Nagoya castle
Our journal visiting Nagoya Castle biggest in Toukai district.
The gist is as follows:
(Walls are decorated with drawings rich in real gold)
2. The main tower reconstructed by SRC.
(Facade is same as the original.)
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| Newly replicated sliding doors |
The Nagoya castle has the great main tower and the residence of the Lord. These are both reconstructed one but they were well researched and surprisingly identical to the original. And, there are newly replicated brilliant wall paintings and sliding doors in the residence. That's the pride.
It's located approximately 150 kilometers from Osaka city in an eastly direction. We aim the Nagoya castle this time. Transit time from Osaka to Nagoya is 1 hour or so by the Shinkansen train. The castle site is 2 kilometers away from Nagoya station (We had a little difficult to find the right way).
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| The main tower |
At the beginning, we want to remember the history of the Nagoya castle. This castle was made by the Tokugawa family, and was developed when they tried to destroy the ex-ruler, the Toyotomi family and to become the next ruler. Nagoya was a boundary point of the Tokugawa family and their enemies. So, they thought this castle would be very important, and they made it with all of their potential.
Because of the situation they emphasized its protection, it was made defensive. In addition, they focused on its enormousness and beauty. They wanted to show their suitableness as the next ruler.
By the way, when Japanese people began to enjoy inland tour around 100 years ago, this castle soon became a very famous sightseeing site. And it was registered the first national treasure. But structures in this site were burnt down by the disasters from WW2.
When peace came after WW2, many citizens hoped the revival. The main tower was reconstructed by the method of steel-framed reinforced concrete in 1959. And they hoped another feature, so, the Hon-maru residence reconstruction began in 2009 and the completion is scheduled at June 2018. The Hon-maru residence is almost completed, and we can explore a large part of it now.
When peace came after WW2, many citizens hoped the revival. The main tower was reconstructed by the method of steel-framed reinforced concrete in 1959. And they hoped another feature, so, the Hon-maru residence reconstruction began in 2009 and the completion is scheduled at June 2018. The Hon-maru residence is almost completed, and we can explore a large part of it now.
The Hon-maru residence was burnt out by the disasters of WW2. However, most of sliding doors and paintings used inside were rescued from loss. They were evacuated by selfless devotion of brave city clerks at the very time bombs fired buildings.
Thanks to that, sliding doors and paintings of the newly reconstructed residence were restored perfectly by the information from the originals. (The originals are stored somewhere in certain museum.)
Visiting it, we have a look of the gorgeous interior which is a little too glistening and brand-new as a historical place. However, we appreciate this beautiful building where a rich clan had lived once.
New project is going to start, which aims reconstruction of the main tower by wooden structures. We suppose there is success of the main residence reconstruction behind this new project.
Based on it, the current main tower (made by SRC) will be closed on May 7th 2018. And the new reconstruction by wooden structures will start after that.
Before hearing this new project, we didn't think the main tower made in 1959 was so important. But we had a second thought and we decided to visit SRC Nagoya Castle main tower again before it was destroyed. That's the reason we visit this castle.
Hon-maru residence
When you visit Nagoya, Shinkansen train is the most convenient. You can choose an alternative plan, a private train line, Kintetsu Nagoya Line. If you use this line, you need double transit time. Then, it's popular using the Shinkansen train in spite of its expensiveness.
The way to the castle will be subway, it's convenient. The nearest station is "City Hall". You also need to transfer at least one time. So, you may want to check a route map before riding subway.
Going out of the exit, you will notice a parking lot of this castle. (Several restaurants recently opened between the subway entrance and the parking lot, and it's called Kin-shachi Yokocyo.) And next to it, you will find stone structures and dry moats which are remains of this castle. Your expectation may be inspired, but it's not so majestic. If you want to look at plausible significance, you have to enter the central area or Hon-maru compound.
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| The entrance of the main residence |
Going out of the exit, you will notice a parking lot of this castle. (Several restaurants recently opened between the subway entrance and the parking lot, and it's called Kin-shachi Yokocyo.) And next to it, you will find stone structures and dry moats which are remains of this castle. Your expectation may be inspired, but it's not so majestic. If you want to look at plausible significance, you have to enter the central area or Hon-maru compound.
This castle was consisted by several rectangle compounds, which were called Nino-maru, Nishino-maru and Fukai-maru. And these compounds surrounded, and guarded Hon-maru from enemy's attack. These several compounds were called the inner facilities of this castle. And southern suburb was a wide compound named Sanno-maru. At that time, there was a residential area of senior retainers. Thus, it had multiply wide castle field.
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| The original |
Sanno-maru is turned into a public office district. And, Nino-maru, the second largest compound was mainly used as a public gymnasium. Its northern half is kind of a garden park and the southern half is occupied by a large public gymnasium. So, in these areas, there aren't respectable historical buildings now.
Then we are going to Hon-maru compound. The entrance of this district is called the Omote-nino-mon or the front number-two gate. It is covered by the Tounan-sumi-yagura or the east-south corner turret.
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| Interior of the main residence |
The rute after the gate turns right, and there is the entrance of the main residence. We can watch the main entrance, however, it is closed. We can't enter here.
There is an another entrance on the east side called Waki-genkan or the side entrance. This side entrance is the entrance for us, tourists.
The Hon-maru Goten or the main residence was mainly used for the Shogun's stay when he dropped in.
The Shogun was the ruler of Japan and the Lord's clan of the castle was a retainer of him in Edo period. The Lord's family lived in an another residence which had been made in Nino-maru compound (outside Hon-maru).
The custom that only special people can use the front entrance has been traditional in Japan not only this residence but also many temples. Many temples had special gates only for the high ranking people for example Emperors and Shoguns.
By the way, this residence is still under construction. And the completion is scheduled for June 2018. We can see this facility only partly. It's a pity. Furthermore, there are scaffolds and covers partly. We don't want to see them around our main feature.
The Hon-maru Goten or the main residence was mainly used for the Shogun's stay when he dropped in.
The Shogun was the ruler of Japan and the Lord's clan of the castle was a retainer of him in Edo period. The Lord's family lived in an another residence which had been made in Nino-maru compound (outside Hon-maru).
The custom that only special people can use the front entrance has been traditional in Japan not only this residence but also many temples. Many temples had special gates only for the high ranking people for example Emperors and Shoguns.
By the way, this residence is still under construction. And the completion is scheduled for June 2018. We can see this facility only partly. It's a pity. Furthermore, there are scaffolds and covers partly. We don't want to see them around our main feature.
In spite of this negative side, once enter the building, we can enjoy gorgeous interior.
Historically, it was used not only as a living space for the people who had been specially selected, the Shogun. And before the renovation during the Edo period, this residence was used as a reception space where people had the audience with the Lord.
Then, the interior was decorated brilliantly in order to show off the power and the dignity of the Lord.
Walls of each room and sliding doors were decorated by the pictures which were drawn by the distinguished drawers at that time.
We want to describe several rooms below.
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| Omote-shoin |
Walls of each room and sliding doors were decorated by the pictures which were drawn by the distinguished drawers at that time.
We want to describe several rooms below.
Two rooms located in front of the main entrance are Machiai or the waiting rooms. In these rooms, tigers and leopards were drawn on every wall.
And next three rooms after a wide hallway are Omote-shoin or the main reception rooms. These rooms are the most important space. So, receptions and official functions were held there.
Next of Omote-shoin, other beautiful roomes called Taimen-jo or the rooms the Lord received his relatives are there. Other rooms which haven't been published are still in the sealed book.
We remember the exploration of the Kakegawa castle's residence. That was an original and that had not only the front and deluxe rooms where the Lord lived but also the practical and modest rooms where lower-class retainers worked. However, in the Nagoya castle's residence, we can't appliciate the backside such as a kitchen.
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| Omote-shoin |
Next of Omote-shoin, other beautiful roomes called Taimen-jo or the rooms the Lord received his relatives are there. Other rooms which haven't been published are still in the sealed book.
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| Taimen-jo |
We remember the exploration of the Kakegawa castle's residence. That was an original and that had not only the front and deluxe rooms where the Lord lived but also the practical and modest rooms where lower-class retainers worked. However, in the Nagoya castle's residence, we can't appliciate the backside such as a kitchen.
You will see front stage where too many brilliant and gorgeous interior elements are there. "Is it a true historical place?" Somebody in our brains whispers, however, it's great and you can catch rich in pageantry of Daimyo (the Lord) culture in the Edo period.
Main tower (SRC construction)
A signboard notifies the closing of this SRC facility by several languages. That says the closure is scheduled for May 7th.
And it will be destroyed and the new main tower by wooden structure will be made after that.
We suppose that there were a lot of discussion and after that this decision was determined. However, citizens in 1959 eagered to reconstruct current SRC main tower and many citizens loved it very much. It's difficult to investigate when the citizen's mind changed. At this point, we are pity and it's not necessary to be reconstructed we think.
This main tower wasn't a wooden structure like the original, but its surface is exactly same as the original. Because there are many records of it. If we compare the stocks of the records with other Japanese castle main towers.
This main tower wasn't a wooden structure like the original, but its surface is exactly same as the original. Because there are many records of it. If we compare the stocks of the records with other Japanese castle main towers.
Other reconstructed main towers usually don't have enough records. Speaking of this main tower, the planners had excessive documents, photos and drawings and they had strong self-confidence that they would be able to reproduce the same appearance as the original.
They had many advantages.
They had many advantages.
First, drawings which had been drawn at the very time the original main tower had been made have been left in the chief carpenter's house.
Second, officers of Owari-han or the Lord's servants had written deliberate records throughout the Edo era. So, they had the records during entire the Edo era.
Third, the original main tower had been remained until the end of WW2. Unfortunately, the original was burnt caused by an air raid, however, it had been remained after the Edo era until the disaster. In this timing, many castles ordered to be destroyed, but this castle luckily survived (Only Himeji Castle and Nagoya Castle were rescued from this order).
Fourth, this main tower was designated as a national treasure and was preserved well. And also it was well investigated by many researchers and there are many research results, copy drawings and photos.
Third, the original main tower had been remained until the end of WW2. Unfortunately, the original was burnt caused by an air raid, however, it had been remained after the Edo era until the disaster. In this timing, many castles ordered to be destroyed, but this castle luckily survived (Only Himeji Castle and Nagoya Castle were rescued from this order).
Fourth, this main tower was designated as a national treasure and was preserved well. And also it was well investigated by many researchers and there are many research results, copy drawings and photos.
Citizens loved and wanted to reconstruct the main tower soon after the end of WW2. So, as mentioned earlier, it was reconstructed in 1959.
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| Inner allay |
There is the small main tower in front of the great main tower. The entrance of this connected main tower is there.
The small main tower was reconstructed together with the great main tower.
We have no information how this small main tower was used when it was made. But it is only used as a lavatory and the entrance hall of it now.
This building has four stories in hight and wide space. However, we can't enter the upper area. It's a pity.
After the small main tower, we go to an outdoor area or an alley sandwiched by earthen walls. There is the mouth of the great main tower in front of us. This great main tower has 6 stories and 1 underground floor. That is same hight as dozens of floors building nowadays. So, people at that time had thought kind of a skyscraper and also it was considerably high for the people lived in 1959.
The highest floor is an observatory. Except for this floor, every floor was used as an exhibition space. From an underground floor to the top, you can watch so many exhibits.
After the small main tower, we go to an outdoor area or an alley sandwiched by earthen walls. There is the mouth of the great main tower in front of us. This great main tower has 6 stories and 1 underground floor. That is same hight as dozens of floors building nowadays. So, people at that time had thought kind of a skyscraper and also it was considerably high for the people lived in 1959.
The highest floor is an observatory. Except for this floor, every floor was used as an exhibition space. From an underground floor to the top, you can watch so many exhibits.
When you look this tower from the outside, it's difficult to think about the width of it. However, you clearly become to realize the width until you climb up from the first floor to the highest floor.
The architects' models and drawings of the main residence are exhibited in one floor. And in another floor, new main tower's models, drawings records and new research results are displayed.
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| From Nagoya Castle HP |
The architects' models and drawings of the main residence are exhibited in one floor. And in another floor, new main tower's models, drawings records and new research results are displayed.
After the renovation, there would be less exhibition space. We think it will be a big problem. Oops, it's none of our business!
One last thing, there is the gap between exhibition spacelike interior and the historical appearance being influenced by abundant records.
Other places
There is an elevator which support people's easy access outside of the great main tower. A side road to the north gate is beside of it. We go past beside the elevator and aim the northen area through Fumei-mon or the north gate.
One last thing, there is the gap between exhibition spacelike interior and the historical appearance being influenced by abundant records.
Other places
There is an elevator which support people's easy access outside of the great main tower. A side road to the north gate is beside of it. We go past beside the elevator and aim the northen area through Fumei-mon or the north gate.
We enter another compound named Ofukai-maru. In this compound, Seihoku-sumiyagura or west-north corner battle tower is remained. This tower is original. We can't enter this building. There aren't other notable facilities around there.
Huge space is covered with enclosure plates of the construction site for the main residence. The construction is scheduled to finish within the next half years. However, the next big project, reconstruction of the main tower will start soon after the completion of the main residence. Maybe these places will be used continuously.
Development of environment also continues.
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| Seihoku-sumiyagura |
Huge space is covered with enclosure plates of the construction site for the main residence. The construction is scheduled to finish within the next half years. However, the next big project, reconstruction of the main tower will start soon after the completion of the main residence. Maybe these places will be used continuously.
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| Opposite side of Seihoku-sumiyagura |
Development of environment also continues.
Nishino-maru is also changed into the construction site. There are tall enclosure plates around the site. The atmosphere is not like a comfortable citizen's park.
We have no choice but go back to Nino-maru passing through the open space in front of Hon-maru. Nino-maru area is only a huge park and no remains there.
Opinions about reconstruction in 1959
We found a book described the records of construction work of the SRC main tower in 1959. This book was written by a local newspaper company when the SRC main tower was completed. It had carried stories of construction work during the work had been continuing.
Opinions about reconstruction in 1959
We found a book described the records of construction work of the SRC main tower in 1959. This book was written by a local newspaper company when the SRC main tower was completed. It had carried stories of construction work during the work had been continuing.
For us, it was a great discovery to find this book. Because it described information to understand how Nagoya citizen accepted this big event.
We found the sentence below. "The beginning of this construction work was the basement work which was called "Caisson method" and it was buried 28 meters underground of the main tower." So the stabilization of the giant main tower was very difficult and they had to dig 28 meters long to bury the basement.
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| Main tower's frames |
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| Small tower reconstructing |
We already described the issues of the new wooden castle tower of the Kakegawa castle. If we make a new wooden castle tower in the upper part of the structure, it's not same as wooden castle towers of the Sengoku period.
Points were especially a basement. The basements made by reinforced concrete were not same technically at the Sengoku period. We think the word "reconstruction by wooden structure" includes unintentionally next supplementary information that "the upper part is made by wood but a basement is made of a high tech material."
Earthquake disasters happen many times in Japan. Then buildings which don't have strong basements are easily destroyed by the vibrations of the earthquakes. So "the safety standard of building structures" orders to make strong basements. To catch up with this standard, reinforced concrete basements are absolutely necessary.
We think "safety of buildings" is very important. So it's okay to use reinforced concrete basement for safety. But how do you think superstructures? If it's made pillars and beams with same size of the Sengoku era, it's difficult to complete "the safety standard of building structures".
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| Basement of the main tower |
Earthquake disasters happen many times in Japan. Then buildings which don't have strong basements are easily destroyed by the vibrations of the earthquakes. So "the safety standard of building structures" orders to make strong basements. To catch up with this standard, reinforced concrete basements are absolutely necessary.
We think "safety of buildings" is very important. So it's okay to use reinforced concrete basement for safety. But how do you think superstructures? If it's made pillars and beams with same size of the Sengoku era, it's difficult to complete "the safety standard of building structures".
So, the main tower which is made at the present time is not same as the Sengoku era. We suppose size of pillars and beams
will be bigger than the original to meet the safety standards.
Finally, the Nagoya castle has many records of the original including the members of pillars, beams and many materials. So it's difficult to ignore the correct size of the original.
If the planner chose the way to reproduce dimensions of the original, he has to keep safety regulations in the other field. We suppose that will be materials, for example, non-traditional processing to strengthen the wooden materials. Are these woods? Isn't that too too much? We are afraid of the future of Japanese castles.
will be bigger than the original to meet the safety standards.
Finally, the Nagoya castle has many records of the original including the members of pillars, beams and many materials. So it's difficult to ignore the correct size of the original.
If the planner chose the way to reproduce dimensions of the original, he has to keep safety regulations in the other field. We suppose that will be materials, for example, non-traditional processing to strengthen the wooden materials. Are these woods? Isn't that too too much? We are afraid of the future of Japanese castles.
Many main towers of Japanese castles are reconstructed ones. Other articles with respect to this fact are...
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