Farmer's House in the Edo period

We are going to pay a visit to an old farmer's house of Japan. These houses are not so long-lasting because of less-than-wealthy situation in their lifetime. So, it's quite difficult to find them aged hundreds years.  

We find the old farmer's house which owned by a village headman named Suwa family. It's still existing in Moriyama city in the east of Kyoto city. This was supposed to be built during the latter half of the Edo period. But there is no secure information when it was made, so, it's difficult to upstream the building age. If we can look around all over Japan, remained houses of village headman's would be very few now. And, even if they remained, their condition were very bad. So, this old farmer's house is quite rare exception. To tell the truth, it was renovated because of tourism boom nowadays. Its thatch roof was replaced brand new one and shining brightly.

 Japanese feudal class system was completed at the beginning of the Edo era (soon after the chaotic time called the Sengoku era). Farmer class became the second highest class in the class system. However, they were the exploiteds and half of their agricultural products were got mugged by the exploiting classes. So, they lived a hard time in their time and their houses were made with cheap materials.

Looking inside of the hierarchy of Japanese farmers, they were also separated by several classes. The upper class farmers gained almost products of their villagers produced. So, they amassed enough wealth to build imposing their mansions. Remained farmer's houses now we can visit are owned by such successors of these families or donated from them. 


Where is the Suwa-family mansion?

Moriyama city is located in the east of Kyoto city. Once this city was the first station town with many inns belonged in the Tokaido road (from Kyoto to Edo). Suwa-family mansion was in a village several kilometers apart from the station town. In the Edo period, people didn't have freedom of choosing their living place. Farmers should live in farmers villages, and townspeople should stay in the town. And also they were prohibited to exchange each other.

First of all, let's confirm the way to visit there. There is a JR line from Osaka to Moriyama city. Rapid train takes you to the Moriyama city station in only 1 hour. Nearby downtown of this city, you can walk to a tasteful street where was a station town in the Edo period, and it's a tourist spot in this city.

Rental bicycle station Map (From the Internet)

From the station, your transportation devices are narrowed down to your own foot or rental bicycles. When you rent them, you have to adduce your identification. So, we think it's a little troublesome for international tourists. If you try to walk there, it will take about an hour, and you have to walk in residential areas and farming land. 'Google map' or other similar devices would be necessary to get the picture where you are. 

Neighborhood of the Suwa-family mansion is surrounded by many newly-made houses and relatively-aged houses. Furthermore, streets to the destination are quite narrow, so, these factors make us nervous. The site has wide vacant front-yard, and we can easily find the mansion. However, entire space is relatively small as a sightseeing spot. In the neighborhood, there are 2 big temples.
 
These were belonging to Honganji sect which was a bellicose group. This sect's followers fought against Oda Nobunaga, famous Sengoku Lord during the Sengoku era. However, these 2 temples didn't fight against the Oda army, and this area didn't become a battle field. This village is surrounded by rice fields in every direction. It's still quiet and relatively unchanged from the Edo period until now.


Inside of the Suwa-family mansion

In front of this mansion, a narrow waterway sticks together, and using it residents gathered rice by reverboats which was collected as a tax. However, there is not enough water in this waterway, so, we have a little difficult to imagine the life of the Edo period. Front space of this site is wide and vacant, but there were earthen walls and accessory buildings which were taken off in uncertain timing. So, the main building couldn't look at from the outside of this site. On the contrary, brand new thatch roof and yellowish earthen wall of gorgeous building are shining now.

Map (From the Internet)

Remains are main mansion accompanied by a store house and a detached tea-house. If this tourist spot becomes popular, lost other buildings would be reconstructed. Then, we could imagine view of the big-picture of it. Unfortunately, we have to fill up a vacancy with imagination.

Facade

Garden side

From the main gate, there is a big entrance in the right-hand of us. Back of the entrance is 'Shoin' or a study room, and this room was used when they met with bureaucrats of the ruler. We can't enter this entrance and go a little deeper. Then, there is a small entrance to a wide earth-floor room where was a kitchen, a stock room and etc. and it was a main entrance for residents. Inside of this room is empty now, and ticket counter and several panels are exhibited. We can enter the inner room from here. There are a dozen of Tatami room and connected to 'Shoin'.

Tea-house

Far side of this mansion is faced with a Japanese style garden which includes pond connected with a waterway. When the water level is enough, riverboat can enter into the pond. We suppose it was a kind of contrivance used a lot of wealth. Furthermore, at a corner of this garden, there is a tea-house replaced from some temple. This whole garden is wide, but if you compare it with residences of Daimyo families, it makes us feel of imagination that it huddles up in a narrow space.

By the way, we examined what is great about this mansion. It looks relatively big, then, if you compare with other mansions of samurai at that time, it's big or not? We find many drawings of samurai's houses. It's a book of research on samurai's houses in the Edo period. The Suwa-family mansion was one second or one third of small size Lords or high class retainers of big size Lords. However, at least double size of middle class samurai's houses it was.

Japanese style gardens were not made among the middle class samurai's residential sitings. And also tea-houses were very special for private mansions, and only high class samurai families could build them. All in all, this family lived in a wide mansion than middle class samurai families and enjoyed more abundant life. According to a paper, their ancestors were supposed to be a samurai, but it was not certain. That's because this mansion is quite luxury to be made by a farmer class family.

If you want to get more about farmer's house, please visit this article. 'Old farmer's house in Gifu Pref.' 

Tea master in early Edo period

Teahouse

It's called Shomoku-ro. And it reproduces the famous teahouse which was made at a corner of the Fushimi magistrate's office in Kyoto in the beginning of the Edo period.    

If you ask what were the typical buildings in the Sengoku period, we will refer to modern castles. However, there were other masterpieces, teahouses. Teahouses were very closely related to the spiritual world of tea-masters. Therefore, tea-masters invented and developed teahouses as their own idea how they believed the tea ceremony.
　

At the beginning, it was a meeting room for a tea-master when he faced with Samurai people. In this period, many teahouses were made as individual houses and adjunct rooms of their residences. But, soon after, Samurai people themselves came to be tea-masters. Thus, they made many teahouses in their residences and in the castles they owned.

The original was planned by Kobori Ensyu. He was belonged Samurai class and one of famous tea-masters in the beginning of the Edo period. So, this teahouse is belonging to the latter according to the explanation above. Kobori was a Fushimi magistrate from his late 40th to his closing years, so this office building was also his residence. As a tea-master, he made many teahouses in it. The original residence was ruined some time ago. To reconstruct this teahouse, planning was duplicated in reference to old drawings of the original.


Going to the Shomoku-ro

The Shomoku-ro is in a corner of a museum at Shimada city Shizuoka Prefecture. This museum exhibits several displays connected with tea, including tea ceremony room all over the world. The Shomoku-ro is not only a display of a Japanese tea ceremony room but also the special feature of this museum.

When this museum was made, it was called 'Ocha-no-sato museum' or 'museum at a home of Japanese tea'. And it was renovated dramatically, and changed its name to 'Fuji-no-kuni cha-no-miyako museum' recently. 'Fuji' means Mt. Fuji, and because you can see Mt. Fuji from this museum, they add an appealing point in its name.

There are 3 buildings which are a museum tower, a commercial facility, and a teahouse 'Shomoku-ro'. And around the teahouse, wide and beautiful Japanese landscape garden is surrounded. We can look at a senary of the Edo period from the tea ceremony room in it. 
　

When you go to Shimada city, you go to the Kakegawa station using a super express 'Kodama', and move to the Kanaya station by JR line. From this station, you can use a taxi because local buses are not convenient and the museum is located long distance to walk from it. We will mention one example below.

When we start Shin-osaka at 8, we can arrive at Kakegawa station at past 10. Then move to Kanaya station, and this time zone we can find local buses (community buses). We can enter the museum at past 11. However, this example is one of the best cases. We think you need more time usually. Furthermore, transferring is very complicated in this case. You need to prepare carefully.


Inside the teahouse

To tell the truth, the Shomoku-ro is a jointed building of 2 famous room which was made by Kobori Enshu. From the entrance of this building is reproduced study room called 'Takimoto-bo'. And an adjunctive tearoom called 'Kouhou-kyo' is on a pond. Across a hallway, a reproduced guest room of the Fushimi magistrate's office and an adjunctive small tearoom. Accordingly, outside view of this building is a little strange because of hybridity of 2 types of teahouses.

On the other hand, inside of this building is strictly reconstructed in traditional way. We need to pay 500 yen (1 adult) for an admission fee in front of the entrance. We can visit 'Takimoto-bo' study room and 'Kouhou-kyo' tearoom with no extra fee. But if you want to enter the deeper area, you need to pay additional fee for attending an entry-level tea ceremony.

The 'Takinoto-bo' study room

The 'Kouhou-kyo' tearoom

Considering for a while, we decided to attend the tea ceremony. Because we studied the guest room of the Fushimi magistrate's office which had named 'Kusari-no-ma'. According to our study, this room was one of masterpiece tearoom by Kobori Enshu. Furthermore, if we add an extra reason, we can taste Matcha and Japanese confectionery in this traditional tearoom.

The 'Kusari-no-ma' tearoom

We have tried to taste Matcha in many historical facilities, but this place is really awesome. Tea-master woman wearing Kimono is preparing Matcha in front of us. An iron teakettle filled up with hot water and other traditional tea ceremony tools is arranged. In our front, there is a wide window with paper sliding screens. We can look at Mt. Fuji in the midst of an opened window. What luxury moment we spend!

Next to the Kusari-no-ma, there is another small tearoom named 'Yuken-an'. This room has beautifully arranged many windows here and there in it. There came a tea-master woman who doubled as the guide of this building, she explained interesting topics concerned with it. According to her explanation, Kobori Enshu invited his guests to this small tearoom first, and after that, he made them move into the Kusari-no-ma.

The 'Yuken-an' tearoom

Inside the 'Yuken-an'

The original Fushimi magistrate's office was ruined many time ago, and there are no remains. Kobori Enshu who held many tea ceremonys there was also one of the successors of the tea ceremony. After former successor named Furuta Oribe, Kobori Enshu played many active roles as well as his master. He connected with planning of gardens in the early Edo period and made many teahouses which were said masterpieces. There are his gardens (original) and teahouses (reconstructed) in Kyoto. We hope we can visit these places in the future.

Samurai residence

Samurai governed Japan during the Sengoku period and the Edo period. Then, what kind of residences they lived in? We find the remains which might be one of the palaces of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of the most famous Sengoku Lords. This residence was relocated from Kyoto to Yokohama. We visited Yokohama and investigated with our own eyes. 



Part of Rinshunkaku residence

The Sankei-en garden

The place is the Sankei-en garden. And it's a Japanese landscape style garden. In this garden, 17 historical remains are scattered in the large estate. These were relocated in a place full of nature and in harmony with the garden. We want to introduce a famous residence made by the Sukiya style and it's called 'Rinshunkaku.' This residence consists of connected 3 Sukiya style buildings and these are like 3 flying goose and very beautiful. We call this Gankou-gata pattern or lined flying goose pattern.

At the beginning, this building was made in Osaka city, and which was owned by a wealthy merchant. And the owner of this garden bought it, and brought from Osaka to this garden in Yokohama. However, there is no information who made it. According to a book about the Sankeien garden, there is an another story. When it was firstly made it was a residence of a Lord who governed Wakayama area (where was called 'Kishu' in an expression of the Edo era). Then this residence was made a grant towards a Samurai family, and they sold it to a wealthy merchant, then several merchants resold.

Finally, owner of the Sankei-en garden bought. And when he dismantled and reconstructed it, he changed several elements especially roof to express a more elegant appearance.

We punctuate this residence because we can get knowledge about residences of the Edo era. And aren't interested in the stories which tells who made, who bought, who replaced. 

Interestingly, this residence has an anecdote that it was part of a Fushimi palace made by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Why it has these unsourced anecdotes such as a lord's residence of the Wakayama area or a Palace of Toyotomi Hideyoshi? We think it's quite spacious and luxurious, so they misunderstand it might not be a private house even though the owner was a wealthy merchant.


The Rinshunkaku residence

Why people talk so many stories about this single building? Because it has a glow of beauty which makes us talk a lot. The Sankeien garden was consisted of two gardens, the outer garden which was opened to the public from the very beginning, and the inner garden. The inner garden was for owner's family only. And the central building of the inner garden was the Rinshunkaku.



Rinshunkaku residence

At the entrance of the inner garden, we stood in front of our destination. This area is called 'Nai-en' which means 'inside garden' and there is a historical entrance gate which is called 'Go-mon' or a great gate. This huge gate was also dismantled and reconstructed from a certain temple in Kyoto. We pass through it, and get into the garden.

There is a narrow pavement covered patterned stone. Right hand of the pavement, one of the famous tea ceremony houses called 'Hakuun-tei' is there. We go along the stone pavement, and we can find the entrance door of 'Rinshunkaku.' However, the appearance is just a part of it, and we can't imagine the big-picture view of this building. We can't observe the whole building form from the pavement side. Making a turn to the left hand side path, we move to the front open space. These are a magnificent view of 'Rinshunkaku' behind a large pond, and we are overwhelmed by the complete picture of it.

Gomon gate

From this open space, this building might have been a Daimyo-residence (a Lord's residence), furthermore also a Palace of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Its perspective is graceful, refined, and perfect, we don't think extreme this explanation is extreme. We remember several palace consisted of connected 3 Sukiya style buildings, which are Nijho-jho Nino-maru Palace and Katsura-rikyu Palace. These are authentic and top-grade buildings, so it's difficult to find greater one. However, this residence has one superior point, that is the second building which has the overhung veranda widely sticking out into the pond. This building is highly became together with a Japanese garden.

There are many drawings of the original residence which stood at Osaka until the dismantling and reconstruction during the Meiji era. From these drawings, we can learn the order of 3 buildings was changed when the reconstruction was held. When this residence stood at Osaka,the first building was in the center, which we can observe from the entrance pavement now. And, the left-hand side was the second building and the right-hand side was the third building. So, in left of the residence, a pond or a river might be there, and the overhung veranda was located at the left end. In addition, there was also another big difference between the old and the new, 3 buildings were connected more densely.

Rinshunkaku was reconstructed by the new idea, and the center building was interchanged to the other side. The new order was in the deepest building of the original was moved to the center, and the front building of the previous one changed its position to the most secluded part of this residence, and the center was in the front. At the same time, the third building was reversed, so the back side was moved to the front side. And between the center and the third, a connecting passage, lavatories, and wet area was added at this time.

The order of Rinshunkaku
From the entrance (right side) ⇒ the first, the second, the third

The order of original at Osaka
From the entrance (left side) ⇒the third (the front), the first (the center), the second (the secluded)


The original in Osaka had a completely different appearance from the Rinshunkaku now. So, if you say it's not the same one, because of difference of forms, we accept what you are saying.

However, there is another point of view. Wooden structures, sliding doors, sliding screens, wall paintings, and finishing materials were reused. And the impression of the inside is same as the original and finishing is almost same. If you say it is the reconstruction of the same building, because of the fact same materials were used for it, we also think you can say that again.

Choshukaku

Thus, even though the appearance of it is so beautiful and elegant, we can't have confidence the original in Osaka had the same beauty and elegance. So, also we can't say the original was a Daimyo residence, although we can imagine that when we encounter it at the glance. Its beauty and elegance brought about by the reconstruction in the Meiji era. The alteration according to the location or the re-designation in order to realize the ideal residence is the cause of the revival.

We can't enter the residence, so we can't view architectural beauty of the materials inside. Only a book of photos, we can study the information on the inside design, that's a pity. Front side's beauty does not last into the reverse side. Because a big pond exists in front of this residence, but the back side of it is a hill and a narrow path. We can go along the path into the backyard of it, where the third building and the second building were connected. This area was repaired extensively after the WW2, because it had heavy damage by the war. And also the entrance, lavatories for visitors, and old style bathrooms were repaired then. The back side appearance of it is only an ordinary old-fashioned Japanese house. For example, wooden walls were just on the foundation stone which was not so big, and sliding door with glass instead of Japanese paper.

Too much influenced by the front side, we expected too much that it would be a Daimyo residence. The design which was done in the Meiji era was great, and so many people even researchers were misled by its appearance. However, if you think calmly, this residence was a wealthy merchant's look like a Daimyo residence.


Rinshunkaku (Important Cultural Property)

Built in 1649 during the Edo period./Moved to the garden in 1917 during the Taisho Era.
This villa was built by Yorinobu, the first feudal lord of the Kishu Tokugawa clan (also known as the son of Ieyasu Tokugawa, the first shogun of the Edo period.) in Wakayama Prefecture along the Kinokawa River. The interior is decorated with sophisutication as seen in the ink paintings done by Kano school painters on the sliding doors and walls (the originals are stored and displayed at the Sankei Memorial).


Choshukaku (Important Cultural Property)

Built in 1623 during the Edo period./Moved to the garden in 1922 during the Taisho Era.
Believed to have been located on the premises of Nijojo Castle in Kyoto, this building has an unique architectural design unlike any other in Japan and is connected to Iemitsu Tokugawa (the third shogun of the Edo period) and and Kasuga no Tsubone (his wet nurse).


Gekkaden (Important Cultural Property)

Built in 1603 during the Edo period/Moved to the garden in 1918 during the Taisho Era.
Originally built on the premises of Fushimijo Castle in Kyoto and used as a waiting room for Daimyo (leading figures of feudal clans).

from the Official Information of the Paper (we got at the entrance)


Transition of  Lord's residence

We want to review the transition of Lord's living places from the Sengoku era to the Edo era. The lords were the most high-class people at that time, so the living places were also made by the most high-level technology. When we think of the Sengoku era, we imagine huge castles built by the Sengoku lords. However, these huge castles were built at the very end of the Sengoku era. Before that, there were several patterns of residences of the lords, so we will mention in accordance with the changing times.

Gekkaden

At the beginning of the Sengoku era, lords' residences were made on flatland, and for protection against their enemies, they made moats and earthworks around the site. Soon wars became wider and frequently all around Japan, and this style of residences became less protective against huge enemies power.

Then, the style particular to the Ichijhodani residences was made in many places. This style was a combination of a residence on flatland and a mountain castle on the steep mountain. When the enemy came near the residence, they escaped into the mountain castle. This tactics was changed dramatically because of the appearance of the Azuchi castle. Oda Nobunaga who planned this castle started a new tactics which ment building a huge castle and living inside the castle.

Ichijhodani medival town






This tactics had two merit one of which was to show off his power to the ruled people and another was to live at a secure place surrounded many defensive facilities. Castle was developed in the period of Toyotomi Hideyoshi who was the Oda Nobunaga's successor, especially Toyotomi Hideyoshi made many castles using imaginative tactics, and the Osaka castle was one of his masterpiece magnificent and on the other hand defensive.

Choshukaku

However, how wide the lord of the castle made his castle, space for his residence was limited by the surrounding facilities for the defence as long as he made his residence inside his castle. He didn't have a free hand as for his living place. In the Edo era, the warring period was over, but the lord's of the castles had to live inside his castle. Even though the Kazazawa castle where was very wide site for the residences, the lords' of this castle felt cramped.

Kanazawa castle







Then the wealthy lords made villas around their castles, and they lived there usually. Because residences in the castles were used not only their living places but also governmental space, and many retainers worked for them to dominate
their areas. They were rich enough but also they didn't have free hands. Their living places were fixed, and if they hoped to make elegant residences, they didn't.


Other buildings in the Sankei-en garden


The Sankei-en was made by a very wealthy merchant. He was interested in preservation of Japanese historical buildings, which were in the hard situation on their maintenance. He corrected many buildings from all around Japan, and he did not mind the difference of building ages and purpose. If we express in impolite words, these were mixed-ups. Although, in spite of mixtures, all tea rooms scattered around the garden are striking. We suppose it's because he was interested in the tea ceremony personally, so, all buildings were gathered to make an ideal tea ceremony space here.

Yanohara-family residence

And it was planned according to the theme which was to make an ideal tea ceremony space. Amount of relocated buildings are only 17, though, these are comfortably scattered and in harmony with the natural environment there. Although, there are several buildings out of this place, such as a three-storied pagoda and a big traditional Japanese style house. These are not relevant to tea ceremony space, however, it flashes upon us that these buildings are kind of borrowed landscapes.