Guardian shrine of Kyoto

 Guardian shrine of Kyoto 

On the southwest of the Kyoto Basin, Iwashimizu Hachimangu (石清水八幡宮) Shrine is standing at the top of the Otokoyama (男山) Mountain (143 meters high). It had been protected the unlucky direction (south-west) of the Kyoto city. This direction also called the back demon gate. 

Another unlucky direction called the main demon gate (north-east) had been protected by the famous shrine, Hieizan Enryakuji (比叡山延暦寺). For your information, Hieizan Enryakuji was a complexed domain where the temple called the Enryakuji and the shrine called the Hiyoshi-jinnjya (日吉神社) coexisted. 

So, once, Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine was one of the main two protection points around the Kyoto City.  

According to the HP of this shrine, it was established at A.D. 859 (around 1160 years ago). And especially worshiped by the imperial families, such as emperors (天皇), retired emperors (上皇) and monk-emperors (法皇) during the early 900s. So, many imperial families visited and worshiped at that time.

Additionally, this shrine was considered the guardian deity of the Genji (源氏) clan. The Genji clan was one of very famous families in Japanese history. Minamotono Yoshiie (源義家) (1039-1106) who was a very famous person at that time. And, this shrine was used as the place of his coming-of-age ceremony (元服式).

After the ceremony, he became a 'big man' with huge military power. So, this shrine is proud of having been the place of Minamotono Yoshiie's coming-of-age ceremony. Because this historic event happened, the Genji clan and their extended families worshiped this shrine. As a result of their strong supports, this shrine flourished. 

One more historically famous clan, the Heike (平家) clan also respected this shrine. So, this shrine was treated very respectfully in any generation. Until here, we mentioned the official history this shrine wanted to show off. However, there are many historic events happened around this shrine and its HP wants not to describe. 

This shrine mainly appeared in the Japanese history during the Nanbokucho (南北朝) era (1336-1392). Because the power game at that time happened around the Kyoto city. And the location of the shrine was convenient for the players of the power game.

In more detail, the Southern Court (南朝)'s military forces and Ashikaga Takauji (足利尊氏)'s military group struggled each other. In their battles, they changed their situation many times. At some point in time, one of them defended the Kyoto city and another point in time the situation changed.

Each time the players of the power game switched their position, the invaders' side garrisoned in this shrine. Because it had high military utility value, the location which was outside of the south-west end of the Kyoto city. And it is also located at the top of the highest hill around there and surrounded by the Yodo river (淀川) and the Oguraike lake (巨椋池). So, it was very good for defense. Commanders of the invader-armies considered that this place was the best for the station. 

For example, Ashikaga Takauji's army stationed here in 1336. Then, the Kyoto city was occupied by the Southern Court's military forces and his army was the invader's side. He commanded his army from here and won the battle. He welcomed an important retired emperor, and the event determined his victory.

If you stand in his place, you can advertise your high contribution for his victory. But this shrine doesn't mention Ashikaga Takauji's victory. Why? Because Ashikaga Takauji's victory means the Imperial Court army's defeat in a sense. Especially before the WW2, Ashikaga Takauji was considered the villain who went against the Imperial Court. So, the shrine still avoids the story of him. 

One more example, the Southern Court's army stationed here in 1352. This time the Southern Court's army invaded the Kyoto city, and Ashikaga Yoshiakira (足利義詮) (son of Takauji) escaped there. However, Ashikaga Toshiakira's army recaptured the city. The Southern Court's army removed to the Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine. Ashikaga Toshiakira's army won the battle against the Southern Court's armies, the shrine captured by Ashikaga Toshiakira's army and many buildings were burned.

Like this example, the shrine was burned many times.

The current buildings were reconstructed by the help of the Edo shogunate (江戸幕府) in 1634. The way of the appearance is called the Hachiman-zukuri (八幡造) construction method. Many of the buildings were registered as the national treasure.

(10 buildings are registered as the national treasure and 8 are important national asset)