this period.
the Kamakura period (1192-1333)
the Muromachi period (1336-1573)
We are focusing on these Zen temples which were made in the Muromachi period. These Zen temples separated to two big groups, pro-Muromachi-shogunate and anti-Muromachi-shogunate. Because of confrontation between the shogunate and Emperor Godaigo's group. The shogunate grabbed political power after a few decades of its birth. Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, third Shogun of the shogunate enjoyed the best period, and he treated some Zen temples who were anti-shogunate. These temples almost disappeared. Daitoku-ji and Myoshin-ji were belonging to this side. By contrast, Tenryu-ji and Shokoku-ji were the representative temples built by the shogunate.
Then, how was Zen sect after its best period?
When Onin war in Kyoto began, entire district was destroyed.
After the war, reconstruction of Kyoto was started at the end of the Sengoku period. At this period, the Zen sect's position as religious leader was blown away. Typical examples were Hoko-ji and Zojo-ji.
Hoko-ji was famous as Hoko-ji accident which caused the war named the Siege of Osaka castle, and this temple was made by Toyotomi Hideyoshi at 1586. (The Sengoku period ended at 1573.) And this temple was the Tendai sect.
Zojo-ji was chosen as the Tokugawa family's temple at 1590. After that, it became a big temple. And this temple was the Jodo sect.
At least among the Shokuhou period, the priority of the Zen sect was ended. Its turning point was not correct in the academic world we suppose. In the Sengoku period, the samurai society's master and servant relationship, and also the Zen sect's position were ruined.
the Shokuhou period (1573-1603)
the Sengoku period (1493-1590 overlapping other period and unclarified academically)
Kyoto made in the Muromachi period was destroyed by wars such as the Onin war. There are few buildings of that period. Almost of buildings registered as national treasures are located surrounding area of Kyoto. That wasn't because the builders aimed to build these places, but other precious buildings were lost by ravage of wars.
Myoshin-ji's and Daitoku-ji's wide sites weren't made in the Muromachi period correctly. These sites were reconstructed during the latter half of the Sengoku period to the beginning of the Edo period. Visiting these temples, we can imagine the cultural influence of the Zen sect.
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| Entrance garden of Oubai-in |
Kourin-in temple, in the next street.
To visit this temple, you move to next street to the west.
It was built by Hatakeyama clan, Shugo Daimyo of Noto district. And it became a family temple of Hatakeyama clan. However, after Hatakeyama family had been ruined, Maeda family, Lord of Kaga district replaced the position and became the patron of this temple. After that, this temple became Maeda family's.
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| Entrance of Kourin-in |
Omote-mon, main entrance gate and Hondo, main hall are registered as important cultural properties. Like other Tattyu temples, we couldn't enter the garden and also couldn't appreciate appearances of them. Then, the garden's view from the inside of the building and tearoom were the main attractions of this temple.
Zuihou-in temple, southern neighbor of Kourin-in.
It had been built by Otomo clan who we mentioned a few sentences ago. Hojo, main hall and a few other buildings are important cultural properties. In this temple, there are many tearooms among dry landscape gardens.
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| Zuihou-in's garden |
Daitoku-ji temple was deeply connected with Wabi-cha or tea ceremony. For example, Daitokuji-Chakai or the event of tea ceremony at Daitoku-ji was held at this temple at the final days of Toyotomi Hideyosi ruled Japan. So Tattyu temples of Daitoku-ji have many tearooms still now. And these tearooms are still used as tea ceremony event places. Tourists can't enter these places now.
Daisen-in temple.
This temple is northern neighbor of Daitoku-ji temple. And it's aggressive to accept international tourists. Around the entrance, there were so many signboards written in English. For normal tourist, it's too commercialized to appreciate the atmosphere Zen temples world. This temple wasn't proud the relationship with Sengoku lords or Shugo Daimyo of the Muromachi period in their paper. So we supposed this temple hadn't such kind of patrons, so this temple became a little too much commercialized.
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| Paper of Daisen-in |
Now we stood outside of Daitoku-ji's entrance which was the main temple of this siting. We could join the small tour go around Daitoku-ji. It was too difficult to understand all of what the pilot said. Joining the small tour, we could appreciate this big temple's attractions very much.
Comparing with Tenryu-ji's Hojo, Daitoku-ji's had another aspect. When we visited Tenryu-ji, we could walk around its front and back gardens. However, we couldn't enter the front garden of Daitoku-ji's Hojo, and also there wasn't a decent back garden. To restate, there were a front garden and a side garden. Its backyard was a really backstage. In its back, there were the facilities of exposure of a trick.
This Hojo was built to commemorate the 300 years after the founder's death whose name was "Shuho Myocho." His will refused to build his grave, so his disciples made his grave-like place in this Hojo.
If we didn't misunderstand the pilot's explanation, in some part of this Hojo, Shuho Myocho's wooden figure was enshrined. When we went to the backyard, space of Shuho Myocho stuck out into the backyard. Then the veranda of the Hojyo went down at this point. In addition, there was a well beside the space of Shuho Myocho.
We heard very strange story from the pilot. This well had no practical purpose, but it was for protecting Shuho Myocho's wooden head from the fire. When the fire had caught this temple, disciples would cut Shuho's head from his wooden figure. This idea meant the importance of the founder's figure we supposed, but for general people, called very strange.
Cutting head for protection from something opposed the founder made us remind of cutting a warrior's head to hide from his enemy. We thought it was a kind of mysterious story.
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| Daitoku-ji Dragon |
After appreciating Hojo, tour went to Hatto. In Hatto, we met the dragon on the ceiling. This dragon was very similar to the dragon of Myosin-ji. But maybe something special on this temple was there.
Shokoku-ji
Shokoku-ji temple is located to the north of Kyoto Imperial Palace. The government facility of the Muromachi shogunate which was named for the place. Because around here was called Muromachi district. Then, western neighbor of Shokoku-ji was the palace of shogunate at that time. In correctly saying, there was the facility called "Hanano-gosho" or the flourish palace first, and in the eastern neighbor, Ashikaga clan made Shokoku-ji as their family temple.
In the area of Shokoku-ji, straight layout of massive buildings peculiar to Zen temples was also planned. But some of necessary for the arrangement of Zen temple buildings lacked. However, we could still feel the atmosphere in the siting of this temple.
Comparing with other temple's gardens, we think this temple's especially the front garden of Hojo and the back garden of it are superb.
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| Front garden of Shokoku-ji |
First, the front garden is also dry landscape garden using white sand like other temple's. But its feature is the surrounding space.
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| Part of the front garden |
Approximately 2 meters wide ditches were dug around three sides of this rectangle garden, and in this space, beautifully arranged trees are arranged. These trees of the surrounding space emboss the center space stereoscopically.
 |
| Back garden of Shokoku-ji |
The back garden is also impressive. It hasn't the depth compared with the width. So, the garden planner chose the same way of designing he used at the front garden.
This garden was dug approximately 5 meters. So it's located deep under Hojo. Like overhanging stage of Kiyomizu temple, Shokoku-ji's veranda makes us feel that we are standing on top of a cliff. You should stop moving, sit down on the edge of the veranda, and appreciate as long as you can spend. It makes you calm down.
 |
| Jyotenkaku art museum |
There is the famous art museum, Jyotenkaku art museum in this temple's siting. In this art museum, many national treasures are exhibited. In our feeling, things would be in the right places. As a matter of fact, there are famous tearooms surrounded by glass. We couldn't get the impression so much. There is a difficult problem of preservation and appreciation.
About whole Zen temples
The Kamakura period was epoch-making time for the Buddhism world in Japan. The reason was the political change in the neighboring country, China. Many excellent monks escaping from the war traveled to Japan, and they established a new teaching, Zen Buddhism.
This new religious sect was strongly supported by samurai class, and became a major force in Buddhism world. Its influence reached toward the Imperial families, they were still Establishment of this period. The Imperial families also took Zen sect under their protection. During the Kamakura period to the Muromachi period, Zen sect became to have overwhelming power. Then, many of famous big temples were Zen temples made in this period.
the Kamakura period (1192-1333)
the Muromachi period (1336-1573)
We are focusing on these Zen temples which were made in the Muromachi period. These Zen temples separated to two big groups, pro-Muromachi-shogunate and anti-Muromachi-shogunate. Because of confrontation between the shogunate and Emperor Godaigo's group. The shogunate grabbed political power after a few decades of its birth. Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, third Shogun of the shogunate enjoyed the best period, and he treated some Zen temples who were anti-shogunate. These temples almost disappeared. Daitoku-ji and Myoshin-ji were belonging to this side. By contrast, Tenryu-ji and Shokoku-ji were the representative temples built by the shogunate.
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| Ryogen-in |
Then, how was Zen sect after its best period?
When Onin war in Kyoto began, entire district was destroyed.
After the war, reconstruction of Kyoto was started at the end of the Sengoku period. At this period, the Zen sect's position as religious leader was blown away. Typical examples were Hoko-ji and Zojo-ji.
Hoko-ji was famous as Hoko-ji accident which caused the war named the Siege of Osaka castle, and this temple was made by Toyotomi Hideyoshi at 1586. (The Sengoku period ended at 1573.) And this temple was the Tendai sect.
Zojo-ji was chosen as the Tokugawa family's temple at 1590. After that, it became a big temple. And this temple was the Jodo sect.
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| Shokoku-ji |
At least among the Shokuhou period, the priority of the Zen sect was ended. Its turning point was not correct in the academic world we suppose. In the Sengoku period, the samurai society's master and servant relationship, and also the Zen sect's position were ruined.
the Shokuhou period (1573-1603)
the Sengoku period (1493-1590 overlapping other period and unclarified academically)
Kyoto made in the Muromachi period was destroyed by wars such as the Onin war. There are few buildings of that period. Almost of buildings registered as national treasures are located surrounding area of Kyoto. That wasn't because the builders aimed to build these places, but other precious buildings were lost by ravage of wars.
Myoshin-ji's and Daitoku-ji's wide sites weren't made in the Muromachi period correctly. These sites were reconstructed during the latter half of the Sengoku period to the beginning of the Edo period. Visiting these temples, we can imagine the cultural influence of the Zen sect.
