Ninja Mansion 2

Ninja separated into many groups.
Well then, what was the most famous?

Iga Ninja

Iga-ryu Ninja Museum

This time, we visited Iga city. If we jump to the conclusion, most of sightseeing facilities feature Iga Ninja. 

We want to remember our last visit first. We visited Koka area where the Kouga Ninja was active in old time. This place had several typical regional aspects. 

First is the aspect of travelers. People traveled from Kyoto to Edo used the Tokaido highway mainly. This area was an early part of the highway from Kyoto. Second is the aspect of nature. Koka area was a mouth of a basin in mountainous district and was sandwiched between deep mountains.

Then, we want to compare Iga area with Koka area. Because our destination has similar historical situation. Especially as the home town of Ninja. 

The travelers visited Iga area, they would start their travel from Nara city which was one of the ancient capital cities. And speaking of the traffic, there weren't important any highway around there. The nature was quite similar. This area was also a basin, if someone wanted to visit there, he had to climb over steep mountainous district. 

What we are trying to say is that both areas are close to developed regions in the old time. However, steep mountainous area around them refused these area becoming a member of developed regions.

Tokaido: the old time highways from Kyoto to Edo

The fact close to developed regions raised the possibility of suffering the ravages of war. When the Sengoku era began, the possibility became routine. 

To protect themselves against the ravages, local samurai and local clans strengthened their unity. It was important to improve the protecting skill for them to survive. Accordingly, intelligence and self-defense techniques were innovated in this area.

We will change the subject to another point of view. Iga Ninja's techniques were needed for many authorities in those days. Especially at the Edo era, many Iga Ninja were hired by the Edo shogunate and many feudal lords. They appeared to take charge of personal protections, searching for suspicious people and maintenance of public order. 

Among these groups with special skills called 'Ninjyutsu' or Ninja techniques, it seemed that 'Iga-mono' or Iga Ninja became the most trustable group. In this way, Iga Ninja became one of the top brands among undercover agent group.

Iga-ueno castle

Before getting in touch with the history of Iga Ninja, we want to confirm how to go there. In the "Iga city tourist guide's official website", 3 routes from Osaka to Uenoshi-eki using public transportation systems are announced. Uenoshi-eki is the station in the center of Iga city and there is Ueno castle, one of the historical symbols of this city. 

Number one is a route using private train, Kintetsu-Osaka-line and Iga-railway.
Number two is a route making connection of JR-Yamatoji-line, JR-Kaisaihonsen-line and Iga-railway.
Number three is a route using highway bus. 

Kintetsu super express

The bottom line will be the number one route. However, total number of express trains which stop transfer station is one every hour. So, the traffic is inconvenient. When we start Osaka at around 8 o'clock (additionally we need to select the appropriate train) we'll arrive Uenoshi-eki station at 9:40. Total travel hour will be 100 minutes. And the fare is approximately 20 US$ per 1 adult.

Then, let's check the number two route. Using this route we need to transfer one more time from Yamatoji-line to Kansaihonsen-line, so it's more inconvenient. Furthermore, trains from the transfer station to the next transit point are only two in an hour. When we start JR Osaka station at around 8, we'll arrive at 10:40. Total travel hour will be 160 minutes. (We don't check the fare.)  

Let's check the third choice. We can arrive at Uenoshi-eki in 100 minutes and the fare is approximately 15 US$ per 1 adult. The expense is the cheapest but it can be used only twice a day. The early bus departs from Osaka around 11 o'clock and arrives in Uenoshi-eki at 12:50. The return bus leaves Uenoshi-eki at 3 o'clock, so we may need to stay overnight.

Every route is inconvenient, even though this district is geographically close to Osaka. Checking public transportations, we happen to glimpse into the historical placement of Iga area. Both now and in the past, emotional distance is very far. 

 A temple in the castle town

Several places that we would like to recommend are a little far from Uenoshi-eki station. It's difficult to go there by walking or by rental bicycles. Because Iga basin that we visited is really wide and the places are scattered all around. 

Talking about this time destinations, the Iga-Ueno castle is close to Uenoshi-eki station. However, some residences and temples which were related Ninja are far from the station and we needed to use a car. If you decided to visit our destinations, you would need to use a taxi or a rental car.

Iga-Ueno castle

First of all, we'll visit the Iga-Ueno castle in front of Uenoshi-ski station. Talking about the historical aspect, Iga area was positioned as one of the important advance bases for Tokugawa group to attack the Osaka castle in the beginning of the Edo era. So, this castle was renovated widely by Todo Takatora who was famous as a master of constructing modern castles at that time.

The main tower was destroyed by accident in the middle of construction. The war at the Osaka castle ended while the castle was constructing. So, this castle became unimportant after the war and the main tower rebuilding was stopped. 

We can visit the main tower now but it was built approximately 80 years ago, so it's not authentic. And one more thing, its compounds are changed violently, so we can't find initial zoning of this castle.

The reconstructed main tower is also a historical museum like many other reconstructed ones. In it, there are many historical artifacts such as war helmets, armors and weapons. Actually, we hoped to find information about territory of this castle but couldn't find any. We supposed there wasn't remained documents or drawings any more.

The tallest stone rampart

We have one thing specially wanted to mention, we can see the tallest stone rampart in Japan at the east bailey of the castle. Even though it's the tallest, it wouldn't be important. Because we have to take a roundabout route to this view point.     

On the path to the stone rampart, there is the Iga-ryu Ninja Museum. It's a same kind of facility like the Kouga-ryu Ninjutsu-yasiki Museum we visited before. It was made earlier than the Kouga's, and we suppose the Kouga's was designed after this. We can look at the Ninja Show by Ninja performance group "Asyura". However, it was regular holiday. It's a pity that we couldn't look at it.


No performance show today

We went out the castle and strolled in the castle town. Then we found 'Shinobi-cho' there. 'Shinobi' is another way to call 'Ninja'. So, this area was a town Ninja families dwelled, who had been hired by the Todo clan. In the castle town, there aren't any moats. Furthermore, roads are changed quite violently.

From a performance show another day

By the way, we saw international tourists wearing Ninja costumes and Kimono. Because there are several rental Kimono shops where you can rent Ninja costumes and Kimono.  

Now, we would like to investigate the Ninga. True charm of Iga Ninja is in suburb, we think. First, we want to introduce "Sawamura family mansion", a Hira-jiro castle or a castle on the plains built in the Middle Ages. Hira-jiro castles were formed like a rectangle or square in the plain land and at 4 ends of the site were covered by tall walls and deep moats. These were mansions of regional authorities and by some measures these were small castles. 'Sawamura family mansion' is in the east suburb of Iga city. The site is covered by 3 meters stone ramparts all around. And there was moats around it but these moats were reclaimed now.

Sawamura family mansion

This mansion is in the east suburb of Iga city. The site is covered by 3 meters stone ramparts all around. And there was moats around it but these moats were reclaimed now. The site is rectangle shape and big gate is in front of it. To the gate, there is a narrow and long approach and both sides of it is a wide rice field which it will change a muddy field in the battle time.

The entrance of mansion

The site is rectangle shape and a big gate is in front of it. To the gate, there is a narrow and long approach and both sides of it is a wide rice field which it will change a muddy field in the battle time. We cannot see inside because of the stone ramparts. These seemed to be some buildings but we could see only the rooftop of the most outside residence. Backside of this property was a grove of mixed trees and also other residences covered its back, so we couldn't see inside from its backside.

As a matter of fact, this mansion is owned by a real Ninja's descendant. Someone of the Sawamura family at the end of the Edo era was a real Ninja and he searched the inside of a Black ship. This mansion is a true Ninja mansion.

Black ships: Western ships arrived at the end of the Edo era were called like this because of their body painted by tar. 

Takeshima family mansion

We can see another Hira-jiro castle in a western suburb of Iga city. Its name is "Takeshima family mansion." Nobody lives now in it, and only a small information board in front of the gate notices that it's a historical building. Once it was covered by mounds and moats for defense, but these are removed and reclaimed now. However, its wide property is surrounded by a thick grove of mixed trees, so it stands out well in the vacant countryside. It seems to have reconstructed many times, but we feel the laden with history in it.

In the Sengoku era, the owner of this Hira-jiro castle was a member who battled against Oda Nobunaga. Was he Ninja? Maybe not. But several of his descendants were Ninja. 
   

The Kasuga shrine

At east end of Iga city, there is the Kasuga shrine, and its front shrine is a building of the Kamakura period style. The construction date of it is unknown but was supposed before the Sengoku era. We heard that Kasuga-yama or the mountain in front of this shrine was the object of worship. When Oda Nobunaga invaded Iga basin, it was used as a mountain castle or a fortification. And there are remains of compounds and moats.

Inside of the front shrine

Original front shrine of it is survived for suffering the Oda's invasion. And one more strange thing is, very near, the Mibuno castle ruin is remained. This castle was used as a resistance base against Oda's invasion. In the ruin, there are tombstones of rural samurai people killed in this battle. So,  we think the Kasuga-yama mountain was not used as a fortification when Oda's army invaded. We don't investigate deeply, but we come to think it would be used in another period. 

Tombstones at Mibuno castle

We also find a notable temple, Tokuou-ji in the northern area of Iga basin, Marubashira area which is a border of Kouga district and Iga district. This area has an old tradition that Tokugawa Ieyasu took a short rest when he tried the "Iga-goe" trip. 

This trip is a very famous episode. When Oda Nobunaga was killed in Kyoto, Tokugawa Ieyasu traveled around Kansai area with his few retainers. He was in danger to be killed by his enemys, so he and his retainers intended to travel to his hometown. And this dangerous trip is called the "Iga-goe" trip.

When we actually observed it, we supposed that it might been used as a castle. So, we thought the tradition that Tokugawa Ieyasu took a short rest might be true. And the landscape around here suggests that this area was a defensive base of Iga basin. Furthermore, there were many small castles using steep mountain slopes around here.

Tokuou-ji temple

Only one year before this episode occurred, Iga district had been completely destroyed by Oda Nobunaga's army. In this war, Iga's rural samurai group fought against Oda's army. They used "Norosi" or signal fire effectively. And when they attacked Oda's camps, they used guerrilla tactics under covered by night darkness. 

This experience gave their descendants wisdom. And these techniques were used as the basic technology of the Iga Ninja. 

A little after this war, Oda Nobunaga had been killed and the ruler was changed to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. 

We have no information about Iga district in the era of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. However, when the era of the next ruler, Tokugawa Ieyasu came, people in Iga district came to life again. Because rural lords of Iga district had helped Tokugawa Ieyasu's "Iga-goe" trip once. He owed them and he gave important positions to them. They were called Iga Ninja during the Edo period.  

Ninja Mansion 1

We have explored a real Ninja mansion. And investigated the real role of the Ninja in Japanese history.


Koga Ninja

We think the Ninja was told so much biased and instilled the tremendous image. Where the real Ninja was born? And what kind of roles he actually played in Japanese history? If we are questioned 'what Ninja is like,' we will explain as belows:

Ninja mansion in Kouka city

Historically, he was a dark hero, and was not a white hat but a black hat, a cool black hat. But, he was strict with himself, and he focused on getting his job done at any risk of his life. Furthermore, Ninja group had strong solidarity. Then, did he play roles that we imagine today? We want to investigate it in this article. 

Our exploration begins with visiting a real Ninja mansion. It was a dwelling of a leader of a Koga Ninja group. Please notice many Ninja groups existed in old Japan but survived Ninja dwellings are rare. So, we could not easily find such kind of building. 

When people talk about Ninja, the Iga Ninja and the Koga Ninja were especially famous. The reason is, we suppose, that these two groups were active nearby the center of Japan, Kyoto then they played relatively important roles in many cases. As a result of this fact, they were described in many stories compered with other Ninja groups.

Territory was an important factor to play memorable roles in the history. The Koga Ninja lived in Konan town, Koka City, Shiga Prefecture today. The mansion we visited is there.

When you decide to visit there, go to Kusatsu JR station and transfer to JR Kusatsu line and get off at Konan station. The distance from this station to the mansion is approximately 30 minutes by walk. If you use a rental bicycle, you can reduce travel time. But we didn't find the shop, so, we cannot confirm it.  

Inside of Ninja mansion

The Ninja mansion was smaller than we expected. Because accessory buildings, surrounding walls and gates had been lost now. The width of the site was larger than a residence of Sho-ya, a headman of farming village, and smaller than a high-class retainer of Daimyo, the rural lords. 

In our opinion, Ninja's position was also higher than a headman of farmers, so, his dwelling was also larger than the leader. 

According to the explanation of the paper, we suppose it was a little exaggerated, there had been wide premise around the mansion and a big gate was in front of this building. However, the truth was in the mist. 

Drawings and documents of many historical buildings for example Japanese castles have been remained usually. Looking at them, we can imagine how big the lost premise or properties. However, this Ninja mansion has no drawings. 

Sorry to change the subject but, we were quite surprised at the inside of it. There were many tricks, hidden doors, pitfalls, underground passages, and hidden ladders and so on. So, we want to describe this kind of information a little more.  

Inside of Ninja mansion

In this mansion, many artifacts were displayed in showcases. These goods had been used by Ninja. Throwing stars, wears, goods for special tricks etc.

One of tricks: Rope ladder

Don't you think Ninja was a person to concentrate on the dark side duties, espionage and assassinations? It's not true in reality. Your view on Ninja may be destroyed by the next several paragraphs. However, we think Ninja's mysterious position won't be denied by our explanations. 

Reading a paper given at "Koga-ryu Ninjutsu-yashiki", it was a residence of "Koga 53-ke Hitto-kaku Koga-Mochizuki-shi Honke Kyutei."

"Koga-ryu" means the Ninja school of Koga
"Ninjyutsu" means the art of Ninja action
"Yashiki" means a residence 
"53-ke" means 53 families or 53 clans
"Hittou-kaku" means almost top 
"Mochizuki-shi" means Mochizuki family
"Honke" means the head family
"Kyutei" means a former residence

So, they say that "it was the Koga Mochizuki family's residence and this family was one of the top of 53 families in Koga district". And this residence was built at the Genroku period in Edo era. This fact affects later.

Koga-ryu Ninjutsu-yasiki
Koga 53-ke hitto-kaku Koga-Mochizuki-shi honke kyutei

Do you think that 53 families described in the first description stated the Ninja families? And the Koga Ninja group consisted with these 53 families? 

In truth, these 53 families were 53 "samurai" families in reality. Furthermore, these Koga 53 families were active at the latter half of the Muromachi era. So, at this time, Ninja wasn't in existence yet.

The incident that these 53 families involved happened in 1487. That was a war between the Rokkaku family's army and the Muromachi shogunate's amy. The Rokkaku family was the lord of this region called "Shugo" at that time. In this war, Koga Samurai families took the Rokkaku family's side.
 
As we already explained, when Koga 53 families were active, this residence wasn't existed. So, at least, the people of the Mochizuki family who were famous as Koga 53 families didn't use this residence. 

It is available there had been a former residence of the Mochizuki family and they reconstructed it in Edo era. But we think the more likely possibility is that Mochizuki family in Koga 53 families wasn't connected to this residence at all. We are afraid that the description of a paper we got at the entrance of this building aims to create our misunderstanding. 

Ninja is on the wall

Let's take a look at the actual history. Koga district is near Kyoto where the Muromachi shogunate headquarters was. For that reason, Koga samurai families were employed as the guards of the Shogun.

Looking back on the war at 1487, the Shogun expected they would become allies. And he would be unbelievably surprised that Koga families took the Rokkaku family's side. They played active role in this battle and became famous. However, we suppose, it was obviously because the Shogun became distressed by unbelievable betrayal.

One of secret books of Ninja

Almost a hundred years after that war, one of the Koga samurai families named "Wada" helped Ashikaga Yoshiaki. He made a furtive escape from Kofuku-ji temple where he had been confined. Taking this opportunity, Oda Nobunaga became an upstart, and apace of the rise of the Oda group, Koga samurai families became strong. Many of Koga families were taken into Oda army corps and became Oda's retainers and started to be active in the group.

However, when the ruler changed to Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Koga samurai families who had been in important positions in a long time were deprived of their status. Because a new ruler disliked these groups who contributed the old political forces. 

Then, some families lost their rank as samurai and became "Yamabushi" or Shinto ascetics. And the encounter with "Japanese mountain asceticism" made them learn new martial art. People who became Shinto ascetics practiced their new martial art in mountains near their living place and after the practice they were supported to become the Koga Ninja.

Second floor: Medicine storeage?

Several years further on, and Tokugawa Ieyasu became the next ruler of Japan. When Oda Nobunaga died, Ieyasu experienced the dangerous escape called "Iga-goe" or an escape tour at Iga. At that very time, Iga and Koga samurai families helped him escape. Ieyasu gave important positions to them in his government to reward their support. 

However, given occupations were relatively dark side duties, so, we suppose that they might already have many high-quality members of Ninja duties before this time.

On the other hand, people who forced to choose a life of "Yamabushi" were treated as dangerous groups. They prohibited to move freely and were forced to enroll their name. So, Koga families separated into the ruined group and others who were taken into the authorities confidence.



Medicine chest

By an essay of a rural researcher, this "Koga-ryu Ninjutsu-yasiki" wasn't rich farmer's mansion but Yamabushi's. As mentioned above, Yamabushi were the ruined side among Koga families' descendants. 

To sum up what we've written, we suppose that the owner of this mansion was a leader of a Koga Yamabushi group. And one more thing, this mansion was a base for a Koga Yamabushi group but a former residence of a samurai family. If we think like that, it will make sence. So, they made many tricks such as hidden doors, pitfalls, underground passages, hidden ladders.

Koga Yamabushi people practiced in deep mountains, and they invented many medicines through their ascetic practices. Many manufacturing methods of medicines were collected in the secret books which were called the Ninja secret books. And one of the most famous books was named 'Mansen-syukai' and it became a source conveying an image of Ninja. 

Entrance of Ninja mansion : There is a sign board of medicine

On the other hand, Koga Yamabushi people made their living from peddling. They dealt in talismans of famous temples and medicines they made themselves from mountain plants of Koga district. Then there are many medicine companies in Koka city now.

Their business was connected with the Ninja group's situation. Peddling all over Japan, they caught many rural secret information which was important for authorities. So, the authorities hired Koga Yamabushi people eagerly. These people dedicated their lives to intelligence, and skilled at using medicines, and also were practicing mountainous training. They might become secretive to keep their information secret, medicine secret and so on. Consequently, somebody started to call them "Koga Ninja."  

Temples of Shogunate 2

"Myoshin-ji"

We went to "Myoshin-ji" taking a JR line. JR Saga-arashiyama station is east of "Tenryu-ji" in 10 minutes walking. Hanazono station, our next getting off point is two stations away in the direction of Kyoto station. 

Leaving the north entrance of the station, we walked several minutes along the broadway in front of the entrance to the east. And we found a three forked road, and we went on its north a little more, then the south entrance of this temple there. 


The dragon of Hondo from a paper of Myoshin-ji

We would like to explain one of Myoshin-ji's features first. In the ceiling of the Houdo, a dragon is living. Of course, it's a metaphor. The dragon was drawn on the ceiling by a famous painter of the Edo era.

People in the Muromachi era, approximately 700 years ago, believed evil consequences of deadmen and also believed metaphysical beings. "Tengu" and "Ryu" are the typical examples. It is said that "Tengu" are goblins who have supernatural power and strange faces, red skin and long-noses. And "Ryu" are dragons very similar to Europian legendary creature.

In Zen temples, there are many scrolls drawn "Daruma-daishi" who is a symbol of Buddhism practitioner. And also "Ryu" were drawn in many Zen temples, because it's a symbol of supernatural existence.

Daruma-daishi

There lives another dragon in the Hondo of Tenryu-ji where visited just before. We didn't have a chance to look at it, so, we definitely want to look at the dragon of Myoshin-ji.  

Now, we are standing in front of the main south entrance gate, called "Chokushi-mon". And this gate opens only in special events.

Entrance of Myoshin-ji

We went through a little gate beside of Chokushi-mon and realized a stall like an entrance ticket-stall. Middle-aged man sitting inside explained that we needed no entrance fare to enter the siting. 

There are several massive buildings in a straight line. They are "San-mon", "Butsu-den", "Hatto", "Dai-hojyo". And, "Kuri" is west of "Dai-hojyo".

San-mon

Butsu-den

Hatto

People except for believers of this sect only can enter "Hatto". And, the famous dragon lives in its ceiling. The dragon stared at us,  its eyes glared at us when we were at the right side of it, it glared the right side, and when we moved to its left side, it gazed us to the left side. As long as we were in this building, we couldn't escape from its eyes.

This dragon symbolizes something almighty in the sky. And to be face to face with this something almighty means kind of experience of "Zen".   

The authorities in the Muromachi era had devoted themselves the "Zen-syu" or the Zen sect strongly. This had been by the people not only the Muromachi Shogunate but also anti-Muromachi-Shogunate. Actually, anti-Muromachi-Shogunate temples had been represented by this temple those days.  

Buthu-den and Hatto

Why both groups were influenced by this philosophy? We suppose  people in this era learned a new view of the world taking a look at themselves again. This spiritual practices in Zen-syu were very effective for the people of those days. So, powerful men of both sides did.

From Chokushi-mon to San-mon, Butsu-den, Hatto and Dai-hojo, there are big buildings lined straight. This scene that big buildings line straight is attractive enough.


Bird's-eye view of Myoshin-ji

That's the only charm of this temple. A great amount of "Tattyu" temples is another charm. The number is amazing 46.

Usually, people except for believers of this sect can't enter these Tattyu temples, because these facilities are actually only for believers and practitioners. It's a pity for us, but temples are not only for tourists. We should understand how to enjoy visiting temples as comprehensive tourists.

In this siting, many narrow alleyways run all over this compound and they connect 46 Tattyu temples each other. If you can use light vehicles, you can move even in these narrow alleys. But they aren't.

A Tattyu temple

Tattyu temples are surrounded by tall earthen walls. We felt the solemn atmosphere even from the outside of them. And we looked at the entrances, front of buildings and front gardens beautifully arranged.

Entrance of a Tattyu temple

Several Tattyu temples are open to the public. And one of them is famous for its garden. So we visited. It's "Keisyun-in". "Sanpai-ryo" or a contribution offering was 400yen for an adult.

We supposed that this temple was popular for autumn leaves viewers. Because frontpage of the paper they gave us was a picture of "Chashitsu" or a building for the tea ceremony and trees with bright red autumn-colored leaves. However, today, a few tourists were only visitors. The gardens were brushed cleanly and trees and plants in the garden were also well treated. 

Paper of Keisyun-in

We think you should take the precinct of this temple is a kind of barrier, and a ritual boundary of the Zen sect. When we visited this temple, there're a few tourists, and met only few temple's persons. We felt a quiet and special atmosphere, and the devout mood of the whole boundary made us faithful temporarily.  


The history of "Myoshin-ji"

Myoshin-ji was established in 1337. The place this temple is located had been the residence of Hanazono-jyoko. And it was reformed to a Zen temple. At that time, the Zen sect groups in Kyoto separated into pro-Muromachi-Shogunate and anti-Muromachi-Shogunate. Myoshin-ji was one of the major temples of anti-Muromachi-Shogunate.

If we cast a spotlight the date when it was established this year was the next year when the Muromachi Shogunate was established. Looking at the details, this temple was supported by Hanazono-jyoko ("Jyoko" means former emperor). Hanazono-jyoko was a leader of anti-Muromachi-Shogunate. People belonged these two parties we explained above had been belonged one governmental party which had been established two years before 1337. And some people changed their political position and established the Muromachi Shogunate. But he and his retainers remained the former governmental party. And now their position became the opposition of the shogunate.

Around this year, these two big groups had almost same power. However, Emperor Godaigo died in 1338, who was the most important person in the anti-Muromachi-Shogunate group. So the death canged the situation dramatically. The Muromachi Shogunate group improved its power, and, by contrast, the anti group began to decrease its power year after year. 

It's difficult to examine the relationship between Myoshin-ji and the shogunate at that time. Also the scale of Myoshin-ji's site those days is unknown. 

At the last few decades of the 14th century, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu became the third shogun and the shogunate flourished mostly. On the other hand, Myoshin-ji was cramped down by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and confiscated its siting. Myoshin-ji passed through its hard history.

Around 1430th, Myoshin-ji was reconstructed, but the fire of the Onin war destroyed its hole buildings again and hard time continued. And a few more years was past, around 1510th, next reconstruction started by the grants from many Sengoku lords. Myoshin-ji began to reconstruct buildings, and at the same time, many "Tattyu" temples began to belong with Myoshin-ji.

Main facilities remained are bellow. San-mon was built at 1599, Chokushi-mon at 1610, Hatto at 1656, Dai-hojyo at 1654. These main buildings were restored during the end of the Azuchi-momoyama era and the beginning of the Edo era. This restoration was carried out with the support of the Samurai class at that time. And these properties remain still now.  
 

Study of teaching of Buddhism

Myoshin-ji is a main temple of one of Zen-sects now. It gives high priority into spiritual practices and achievement of believer's tranquility.

Myoshin-ji thinks past history isn't important. However, the rivalry with the Muromachi Shogunate once upon a time existed absolutely. In spite of this historical truth, there is no description about the rivalry with it in its paper for tourists. We suppose the Muromachi Shogunate isn't so much famous in Japanese history, then this temple don't recognize the importance of the relationship with it.


"Kinkaku-ji"

The premise of "Myoshin-ji" occupys huge area of north-west of Kyoto. We went into the temple from the south gate, and went out the north gate. Outer area of the gate isn't so far from Kitayama area where is our next destination.

There is the Kitano line of the "Ran-den" train at the north of Myoshin-ji. This line is worth to travel north-west sightseeing spots. If you want to visit famous temples of this area, stations in this line will be starting points such as "Ninna-ji" and "Ryoan-ji". The nearest station was "Touji-in", but this is the previous station of the terminal. So we thought it wasn't worth to ride. 
 

Ran-den

As far as we checked the map, distance to "Kinkaku-ji" was only a few kilometers from where we were standing. Furthermore, there aren't other public transportation systems except for "Ran-den". So, we chose to walk. Several tens of minutes, we walked along a residential street.

By the way, Ritsumeikan university is near here. And many young students were around there. This is an another aspect of Kyoto city. We were a little impressed by a new charm of this city.

Going to Kinkaku-ji in Kitayama area, we had to keep walking gentle uphill a little long time. Facing unexpected hardness, we were so tired. Just in a half way, we went through in front of the entrance of "Touji-in". We noticed information that this temple had been deeply connected with the Muromachi Shogunate. We expected to visit this temple, if we had an extra time. Unfortunately, our watchs pointed predetermined time to arrive Kinkaku-ji already, so we gave up to visit Touji-in temple.

In this way, we stood in front of the entrance gate of Kinkaku-ji. We felt this entrance was a little poor-looking and doubted it was correct? However, this narrow gate swallowed endless huge amount of international tourists successively. It's exactly right place! 

Alley to Kinkaku-ji

There was a gravel-covered alley moderate width and depth, and bordered with a row of garden trees. There should be "Houyo", "Shoin" and "Kuri" in the way to the ticket office. But, we didn't find these buildings. Why?

After paying the entrance fee, 400 yen for an adult, the very famous sight came to our front suddenly. In front of us, a wide pond was there, and beyond it was the famous temple, Kinkaku-ji. This building overwhelms every man-made things. Other buildings didn't care anymore.  

It's too difficult to talk about the wellspring of its beauty. From points of the design, for example, its pillars of the original had been a little thinner than the present one (So, the present one may not represent hundred percent beauty of the original one) or the proportion of each volumes of three floors was ideal (So, the beauty of this building came from the balance of each floor). And from the point of architectural style, each floor was planed in different architectural forms. Like these examples, there was so much information about its beauty. So, we decided to pay no attention to these specialists' talks. Because we usual visitors were able to walk along nearby Kinkaku-ji and weren't able to enter inside.

As additional information, there is another golden temple at Hiraizumi in the Tohoku region. This temple is covered by a reinforced-concrete building to avoid direct heavy snow of winter time. So, we think that this temple doesn't have an elegance like the appearance of Kinkaku-ji which is the part of the whole ideal garden world.

Another golden temple in it

And we want to mention another example of a structure covered gold, although it's a little strange to compare these buildings. It's the golden Chashitsu in Osaka castle (It's a replica). In our opinion, it doesn't represent the beauty which would have originally. Because it's in a corner of the museum space. Accordingly, we think Kinkaku-ji is the best, and the beauty will shine in the garden more.

Replica of the golden Chashitsu

Just then we walked through the nearest side of Kinkaku-ji building, a summer shower began to rain violently. Tourists having no umbrellas flew in all directions, and escaped under eaves all around. Soon, nobody stood in an alley beside Kinkaku-ji. We also gave up on further exploration and left this temple. We could run some more things, if the sudden summer shower hadn't rained? Well, the shower rained or not, the situation would not change.

Kinkaku-ji was a hall of a stroke-style garden when it was made. And this garden was belonged with "Kitayama Goten" or the Kitayama palace. It was made as a retirement residence of ex-Shogun. The owner had been the third Shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate, and his name was Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. The Muromachi Shogunate was flourished mostly during the reign of him. He handed over the rank of Shogun to his son and he became the guardian of Shougun.

But he didn't hand over political power, so, his son had strong resentment to his father. When Ashikaga Yuoshimitsu died, his son ordered to destroy the Kitayama palace, and only gardens and Kinkaku-ji were remained. We suppose he couldn't destroy the beauty of Kinkaku-ji even though he had resentment to his father. After the incident, it became Kinkaku-ji, a temple belonged "Shoukoku-ji." Then, its was a facility for fun when it was firstly used.

Beyond the garden pond

Considering relationship between the Muromachi Shogunate and this golden temple, we can find how big its wealth and power were. The wealth and power were big enough to make this golden temple. However, a golden structure made by people related the Muromachi Shogunate was only this. So, their wealth and power weren't infinity. 

This beautiful Kinkaku-ji remained until modern days, but, it wasn't an important building in those days and the following days. It was already a sightseeing spot in the Edo era, and asked of visitors "Sanpai-ryo". 

Overcoming every painful experience, Kinkaku-ji became one of the most famous buildings. We have no idea when it became to gather attention this much? All in all, there's Kinkaku-ji in Kyoto, and this is the reason we visit Kyoto.