The Guide Board

We see many 'Guide Boards' in historic sightseeing spots in Japan. Most of them are bilingual, Japanese and English. In some remote sightseeing spots, people concerned don't expect visit of foreign tourists and they make the things only in Japanese. On the contrary, many do expect foreign tourists, so they prepare the bilingual guide boards. Recently, we also see many Chinese guide boards as well.

We aren't concerned with Chinese, so we would like to consider the differences of Japanese guide boards and English guide boards. You may ask they explain same information, so there would be no difference. However, there are differences. Then, what kind of differences are there, and why these differences occur? We will describe below. The pictures are low image resolution. If you want to compare by yourself, please visit the historic sightseeing spot actually.

     

We thought if we categorize samples, it will help your understanding. At this point, we are predicting 2 types of factors.

1. Describing Japanese using 'Roman alphabet' causes mistakes for the translators.

2. English explanations are written by another person.

To understand why we categorize into these 2 types, please read our explanation of samples.

   
We will describe the samples below.
(1) The name of the historic sightseeing site
(2) The title of the guide board
(3) We want to explain what was happened.

No.1: Describing Japanese using 'Roman alphabet' causes mistakes for the translators.

Sample 1-1

(1) Verkehr Museum 
    (We visited this museum to write the article named 'Sengoku battle ship.' It's located in Shizuoka Pref. Shizuoka city.) If you want to visit 'Sengoku battle ship' click here.
(2) Kobaya ship model: Japanese title is '小早.'
(3) The title in English is described as 'Kobaya' but the body is described as 'Kohaya.' In our understanding 'Kobaya' is correct and 'Kohaya' is a careless mistake. If there is a differentiation, we are very sorry about our lack of knowledge. However, is it possible the difference of the title and the body?

Sample 1-2

(1) Hamamatsu Castle
    (We don't make the article about it as of right now. We want to do it if we have a chance.)
(2) The Castle Tower Bailey (Tenshuguruwa): Japanese title is '天守曲輪.'
(3) The title in English is described as 'Tensyuguruwa' but the body is described as 'Tensyukuruwa.' Usually, 'Tensyuguruwa' is correct and 'Tensyukuruwa' is wrong. We can easily suppose why this kind of mistakes happen. When you read '曲輪,' you will pronounce 'Kuruwa' because there aren't other words before that word. But, when '天守' connect, the pronunciation of '天守曲輪' changes into 'Tensyu-guruwa.' 'Ku' change into 'Gu' in this situation. (For your information, when you read '早,' you will pronounce 'Haya,' but '小' connect and the '小早' is pronounced 'Kobaya.')

Sample 1-3

(1) Hamamatsu Castle
(2) The Characteristics of the Castle Tower: Japanese title is '天守曲輪の石垣の特徴.'
(3) 'Irizumi': Japanese word is '入隅（いりすみ).'
'Dezumi': Japanese word is '出隅（ですみ).' 
'Watori': Japanese word is '輪取り（わどり).'
In this case, when you pronounce '入隅,' 'Irizumi' and 'Irisumi' are okay, so, you can choose each pronunciations. (We omit the explanation of '出隅' and '輪取り.')

When you write kind of difficult words which pronunciation are special, you can add 'Furigana.' 'Furigana' is a special description to support your understanding how to pronounce. So, in the Japanese text describes 'Furigana' in these three words. According to the Japanese text,

'入隅' should be read as 'Irisumi(いりすみ)' instead of 'Irizumi(いりずみ).' 
'出隅' should be read as 'Desumi(ですみ)' instead of 'Dezumi(でずみ).' 
'輪取り' should be read as 'Wadori(わどり)' instead of 'Watori(わとり).' 

Special words written by the roman alphabet in this English text are written avoiding Japanese 'Furigana' system. 'Furigana' system is the system full of kindness. We can't understand why the translator avoid this kind system, we suspect he don't know this system.

No.2: English explanations are written by another person.

Sample 2-1

(1) Verkehr Museum
    (We visited this museum to write the article named 'Sengoku battle ship.' It's located in Shizuoka Pref. Shizuoka city.) If you want to visit 'Sengoku battle ship' click here.
(2) Atake ship model: Japanese title is '安宅船.'
(3) Our attention is focused on the sentence, 'Atake ships were disassembled.': Japanese sentence is ' 安宅船は御座船に造り替えられた.'

We guess the English sentence is historically correct and the Japanese sentence isn't. If we translate the Japanese sentence according to the expression, it will be 'Atake ships were remodeled to Gozabune (御座船).' In Japanese history, the owner of Atake ships were ordered to disassemble by the Tokugawa shogunate. So, if you want to use the word, 'Gozabune,' you should describe 'The smaller ship, 'Gozabune' were newly made,' for example. In this case, we think the translator knows well Japanese history, so he changed the sentence a little. And the Japanese text writer maybe didn't write additional sentences because of 'word limit.' He should write ' Atake ships were disassembled and the smaller ship, 'Gozabune' were newly made.'

Sample 2-2

(1) Hikone Castle
    (We visited this castle to write the article named 'Sight Words: Hikone Castle.' It's located in Shiga Pref. Hikone city.) If you want to visit 'Sight Words: Hikone Castle' click here.
(2) Monument of Life of a Cherry Blossom: Japanese title is '花の生涯記念碑.'
(3) Our attention is focused on the sentence below.
The glittering sand stands for a flurry of fallen petals. : Japanese sentence is 'キラキラと輝く砂は雪をあらわす.'

The English text is the translation of the Japanese text. So, 'fallen petals' is wrong and the word should be 'snow.' But there is a very difficult historical fact. You should learn the historical drama which led to the creation of this monument. The hero of this drama, 'Ii Naosuke (井伊直弼) was assassinated in 1860. That was the climax of the drama. Then every Japanese history lover knows, when he was assassinated at the Sakurada-mon (桜田門), it was heavy snow around there. In this drama, the heavy snow and the flurry of fallen petals were the same metaphor of his fleeting life. The gross outline is okay, but as the translation, it's a mistake.

Sample 2-3

(1) MOA Art Museum
    (It's located in Shizuoka Pref. Atami city. 'Golden Teahouse' replica is also exhibited in Osaka Castle. That is the other version from the same historical information. We mentioned in the article 'Temple of Shogunate 2.' ) If you want to visit 'Temple of Shogunate 2' click here.
(2) Golden Teahouse, Tea Ceremony Stand, and Utensils: Japanese title is '黄金の茶室・台子・皆具.'
(3) The sentence we focused on is a little long.
The utensil stand, charcoal brazier, kettle, fresh water jar, ladle holder, waste water jar, kettle lid rest, tea whisk, and wiping napkin -in short, nearly all the utensils for tea ceremony were made of gold. : Japanese sentence is '茶筅・茶巾のほかは台子・風炉・釜・水指・杓立・建水・蓋置など点茶道具すべてが黄金づくりであった.'
    

The point is what were made of gold. According to the Japanese sentence, almost were gold instead of 'tea whisk' and 'wiping napkin.' But English sentence describe 'nearly all the utensils for tea ceremony' were made of gold. We worried that you misunderstood  'tea whisk' and 'wiping napkin' were also made of gold. For your information, the sentence describes what were made of gold. Then you had better have the comparison chart of tea ceremony utensils.

Utensil stand: 台子
Charcoal brazier: 風炉
Kettle: 釜
Fresh water jar: 水指　
Ladle holder: 杓立
Waste water jar: 建水
Kettle lid rest: 蓋置
Tea whisk: 茶筅
Wiping napkin: 茶巾

While searching, we found another kind of samples. That is Japanese text is long and detailed but English text is short and right to the point.

Sample 3-1

(1) Nagoya Castle
    (We visited this castle to write the article named 'Nagoya Castle' and 'Revisit Nagoya Castle Castle.' It's located in Aichi Pref. Nagoya city.) If you want to visit 'Nagoya Castle' click here. If you want to visit 'Revisit Nagoya Castle' click here.
(2) Nagoya Castle Hommaru Palace: Japanese title is '名古屋城本丸御殿とは.'
(3) The Japanese text is quite long but English text is quite short. We will list up the contents only explained in the Japanese text.
A) The Hommaru Palace was constructed on the order of Tokugawa Ieyasu(徳川家康).
B) In Kanei(寛永)11, 1634, the Jorakuden(上洛殿) was expanded as the Onarigoten(お成御殿) of the Shogun.
C) It was very famous as the prestigious(格式高い) palace.
D) The original was burned together with the main tower.

What we'll talk about is our personal opinion with no basis.

A) Because person who concerned had the bias Japanese tourists were fond of the historical hero such as Tokugawa Ieyasu.
B) The Onarigoten(お成御殿) and the Jorakuden(上洛殿) are kind of technical words, so it's a little difficult to explain these technical words. 'Was expanded' is quite additional information, so if he would, he should explain the historical background. 'Kanei' is a Japanese-specific era name, general Japanese don't know 'Kanei.' All in all, it's too difficult to translate and rewrite in English, so he gave up.

C) '格式が高い' is a word of Japanese taste. (Japanese like these kind of expressions.) If we tried to translate to English, 'prestigious' or 'high formality' would be the candidates. ('Kakushiki(格式)' means status, lineage and position. And 'Kakushiki ga takai(格式が高い)' means high status, good lineage and high position.) We think this expression would come into Japanese people's favor, but when it comes to foreign tourists, can they understand? So, the expression was omitted (we suppose).
D) Japanese used to think if the Hommaru Palace was burned, then the main tower was remained or was also burned. So, person who concerned previously wrote the additional information. But, for the translator, sudden appearance of the word 'the main tower' was not welcome. So, the expression was also omitted (we suppose). 

       

Sample 3-2

(1) Verkehr Museum
    (We visited this museum to write the article named 'Sengoku battle ship.' It's located in Shizuoka Pref. Shizuoka city.)
    If you want to visit 'Sengoku battle ship' click here.
(2) Sekibune ship model: Japanese title is '関船.'
(3) This case is the same as the previous one. The Japanese text is long and English text is short. We will list up the contents only explained in the Japanese text.
A) Sekibune(関船) ships didn't have enough offensive and defensive power in comparison with Atake ships (安宅船).
B) The old time small model had been donated to Shinsyo-in (信松院) temple in Hachiouji (八王子) city. This bigger model was made with reference with the Shinsyo-in's model.
C) The ship was '42 Cyodate (42挺立て)' and armor of the 'Souyagura (総矢倉) was bundled bamboos instead of heavy planks.
D) The name of Sekibune came from the ship which had been used by pirates of medieval Japan as the ship collecting the private toll tax. The name Seki (関) means a checkpoints to collect a toll tax in the old time of Japan.

     

It's also our personal opinion with no basis.

A) This comment is a commonly accepted theory with no basis. So, the translator omitted this comment when he had to shorten the total word count.
B) We think the detailed reasoning is important, so the translator should describe it. But, if he explains the the place 'Shinsyo-in' located in 'Hachiouji,' he should explain 'why there is' and 'where there is.' These explanations of authenticity are endless for foreign tourists. On the other hand, majority of the Japanese tourists don't care about the authenticity. If there are long explanation and many difficult words, it's enough. But they prepared the detailed explanation and someone could explain in case of some nerds asked the detail. The Japanese guide board writer don't afraid of these quite detailed explanation.     
C) The mean of '42 Cyodate' is '42 oars.' This ship equipped 42 oars to row. The mean of 'Souyagura' is 'whole area of upper part.' These words, '42 Cyodate' and 'Souyagura' are technical words, so we suppose, not so many Japanese can understand. However, the reason why these technical words were described is same as 'B).' 
D) The explanations of 'pirates in the medieval Japan' and 'system of the pirates' toll tax' are quite difficult. So, the translator omitted the explanations when he had to shorten the total word count. 

These are not everything we found. However, the more we try to explain plainly, the more we have to explain additional words. Then we decided to stop writing this article here. We would like to increase samples in the future. 

  

 Critical castle for Tokugawa

Turret like Museum

The other day, we visited the Yoshida castle (吉田城) in Toyohashi city (豊橋市). This castle isn't huge nor historically impressive. But, there's something special in the history of this castle. This castle isn't famous now, so, it will be shrouded in the darkness of history. We would not to be. Below, We'll describe how important this castle was.

The first story: Location

The history of the Yoshida castle is closely interacting with the history of Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康). Many incidents in his life were connected with the existence of this castle. At first, Tokugawa Ieyasu was born in the place called Okazaki (岡崎) as the son of the Okazaki castle's lord. After many twists and turns, he conquered the area around the Okazaki district. West of the Okazaki district was governed by Oda Nobunaga (織田信長) in the Owari (尾張) district. East of his district was controlled by Imagawa Ujizane (今川氏真) in the Sumpu (駿府) district. 

Around the north, there weren't typical ruler and several small scale Samurai Warriors were active in their small territories. And the point we would like to stress is the existence of the ruled area of strong Takeda Shingen (武田信玄). If say that again, Takeda Shingen was active in the further north of these Samurai Warriors' territories.
  
And one last direction, south of the Okazaki district was also controlled by many small scale Samurai clans. However, beyond that was the pacific ocean, so, there weren't enough space to widen his territory this direction. 

Tokugawa Ieyasu's strategy was clear. He allied with Oda Nobunaga and attacked other areas. At first, he attacked southern area of Okazaki and after that he targetted the clans in the east. The clans living in the north of Okazaki constantly feared that each strong powers north and south. If Tokugawa Ieyasu who lived in the south of them invaded their territories, they obeyed him. But after that, Takeda Shingen who had the ruling area in the north of them attacked their territories, they betrayed Tokugawa Ieyasu and obeyed Takeda Shingen. As for Tokugawa Ieyasu, he wanted the expansion of stable ruled area to the north, but betrayal after betrayal, he couldn't gain the stability in the north. 

These situation was continued a little long time, and when the power of the Imagawa clan turned down, he gained extensive effort in this direction. He invaded these areas and conquered the areas  up to the Hamanako lake. The Hamanako lake (浜名湖) is very huge and at that time it separated the Mikawa (三河) district and the Ensyu (遠州) district. So, he succeeded to unified the Mikawa district. 

The request from the ally was to continue the invasion and beat the Imagawa clan. He agreed with the request and went beyond the lake. He advanced into east of the lake. He chose Hamamatsu (浜松) and started to build a castle, his new front-line base instead of east of the lake where he could easily retreat in case of emergency. This decision would also be the answer of the request from Oda Nobunaga.

North of Hon-maru

The second story: Course of events

We'd like to summarize the course of events. The headquarters of Tokugawa Ieyasu was the Okazaki castle (岡崎城). Its location was the west end of his long-and-narrow-from-east-to-west territory. And the Hamamatsu castle (浜松城) where he himself advanced was the east end of dominating region. 

He had two strong points at the western edge (the castle lord was his son) and the eastern edge (he himself was the castle lord). However, there wasn't typical defense fortification in the center of his ruling area. And he had to remember the threat from the northern area. In the northern area, there weren't immediate threat. But once the Takeda clan started attack, many small scale domestic clans would betray him and strike his territory. 

There weren't many strategies for Tokugawa Ieyasu who was placed such a situation. He couldn't abandon the Okazaki castle. Then, he decided to enforce the Yoshida castle which was located around the center of his dominant area. For your information, Oda Nobunaga abandoned his headquarters several times when his territory was widen. His decision was quite drastic. On the contrary, Tokugawa Ieyasu couldn't decide such drastic decisions. In our opinion, Oda Nobunaga order such drastic decision to Tokugawa Ieyasu, but we don't know the truth. 
 
The Yoshida castle was chosen because of the access to each important castles, the Okazaki castle and the Hamamatsu castle. In the area around the Yoshida castle, there were many castles which had been around. So, Tokugawa Ieyasu would chose whichever he liked, he could renovate an existed small castle to a larger castle or he could build a brand-new castle. The Yoshida castle's location was suited for his request (accessibility), so, the renovation of this castle was chosen. One other reason was landscape of this castle. There was a immediate threat of the Takeda group, and he thought even if it happened this castle was available to prevent the invasion. 

Turret like Museum from other side

The third story: Renovation

In this course of events, the Yoshida castle was renovated by Sakai Tadatsugu (酒井忠次) who was the most powerful chief retainer of Tokugawa Ieyasu. As for Sakai Tadatsugu, he had many concerns. Because the most important strategic point for Tokugawa, the Hamamatsu castle was still constructing. So, he couldn't use his desired number of labors. He had to consider the number of people and the materials for the construction. On the other hand, if the strongest hypothetical enemy, Takeda came to attack the Yoshida castle, violence of attack would be beyond imagination.

The original Yoshida castle before Sakai Tadatsugu renovated would accommodate several hundreds. And expected scale of attack would be up to several hundreds soldiers. However, if Takeda's army came to, it would occur with high probability, they needed to accommodate at least several thousands to defend. So, the renovation was kind of larger.

And we would like to continue considering a little more, Sakai Tadatsugu guessed the possibility of the invasion larger than ten thousands troopers or not? Maybe he did consider, maybe he didn't consider. The truth is hidden in the shadows of history.

By the way, can Tokugawa Ieyasu or he, Sakai Tadatsugu defend this area from the fierce invasion of Takeda Shingen? Historically, the invasion was happened. And according to somebody's internet article, over ten thousands troopers sieged this castle. 

One article describes that the invasion happened in 1571. Takeda Shingen and his armies advanced into around the Yoshida castle. He intended to cut the line of supply between the Okazaki castle and the Hamamatsu castle. 

Another article describes the invasion a little differently. It was happened in 1574 and Takeda's army was led by Takeda Katsuyori (武田勝頼; Shingen's sun). Shingen died of desiese.

The details of the battle was below. Sakai Tadanasa removed to the branch castle of the Yoshida castle. And he and his army battled with the advance troops of Takeda's army. During the battle, Tokugawa Ieyasu led his 5000 troops and they entered the Yoshida castle. In this battle, Sakai's army was heavily damaged and around 500 people died. Additionally, Tokugawa's was also tortured and around 2000 people died. However, they entered the Yoshida castle.By the result of the battle, Takeda's army avoided long time siege and they moved back north.
     
We would like to examine which opinion was true? If the battle happened in 1571, why the battle wasn't explained the relation with the famous 'Mikatagahara-no-tatakai (三方ヶ原の戦い) ' battle happened in 1573. And also, if it happened in 1574, why they didn't mention the famous 'Nagashino-no-tatakai (長篠の戦い)' battle in 1575. We think the battle at the Yoshida castle wasn't so big scale. In any case, the battle at the Yoshida castle wasn't fatal. So, these famous battles progressed without the relation with the Yoshida castle.

However, if the Yoshida castle was captured by Takeda's army, the Okazaki castle and the Hamamatsu castle were separated. Then, the incident would cause corrosion of Tokugawa's. And it would be more serious. Because it might lead to the destruction of Tokugawa. So, this castle was very important. In other words, it was the critical castle for Tokugawa's army.

Landscape model of the Hon-maru area

Present days…

We visited the remain of the Yoshida castle. If you visit there, you can appreciate Hon-maru area (本丸 ;the center circle of the castle) and other area. Old times castles were composed of several enclosed areas...If you want to know more, please visit the article, 'The Sumpu castle' 

The building is only a historic museum outside is like a turret at that time. This turret's like museum is also like the main tower of this castle. So, the whole atmosphere is exactly like a remain of the castle of samurai period. However, at the San-no-maru (三の丸 ;the third circle of the castle), very massive Toyohashi city hall is located. So, the main tower's like museum looks a little small size, it's a pity.

Actually, we don't have the key to solving the mystery what's like the Yoshida castle at Sakai Tadatsugu days. There weren't any drawings at that time. This castle was widely renovated by Ikeda Terumasa who had become this castle's owner. Remains, such as layout of the whole castle area, stone walls were made at Ikeda Terumasa days. Furthermore, written informations were drawn after that time.

We think if you know the circumstances when Ikeda Terumasa came to this castle, you will understand some difficult situation. And you may somehow agree with the reason why these information were missing. In 1590, Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉) became the ruler of Japan and Tokugawa Ieyasu became the top retainer of him. And also he was ordered to change his dominant territory from the Mikawa district to the Edo district. Then many Toyotomi's samurai warriors for a long time were given dominant territories in the Mikawa district.

As for Ikeda Terumasa, he was given the Yoshida castle and wide dominant territory around this castle. So, he started renovation of the castle. He wanted to reconstruct the castle fit for his given huge power. 

The stone walls around Hon-maru were made during or after the Ikeda Terumasa's day. There is no information before the Ikeda Terumasa's day, for example, whether stone walls were there or not is not clear. However, the layout was same, which was intended to defend the center area, Hon-maru with wide river in the north of Hon-maru. And, to defend with several enclosed areas such as Nino-maru, Sanno-maru other directions.

And, we think there was the difference between Sakai's and Ikeda's. When Sakai Tadamasa renovated this castle, it was thought that enemy came from north-east. So, he strengthened the north-east district with branch castles. And Ikeda Terumasa's enemy was thought Tokugawa Ieyasu who was having dominant territory in the Edo district. If Tokugawa Ieyasu attacked this castle, his army would come from south. So, he made many defensive devices in the south of this castle. We suppose this point is the most important difference. We don't know other things.

 

Stone wall reconstruction site

        
Mending stone walls in the site…

The Hon-maru area was surrounded by stone walls and the landform was square. And, it seems like there were turrets all four corners. Why we can say that, a landscape model of the Hon-maru is exhibited in the museum. 

The remained stone walls around the Hon-maru area are starting to collapse. Because the preservation of these remains were not enough. The new situation of the inbound of foreign tourists caused the city clerk's mind change. They decided to call in the foreign tourists by maintenance of attracting facility, the Yoshida castle. The maintenance over several years was planned. And reconstruction of a stone wall near the main gate area of the Hon-maru was finished last year.

 
When we visited, a stone wall in the north of the Hon-maru was being reconstructed. The stone wall was beside the stairs to the river side. So, we couldn't wall down to the riverside walk. But it's a surprise for us. It's the first time to look at the craftsmen who have the skill to build old time stone walls. 

Only from the scene of reconstruction, we can't gain any information. So, we searched it on YouTube and found a video describes the research results of the reconstruction. By this video, the stone wall reconstructed last year was already reconstructed several times. The stone wall was planned and firstly constructed by Ikeda Terumasa. But the stone wall collapsed was reconstructed by some castle lord (unidentified at the time). Other evidence would be needed, but by the researcher who is explaining the reconstruction was held several times in the Edo period.

It would be maniac to visit the Yoshida castle in Toyohashi city. But if you are historical geek, worth trying.

L L B C (13)  Salt field 

🗾   L's Life in a Big City  (13)   🗾

The Kira (吉良) town was a center of a salt industry in the Edo era. Salt was produced at the salt fields (塩田) placed near the coast. It was carried to the Suwa lake (諏訪湖) lake in Nagano Pref. passing through Okazaki city and Asuke (足助) town. The route was called the Sanshu Way (三州街道). We suppose the Way was developed by the item essential for life, salt. 

If you want to know about Asuke, we mentioned something in the article 'Asuke castle.' 

Please visit.

We remember a old time incident, the Nagashino War (長篠の戦). Takeda Katsuyori (武田勝頼) marched from the Suwa lake to the Nagashino castle in Shinshiro (新城) city using the Sanshu Way. The reason of the march of Takeda Katsuyori might be the salt produced in the Kira town. Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康) based in the Okazaki castle might be advantageous situation because of the salt produced in the Kira town.　The salt was fatal product for the every living things. 

If you want to know about the Nagashino War, we mentioned something in the article 'Arquebus 3' and 'Damine castle.' 

Please visit.

The way to produce salt is a complicated process as below. At first, people deliver sea water on the sand all around the huge salt field. And the strong sunlight dries the sand. Then the sand on the salt field became quite salty, or became to contain a lot of salt. People gather the surface sand at one place. And they put them on a huge pot, and add sea water on them, and boil down them until they lose water. After the boiling down, they gather the boiled surface juice which has high concentration of salt. They continue this cycle several times. When the surface juice lose whole water, it became the pure salt. Then, they finally produce pure salt from the sea water.

    

You can learn these things at the Kira-aibajio-no-sato (吉良饗庭塩の里) museum.  https://www.aibajio.jp

At the museum, we can experience a demonstration of salt producing. If you want to join it, you should call 10 or more attendees. The reason we suppose is because the work would be such hard labor. Furthermore, you should also submit the demonstration at 10 days in advance. The participation fee is 500 yen per person at the moment. One more additional information, when it becomes rainy day, you can't do the outdoor actions.

 L L B C (12) Garden park

🗾   L's Life in a Big City  (12)   🗾

At Hamanako Lake in Shizuoka Pref., there's the botanical garden named 'garden park.' From April 6th to June 2nd in 2024, the event called 'Hanahaku' is held there. During the event period, you can enjoy so many beautifully decorated gardens there.

And the site is unbelievably wide and countless spring flowers are fully blooming now. There are dozens of gardens decorated in kind of western style, if you ask the style for me but I don't know the style exactly. 

 

Entering the entrance gate, you'll find spacious area like plaza. You can eat lunch which you brought, and if you didn't bring, looking around, you can find several food stalls. In the center of the park, wide canal is lying down. So, the gardens covered with pale-blue flowers are beyond the shining water surface, very attractive.

In the deeper area, you can find elaborated theme gardens which remind us various countries. Such as Chinese, Tibetan, Indnesian, Austrian…of couse Japanese. Every gardens are decorated gorgeously and impressively.

In the deepest position, you'll find 'Impressionist's garden' and countless types of flowers are blooming all at once. And also, you'll find a pond which reminds us Claude Monet's pictures. You can stroll around the pond and you'll find many good places to take photos.

   

We visited there without background information, however, we fully enjoyed. 

One thing that we regret is that we couldn't get around whole sites in one day.

Sail all around Japan: part 3 (final)

 Sail all around Japan: part 3

As we have written in a previous article, we've arrived at the Kagoshima (鹿児島) port, southern end of Kyushu (九州). And also, we have met a very important merchant, Mr. Hamasaki (浜崎氏). The Hamasaki merchant group had wide maritime routes. These routes were west-Kyushu costal line from Kagoshima to Northern area, north-Kyushu and Japan-sea lines to Hakodate (函館) in Hokkaido (北海道). These maritime routes were wide enough to cover our reckless plan.

Although they were one of merchants patronized by the Satsuma-han (薩摩藩), they were a private company. They maintained constant large-scale shipping activities by their decisions. That is the most reassuring thing, because in case of emergency, they can decide their own decisions. We will roll up our sleeves and go as long as we can. And we would like to focus on the route around Hokkaido as soon as possible.

The Satsuma-han (薩摩藩) was considered to be one of the great power (powerful rural governments) in the Edo period. This great power protected the Hamasaki merchant group from the regulations of the central government or "Bakufu(幕府)" and rural governments (諸藩). And it ordered trading and maritime cargo shipping of it's own produces.

We are surprised by the fact that Hamasaki group (浜崎家) visited far north region like Hokkaido (北海道). Having said that, we think we slightly understand the possibility. Because we agree the fact that the Satsuma-han's power was overwhelming other rural governments in the Edo period.

By the way, we would like to explain a little about the maritime cargo in the Sea of Japan (日本海). The cargo ships sailed in the Sea of Japan were called "Kitamaesen (北前船)." These cargo ships started Osaka and visited Shimonoseki (下関), and leaving Shimonoseki, they sailed costal routes of the Sea of Japan to Hokkaido. And after the arrival at Hokkaido, they sailed opposite way. 

The Sea of Japan was difficult to navigate for the cargo ships at that time. However, many merchants tried to enter this business. Because, if they succeeded to enter the business, they could earn quite many fortune.

So, we think the Satsuma-han couldn't keep looking silently, and stuck their noses where the plenty of fortune was there. We think we've mentioned a little sarcastic comment. Therefore, we should leave off around here, because they give fortunate for us, we should say thank you for them. 

Then the story continues like this.

A cargo ship which departed the Kagoshima port (鹿児島港) stops at the Nagasaki port (長崎港). This port locates north-west region of Kyushu (九州).

By the way, why the Hamasaki group had their branch at the Nagasaki port? The reason was that they maintained the trade with foreign countries.

Officially, Japan avoided trade, but actually Japan engaged in trade with the Netherlands and China. And, the Nagasaki port was famous as the only international port to these countries.

The trading ships from the Netherlands visited the Nagasaki port, and the trade between the Netherlands and Japan was flourished there. However, the volume of trade between China and Japan was 9 times larger than the volume between the Netherlands and Japan.  

If we mention the trading products of the Satsuma-han, they exported many seafood and ceramics called Satsuma-yaki (薩摩焼) to China. And also the Satsuma-han was active to the Netherlands. The Netherlands imported gold, silver, copper and camphor or "Shono (樟脳)" from Japan. And this camphor was exclusively exported from the Satsuma-han. The Dutch East India Company shipped camphor as the fragrances to their homeland. The Hamasaki group was involved in this trade and shipping between the Satsuma-han's territories to this port. 

Then, what was the connection between the Nagasaki port (長崎港) and the Shimonoseki port (下関港) ? And, between these ports and "Kitamaesen (北前船)" which sailed in the Sea of Japan (日本海)? That was kelp (one of seaweed) or "Konbu (昆布)." Large amount of kelp was exported to China from the Nagasaki port. And the kelp was produced in Hokkaido (北海道). So, the maritime cargo merchants shipped kelp produced in Hokkaido to the Nagasaki port. Moreover, the merchants group from Nagasaki had the branch at Hakodate (函館) in Hokkaido. Because the trading of kelp was big business at that time.

We suppose that the Hamasaki group (浜崎家) also had the route from Hokkaido to Nagasaki. And they carried the products gathered at Hokkaido to the Nagasaki port using the maritime route in the Sea of Japan. In this way, we traveled Nagasaki, Shimonoseki, and Sado (佐渡).

The reason we got off the Hamasaki's cargo ship at Sado was to find another cargo group here. And that cargo group was called Zeniya (銭屋). The Zeniya group had established in Kanazawa (金沢). They engaged the maritime cargo business mainly in the Sea of Japan. And they had 34 branches in Osaka, Edo and all around Japan. They engaged not only the western maritime route (from Hokkaido to Osaka) but also the eastern route (from Hokkaido to Edo). 

Then the story continues like this.

We find the Zeniya's cargo ship and ride it. It sailed to Hakodate (函館) in Hokkaido (北海道). At this point, it becomes necessary to explain the special circumstances of Hokkaido.

Hokkaido was the region ruled by indigenous people even in the later Edo period. Only around 3 towns, Hakodate (函館), Matsumae (松前), and Esashi (江差) were ruled by Japanese. The rural government governed this area was called Matsumae-han (松前藩). Other area was not governed by any people except the indigenous people.

However, from 1855, the settlement of Japanese began. Because some foreign countries such as Russia and USA began to invade this area. Bakufu (幕府) allowed settlement then, but living in Hokkaido was prohibited before then. So, the cargo ships had visited many area in Hokkaido, but these were temporary stopping for the trading with indigenous people.

Especially in Hakodate, many "Kitamaesen (北前船)" merchants such as Zeniya (銭屋) opened their branches. And majority of the Kitamaesen merchants stopped only 3 towns, Hakodate, Matsumae, and Esashi. They bought products which were gathered by Matsumae-han's employees. And also sold many goods they carried from Osaka or ports of call on the way. Several merchants visited Otaru (小樽), which is located at west coast of Hokkaido and a little north of Esashi. So, for the usual Kitamaesen merchants, Otaru was the north end. 

If so, how we sail off the coast of Cape Soya which is the north end of Hokkaido? And we need to continue the sailing further. Are there any cargo ships which bring us around Hokkaido? It might be the core problem of this adventure. We will consider the problem in the next chapter.  

The true reason we focus on Zeniya (銭屋) is there. Several maritime cargo merchants based in Hokkaido were active in other places around Hokkaido. So, they sailed off the coast of west Hokkaido and visited many west coast towns such as Otaru (小樽) and Rishiri (利尻). They sailed off the coast of Cape Soya (宗谷岬). And also they visited several towns around Nemuro (根室).

Let's check the locations. Hakodate (函館) is located in the southern end of Hokkaido. And Nemuro is in the eastern end. When you sail from Hakodate to Nemuro, the route traveling the east coastal line of Hokkaido is shorter than the west coastal line. So, if there are 2 routes, you would be better to chose the east route. However, there were many ports for trade in the west route.

To tell the truth, we didn't find records of individual cargo routes. But we think there's high possibility that both routes (the west route and the east route from Hakodate to Nemuro) were existed.

Our voyage is held using these routes.

We land Hakodate and change the cargo ship. The cargo ship travels to the Otaru port, the Rishiri port, the Nemuro port, and go back again to the Hakodate port. Then we complete the travel around Hokkaido.

The reason we go back to Hakodate is the uncertainty of the direct cargo route to Edo. We have an information that the cargo merchants of the Sendai (仙台) port were visited around the Nemuro port. So, we can have an extra plan. The extra plan is that we will land the Nemuro port and change cargo group there, who came from Sendai. However, we don't have any information about the Nemuro port at that time.And also we don't know how often the cargo ship from Sendai visited the Nemuro port then. Furthermore, we don't know how many inn were there in the Nemuro port at that time.

At the worst case, we may stay at the Nemuro port a year or more. And we may not find inns or other places to rest in this town. So, we chose a secure route immediately.

 

We chose Zeniya's (銭屋) eastbound cargo ship from the Hakodate (函館) port. We moved to the Aomori (青森) port on the opposite shore, and the Sendai (仙台) port, the Choshi (銚子) port. From the Choshi port, we sail Boso Peninsula and go around it to the Uraga (浦賀) port. We have checked by the government there, and land around Nihonbashi (日本橋). 

We have landed Edo (江戸) again, and completed our reckless adventure!

We don't know the actual adventurers who tried this kind of travel. Our travel is sometimes conveniently for the plot. But, we hope you can agree if you have opportunity you can travel all around Japan using maritime cargo route.

During the travel from Edo to Osaka, we can describe the travel days with some degree of authenticity. However, after the departure of the Osaka port, we cannot. According to a book, shipping on the Sea of Japan was usually from Spring to the beginning of Autumn, and during Winter, no cargo ship could sail there. If our travel delayed and Autumn come when we are around Nagasaki or on the Sea of Japan to Hokkaido, we may get stuck around there. If so, we may need to stay there hole one year.

Lastly, we are happy because Japanese weren't stuck in homeland but at least around the homeland they sailed freely. The route-range was only around the homeland but they tried highly motivated trials. Then, after the feudal era, they soon became one of maritime powers.

Bye!