Akino Fuku Museum

Akino Fuku Museum is located at Hamamatsu city Shizuoka Prefecture, and it is a museum featured only one famous female artist, Akino Fuku (秋野不矩). 

She was born in this region, and later lived in Kyoto city. It was built as one of the projects for the area rehabilitation of this region.

Because it went through such a process, it has two special properties. First, it is quite small as a public building, because it's featuring only one artist and it located at a relatively remote area. Second, the planner was chosen by personal relationship (he was Akino's relatives friend), so, the planner could make this museum distinctive-looking. And the planner's name is Fujimori Terunobu 

(藤森照信), one of the most expected architects in Japan. It is the reason we aim this museum.

This region is called the Tenryu Ward, and famous as a land prospered a forestry industry. One of the famous forestry products is called "Tenryu-sugi", "sugi" is Japanese cedar. If you read one of my articles, "MOSAIC TILE MUSEUM", you may notice the planner is same. Like the MOSAIC TILE MUSEUM, its exterior and interior were finished by many natural produced materials. Outer wall was finished partly by Tenryu-sugi and mainly by a mortar mixed chip of straw to have the effect that looks like a wooden building. As the roofing, he used flagstone slates to have an antique impression.

This museum is standing on a hill top. From a car parking lot at the bottom of the hill, we walk up a semicircular slope to the museum. Now, there is a mountain covered by many trees in front of our route, so we walk up the skirt of it. A strange shape building is coming into our eyesight. The tea-house named "Bouku-ro" which was described by the planner, Mr. Fujimori "it was finished like a wild boar". It was placed when an event was held a few years ago. And it can use as a tea-house practically, however, general visitors cannot enter it. In the first place, there are no stairs, so people need to set a ladder and unlock a small door behind the structure. It's difficult for general visitors.     

The museum is in front of us, and there is a gateway at the left-hand side. Inside the gateway is a wide lobby, a high ceiling. 
Interior wall and ceiling are finished by white plaster mixed chip of straw, and uncovered cedar pillars and beams burned the surfaces. 
The atmosphere is something like a mountain lodge. People are required to take off shoes at the gate of the exhibition room and they feel the texture of the floor made by wood and mortar during appreciation of work.  

Its second floor is quite small, half size of the first floor, and mainly there is a special exhibition room only. When we visit, this room is closed. In the first floor, there is a terrace beside the lobby, this terrace is overhung on a steep cliff, so we can get a wide view here. On the other hand, there is no veranda in the second floor. We suppose this plan makes us feel old-fashioned impression.

We investigated not only the flourish front side but also the backyard used for maintenance and support. Backside wooden walls are changed miserably. Their proud "Tenryu-sugi" walls were severely weathered and the edge of them were rotten with damp from the ground. Furthermore, several parts where something was placed have wide holes. Mortar walls are also stained, edge of the steps of emergency stairs covered something like moss. This museum is located relatively near center of a town, however, the menace of nature, we cannot underestimate it.   

Asuke castle (true mountain-castle)

In this article, we are explaining what was a real mountain-castle in the Sengoku period.

Because we want to visit a real mountain-castle, we investigated and finally focused the Asuke castle. The Damine castle where we had visited in a previous article, was also a mountain-castle, however, its facilities were not from the authentic but from one of ancient blue-prints of samurai residence at the same time the castle was made. We appreciate the decision of the owner of the castle, even so, there was a mismatch between the location and the building reconstructed.

Map of the Asuke castle

So, we happened to research another possibility, and found the information of this castle. We heard that the Asuke castle's structures had been reconstructed based on the survey results. The owner of this castle had researched the whole area before they started the reconstruction. They had found many remains such as pits used as holes for posts. So, they reconstructed the old buildings according to the records remained on the surface of its site. We want to describe the difference of reconstructed buildings of this castle from the Damine castle's building. How different they are?    

Toyota city where the Asuke castle is located is the city a world-famous car-manufacturer, Toyota corporation's headquarters and main factories are there. 
Most part of this city excepting the center where many factories street with is mountainous area sticking out the flat land. In this mountainous area, many mountain-castles were built during the Sengoku period. At that time, this mountainous area was appropriate to make castles for the rural lords who ruled this region. 


The history of the Asuke castle

The Asuke castle does not have special own history which influenced the Japanese history. There isn't an unique story staking everything (like the episode the Damine castle's solders betrayed their master and Takeda Katsuyori at the very end of the battle at Nagashino). We suppose this averageness of this castle made it not to be noticed until now.

By the way, this castle was disposed at the end of the Sengoku period because the lord of this castle removed to the Kanto district. However, after that, the whole area of this castle was not used other purpose and well preserved. For example, Kuruwa (baileys) were remained untouched, such as additional digging was not done. Furthermore, researchers such as professors of universities paid attention, some professor made the first reproduction drawing of this castle area in 1963.  

Regarding the history of this castle, these information is quite rare. For example the birth year is not written in the handout we get at the entrance booth. At that time, a mountain-castle was an emergency facility and the lord placed his residence at the bottom of the castle, and made a village where the
servants and general laborers lived usually. But we don't get such kind of information from handouts and other database, books, the Internet and so on. There are several comparatively small buildings there, then, are these the living place of the lords or not? We want to know more about the life of the lord of this castle. 


Reproduced area

Well, let us say it one more again. This castle's charm is authenticity of constructions which were made according to the result of the excavation. The buildings we are looking at now is exactly same as the originals.

Ichijodani medival town

We know another example that the Ichijodani medieval town was partly reproduced in the area where it had been using the effort of the excavation. 
Reproduced Ichijodani medieval town made us surprise by its authenticity. 
We can have a look around the whole excavated district and calculate the width of this town and the power of the Asakura clan who made it.

In comparison, how wide the Asuke castle is? In the Ichijodani area, there is the Ichijo mountain-castle, that was the emergency castle for the Asakura clan. 
The width of the Asuke castle is around one third of the Ichijo mountain-castle.

The Asuke castle was made by the Suzuki clan who was a rural lord of this region. We don't have information how wide his territory was and how many soldiers he employed at that time. A little disappointment we feel about smallness of such kind of information. However, according to the comparison of these two castles, he had relatively a spacious mountain-castle.    

The entrance gate

Now we enter the castle area going through the entrance gate. There is a bailey named 'Minamino-maru' (south bailey), and reproduced cabins on this area. 
This bailey is located on around 10 meters higher ground than we are standing. So we can't enter this bailey directly. And once soldiers who lived in this castle were looking down their enemy soldiers when the battle would happen.

The Minamino-maru bailey

Our routes, or narrow paths split in two in front of this bailey. We follow the direction shown on the sign. And we aim other bailey called 'Nishino-maru' (west bailey). These baileys are consisted with a main bailey and several secondary small baileys called 'Koshi-kuruwa'. And they make a shape like terraced fields. These baileys are connected with each other by narrow paths. The soldiers who lived in this castle used to move between these baileys.

The Nishino-maru bailey

Then we go ahead along the viewing routes and climb the exterior stairs. And we reach the Nishno-maru bailey. It's a relatively wide place, elliptical shape and surrounded by palisades. We can look down to the eastern region from here. And the opposite side of our distance, there is a wooden watch tower reconstructed.

According to information boards, there were other buildings around it but only it is reconstructed now. It is a two-story square shape building. And we, visitors are prohibited from climbing the ladder to the second floor. It's a shame.

Behind it is the Hon-maru bailey (the center bailey). The Hon-maru bailey is located on around 10 meters higher ground than we are standing. If we were the attacking soldiers, the Hon-maru bailey looked too high, so quite difficult to attack it directly.

The minamino-maru bailey and Watch tower

Going through a narrow side road, we visit the Minamino-maru bailey. It is the bailey we look at first when we enter the castle area. The entrance gate is a flip-up door. In the bailey, there are two cabins reconstructed.

Inside of the cabin

Each cabin is a one-story, and there is an earthen floor, a front room with a hearth, and an inner room, so, inside of the cabin is relatively spacious. Another cabin's inside is also same. We don't have extra information whether the lord's family lived in these cabins or not. Or these are accommodation for the servants.

We go out the Minamino-maru bailey and we go up another narrow path to the Hon-maru bailey (the center bailey). At the end of a slope, there is another watch tower, it was called the 'Minami-monomidai' (the south watch tower). We also can't enter it. However, we can look quite far landscape even at the bottom of this tower. From the tower, we go up again to the Hon-maru bailey. There is a bridge-like structure that leads to the path to the Hon-maru bailey. We go through the bridge-like structure and climb a narrow slope again.

In the Hon-maru bailey, there is a two-story tower and a one-story building called 'Nagaya', however, this building's use is unknown. We can enter the tower, and the inside looks like living space of the lord's family. There is a small corner named the lord's space, however it is too small to live his daily life. At that time, even the lord, his living space was not wide enough. Otherwise, this building was only for commanding and he lived in other wide residence. There is no further information. We suppose if there was no information, the planner of these reconstructions won't make imaginative additions.

According to the information board, second floor was used for meetings. The lord invited his allies to this fine view room. We can climb the steep ladder this time, and appreciate the 360-degree view. And Asuke town is located far side of the forest, that was a post town in the Ina road (connecting Suwa and Okazaki, two big towns at that time). We agree the Suzuki clan's decision when he chose this mountain. Asuke town would be the source of his wealth.

The Hon-maru bailey

The historical impact

We researched the information about the number of the Suzuki clan's servants and the width of their territory. However, we can't find it in neither hand-out we get at this sightseeing facility nor other information source such like books in libraries. If we dare to mention one information, it says 'the Matsudaira clan invaded the Suzuki clan's territory by 2000 soldiers and the Suzuki clan became under control of the Matsudaira clan.' So, we suppose the number of his soldiers was the scale would not be enough to resist 2000 invading soldiers. 

The two-story tower and the Nagaya

On the other hand, there is no vestige of battles in the castle area from the result of the excavation. So, the Suzuki clan might not fight against the invader and became under the control of them. The Suzuki clan came under the Matsudaira clan during 1560's, and they moved to the Takeda clan at the beginning of 1570's. After the battle of Nagashino (1573), the Takeda clan moved backward from the Asuke region, so, they moved to the Tokugawa clan again. (Tokugawa Ieyasu, the head of the Tokugawa clan changed his family name from Matsudaira to Tokugawa at 1566.) Later, the Suzuki clan changed their territory according to his master's immigrate in the Kanto district. After a while, the Asuke castle was abolished.

Around the Asuke town, there were several mountain-castles.
Some of them were also excavated and some research are progressing. Why so many mountain-castles were built around the Asuke town? We have no answer but we suppose they were for the defense of the town.

If the mountain-castles acted properly when the Matsudaira clan's soldiers came to invade, the Suzuki clan could go through with the defense. This was too serious to people at the scene, they wanted to avoid wars, even if they had strong fortresses. As the result, this castle didn't appear on the stage named the Japanese history. We can't assume that it's unfortunate or right decision for them.


The Excavation (from a information tiled borad)

The excavation survey was conducted at the site of the Asuke Castle Remains from 1990 to 1992. An excavation survey of a castle that stood in the mountainous region during the periods of Muromachi up to the Sengoku Period is uncommon in Japan. During wars, castles were built in mountainous regions for the purpose of serving as a fort. The Asuke Castle, however, seemed to have been a castle of residence, as seen from the pillar holes found in each bailey (Kuruwa), suggesting that some residential buildings stood across the castle ground, while the unearthing of many utensils for daily use, tea utensils, writing items, and imported items such as white porcelain also supported this theory. Clearly distinct remains of buildings found were in Honmaru (main bailey), Minami-no-maru (south bailey), Kita Koshi-kuruwa (north waist bailey) 1, Kita Koshi-kuruwa 2, and Nishi Monomidai (west watchtower). All the buildings were post-in ground structure. A cornerstone of a building was found in the Honmaru Koshi-kuruwa (main waist bailey) 3. A bridge, well and waterway, connecting Honmaru and the Minami Monomidai (south watchtower), were also discovered.

Damine castle

Three interesting matters will be delivered in this article.

The first is descriptions of castle locating, shape and method during the latter half of the Sengoku period.
In the middle, we introduce an unique museum atop of the castle mountain, and it's worth looking.   
In the final, the battle between Oda Nobunaga and Takeda Katsuyori, and influence over the Damine castle.

There is a museum atop of the castle mountain

Shitara town (where the Damine castle is located) is on the way to Kyoto city when a famous Sengoku Daimyo, the Takeda clan went to Kyoto from their second important military base, Suwa city in the Sengoku era. 

In addition, the Takeda clan's headquarters was in Kofu city (Yamanashi Pref.), and that was quite far from Kyoto, so they made Suwa city their second military point when they came to make inroads into Oda's territory. 

Until a little while before, Oda Nobunaga had been in the Kiyosu castle (Aichi Pref.) and he had ruled this narrow area only, so the Takeda clan had allied with him to fight against their common enemies. However, Nobunaga's influence expanded rapidly, and he moved to the Gifu castle, as the result,their alliance was reversed and they became do-or-die rivals.

View of the castle mountain

The Damine castle had been a borderline castle between the Takeda clan and the Tokugawa clan (Tokugawa was an ally of Oda). So this castle had never spotlighted until the big war between Oda and Takeda. 
Furthermore, quite same as other same-sized castles around there. If we're forced to say, this castle is a typical example of rural, borderline castle. And further research of this castle, how to choose locations and how to build the whole area may be important for the study of some academic.  


The Damine castle nowadays

To begin with, let's identify its location. This castle is located in Shitara town in the present era. This town's position is approximately 40 kilometers away from the Pacific Ocean, and in the mountain area. The coastal area is not flat, and flat area is narrow and soon the mountains will appear. When we travel around, only arterial roads are trustworthy and rural community roads are full of danger. Even though the road seems to be the right direction, we lose the way, hundred percent. So, only locals can access these roads. This theory was also same during the Sengoku period, this region was incomprehensible for the outsiders.  

Looking up the top of the castle mountain

The Damine castle was built by a rural lord who ruled minor mountainous area around there, the Suganuma clan. This point where the castle was located was a strategically important. Because there was the Sakude path near the castle site. The Sakude path was an important path as one of several from Shinsyu district (the Takeda clan ruled area) to Okazaki district (the Tokugawa clan ruled), these paths were only accessible routes for the aliens. The Suganuma clan understood the importance of this area, so they made one of their castles there. 

The basin where the castle was belonged was hidden without using a drone or something. The current route to the castle is bellow. First, we find the Kansa river which starts in Shitara town and empties into the Pacific Ocean. One of current arterial road runs along this river. At the nearest point on the road, we get sidetracked.

The sidetrack goes up to a mountain. On the top of the mountain, the Damine castle is located, covered by many tall trees. So, we can't find it until we reach the entrance of the castle. According to a brochure, the distance from the starting point of the approach ramp to the castle's entrance is approximately 500 meters. However, this ramp is a zigzag mountain path, so we need 30 minutes if we walk up. On second thought, this castle's site is a corner of the basin, and covers the approach ramp to the area.    

Inside of the castle mountain

The castle itself is an aggregation of small tiered flat spaces. Every part of the mountain scraped off to the tiered suitable shape, every space used as defensive facilities, stock yards, living place and so on. Now, we can only see tiered flat spaces covered by green, plantation of some agricultural products, and woods. So, we feel difficulty for finding the border lines of the castle. According to a map in a researchers document, its longer direction is approximately 300 meters, and its shorter is approximately 200 meters. The hill top area is the widest flat, and a 50 meters to 30 meters of elliptical shape. 

This mountain castle is different from other same kind of ruins. Because there is a museum at the hill top. This museum was built in the Shoinzukuri architectural style which was typical for the samurai residences during the Sengoku period. It looks like a historic architecture, however, it was made in 1994 (25 years ago). 25 years made it look like a historical building, and the atmosphere is also just looks like original. However, it's not the original.  

If the original remains, the scale would be a half or more small. Because this area had many functions not only a residential but defense or so. So, this building is not genuine as its scale in the first place. However, this realistic replica looks like a faithfully rebuilt architecture, so we were honestly moved when we visited. 


Residence using a plan of 'Shomei' 
(a secret technical advice book for a carpenter in the Sengoku period)

The reason why this museum is improperly big scale is a preexist resident plan. Generally, people decide plan of the buildings according to the scale of the construction sites. But if there was a quite attractive plan and the construction site had enough scale. Somebody jumped at the chance to realize an attractive old plan, we suppose. 

Appearance of the museum

Then, what was an attractive old plan? That was a plan in the 'Shomei' book. 
'Shomei' is the secret technical advice book for certain master carpenter at the end of the Sengoku period. 

At that time, famous master carpenters were true geniuses, they had to make buildings as quickly as the owners' wish. And also, their clients didn't have architectural knowledge. So, they had to create the finished forms according to a little information of the imagination of their clients. Furthermore, their clients were almost dangerous Sengoku lords.

Even though they were true geniuses, they couldn't make these buildings so many and so quickly. Then, they prepared in advance. That was a secret technical advice book.

Map of the main area

The resident plan written in 'Syomei' was almighty. It had minimum necessary rooms, and one more important point was that it followed all architectural rules at that time. 

Model plan (from original 'Syomei')

In this example resident plan, there were almost all rooms which average Sengoku Daimyos came up with for their new residences. So, the carpenter master had only to add an additional room to this example. 

A professor's rewrite version 

More important viewpoint was the proportion. The carpenter master considered if he added an extra room, whole proportion would follow the rules or not. And if his client hoped a wider main room, he could change the whole proportion according to the rules. By almighty plans and sense of proportion written in 'Syomei', he could decide his new product blueprints in his brain. 

Blueprints were called 'Kiwari' in this era. That means how to cut or how to connect is the essence of the beauty of all buildings. The scale of the room specify how big would be the size of the pillars, and how many tatami mats would be placed. So, the carpenter master could follow the rules of the architectural beauty. These rules expand the range into roofs, ceilings, doors, windows, so, every part of the building. They are very similar to the golden ratio in the western world.

By the way, this museum building was made following these proportion rules, so its appearance is very nice. However, there is some point we can't accept. 'Syomei' was the proportion rule book basically, so, the appearance is okay as long as the constructor follows this book. But, how about the parts which consist every item. For example, the thickness of the planks. Open verandas is made of thick planks. But the thickness is not same as other originals we visited some other day. They seemed to follow the basic rules in this rule book, but the rules were only basic and not described in detail. 

Details should be decided by the carpenter master himself but the rule book. We suppose actual carpenter masters at that time decided the elements' volume a little thicker. Maybe they had another experimental knowledge or other external factors caused the originals' element. In comparison, this museum's elements are slightly thinner. So, it's pity that we feel something not genuine in this building. 

From a professor's drawing

Same side of appearance

From here, we want to describe our opinion a little. Many historical sightseeing places are going to be reconstructed using their original method to utilize their features effectively. People have a common understanding if they use fake method, visitors can detect their lies. So, many newly made facilities are also good condition. Regarding this museum, the designer seems to learn 'Shomei' and try to realize its spirit. If it was possible, collecting examples from survived similar residences would be necessary. We dare to mention our disappointment.


Value of this site

Mountain castles were made by cutting slopes, digging holes and embanking. Usually they didn't have stone walls. Several huge and important ones had. Looking-back this mountain castle, it would not have stone walls. Furthermore, because it would not have stone walls, it also didn't have earthen walls in the hey day. 

Dry moat

We suppose the Damine castle had only earth banks and dry moats. It was covered by earth banks and palisades to avoid enemy soldiers. 
And basin side slopes were gentle, so, they decided it's difficult to cover this side even though there was an additional dried moat. So, the lord regarded the whole basin area was the defense perimeter of the castle site. And main defensive attack would be planned at the entrance of the basin where soldiers could look down the only path into the inside from the castle-enclosures. They could attack the enemy above them. 

The main gate of the main enclosure was placed on the road side corner. We can't look its downward enclosures because of the trees. As long as we learn from a document, only several enclosures were there. So, the main gate was only a symbol of the castle we suppose. 


The battle between Oda Nobunaga and Takeda Katsuyori

The Oda clan's territory was the western half of Aichi Pref. nowadays. And the Takeda clan's was Yamanashi Pref.. So, they did not need to fight for expanding their territories, because the distance was too far to have a competitive relationship.

Oda Nobunaga

In the last few decades of the Sengoku period, a new code was set which was the lord who came to Kyoto to help the Shogun would become the number-two of the Shogunate. The lord who firstly successed was Oda Nobunaga. After a while, the Shogun dissatisfied Nobunaga's behavior which looked like a ruler himself, so he ordered other lords to come to Kyoto to alternate. The highest probability lord was the Takeda clan. And the Takeda clan had the desire to alternate the position of Nobunaga.    

The Takeda clan began to attack Oda's territory to visit Kyoto, because Oda's territory was an obstacle of the Takeda clan's advance. Takeda Shingen commanded the Takeda army. He was one of charismatic commanders, so his army was considered supremely strong. If he had lived a little more, he might have beaten Nobunaga, become a new number-two, and entered a new phase. However, before the fatal battle, he died of illness. So, Nobunaga had to fight against a new opponent, Takeda Katsuyori (Shingen's son).    
  

Tkakeda Katsuyori

Katsuyori commanded the Takeda army with the cherished desire of the late Singen. He aimed Kyoto again. Then, his army battled with the Nobunaga's near the Nagashino castle. It was called the battle of Nagashino, and it was one of very famous battles during the Sengoku era. Katsuyori believed that his army's cavalry corps was the strongest, and there was no lord who didn't know its reputation. Eventually, Nobunaga's innovative spirit overwhelmed Katsuyori's belief. The new weapon named 'Teppo' or Arquebuses beaten previous strategy. 

(We described this scene in our another article, so please check that.)    

If you want to know more about the history of Arquebuses in Japan and about 'the battle of Nagashino'.
Go to 'Arquebuse 1'




Sorry for keeping you wait for a long time, and the Damine castle made it appearance here. Again, the Suganuma clan was the lord of this castle. They were one of borderline lords, and they had betrayed the Tokugawa clan's group 5 years before this battle happened. So, they fought with the Takeda clan's. 

The battle field is 30 kilometers inland from a coastline, and now located in the Shinsiro city. The Takeda army escaped separately to a mountainous region. Because they had many castles as advance military bases there, and a supply route from Suwa city (their second important military base) to the coastline of the Pasific Ocian. Katsuyori, the commander of the army moved with the Suganuma clan's group, and they aimed the Damine castle. Maybe Sugamuma had the trust and confidence of Katsuyori.

From the watch tower

However, they had a situation! The Damine castle's soldiers betrayed their lord, and they denied their master to enter the castle. They had been hoping to belong to the Tokugawa clan's army in their hidden mind. Katsuyori and Suganuma went to an another castle, and Katsuyori arrived at the Suwa city safely. 

The Damine castle and the Suganuma clan became historically famous by a shameful internal trouble. After the incident, several internal conflicts and tragedies happened, but these were small incidents from a historical perspective. After that, the Takeda clans collapsed, and the Damine castle's lord was changed, and finally the castle was abolished.