Temples of Shogunate 1
Kyoto city is famous as an ex-capital of Japan, but it has another historical aspect. Once it was a center of a samurai government. Only few Japanese come to their mind that there was a center of a Shogunate in Kyoto.
Where was a center of "Bakufu" or a shogunate in Kyoto city? And what name the Shogunate was called? We think this topic is a little heavy for Japanese history beginners. However, we dare to investigate it.
The word "Bakufu" means a military government. And "Bakufu" was organized by "Shogun" who was designated by the emperor. The bottom line is that the emperor is the superior if you ask which is.
However, if "Bakufu" was established once, it became to work out policies, and the power of "Bakufu" tend to be stronger practically. If there're different opinions between an emperor and "Bakufu", they endorsed by the people who steer the nation, most often that was "Bakufu". In Japan's long history, "Bakufu" fought against emperors sometimes.
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| Tenryu-ji temple |
"Bakufu" or the Shogunates were established only 3 times. We think the Edo Shogunate is a little famous. It existed until the Meiji Restoration (approximately 150 years ago). And the center of the Edo Bakufu was in the Edo castle (Edo is now called Tokyo).
Then, what was the Shogunate at Kyoto? It was called "Muromachi Shogunate". "Muromachi" town is still existing in present-day Kyoto. It's near the Doushisya university's campus in northen area of Kyoto. However, there aren't any remains now.
In this blog, we have been writing some articles about the Sengoku era. We think it's not necessary to explain the context (in another word, the Chronology). However, this time, we take up a comparatively not-famous era. So, we believe that is important to review previous articles a little.
The Muromachi Shogunate was established approximately 700 years ago. The Muromachi era was the previous of the Sengoku era. Himeji castle, Hikone castle and Matsumoto castle were the military facilities which were built during the period after the Shogunate's downfall. These castles were made in a period of a switchover of political power. In a sense, the high tension in the atmosphere of this era was the mother of beautiful early modern castles. Hence, they are affected by the collapse of the Shogunate.
And in the next theme named "Arquebus", we explained arquebuses had been imported during the Sengoku era. This era was a time of confusion. So, this new weapon was craved among many Sengoku warriors. If there wasn't the collapse, this weapon was not used in such large quantities.
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| Arquebus |
Then, where is the destination of our exploration searching "Muromachi Shogunate" or the Shogunate at Kyoto? Were there castles in this era? The appearance of "Yamajiro" or mountain fortresses, forerunners of the early modern castles was a little later the Sengoku era continued. Then there weren't castles in the Muromachi era. Accordingly we can't use the keyword "castle" in this article.
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| Entrance gate of Tenryu-ji |
The period when "Muromachi Shogunate" established, many new temples were made simultaneously. Then we can chose the word "temple" especially Zen-temples as the keyword of this article. And many political facilities of the shogunate were also made in this period. We mean old Kyoto was destroyed and the new Kyoto was constructed at the precise moment.
As a matter of fact, Kyoto of these days was reconstructed by the government on a large scale. Many of buildings according to this redevelopment still exist and are famous among tourists.
We will visit "Tenryu-ji" in Saga-arashiyama area, "Myoushin-ji" in Hanazono area, and "Kinkaku-ji" in Kitayama area. These are very famous among the Zen-temples which were established in this era.
Bakufu
Edo Shogunate
Muromachi Shogunate
Tenryu-ji (Saga-arashiyama)
Myoushin-ji (Hanazono)
Kinkaku-ji (Kitayama)
Go to Saga-arashiyama
We are going to visit Saga-arashiyama first, because it's the nearest of our selections. Now, "Tenryu-ji" is famous for its beautiful autumn leaves. And also it is famous for the connection with the Muromachi Shogunate. Before starting this story, we will check the way of getting around.
There are several transportation systems from Osaka to Kyoto. If you think "Time is money," you should choose JR railway. But in our opinion, Kyoto is wide enough and each destination has each suitable way to visit. Accordingly, when you visit Saga (the west side of Kyoto), Hankyu private train is the most appropriate system we think. Conversely, if you want to visit Gion (the east side of Kyoto), Keihan private train is more convenient than other railways.
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| Hankyu-arashiyama station |
It's better to choose Hankyu super-express train from Osaka to Saga-arashiyama. Because JR train might be more convenient than other private train systems, on the other side, private train systems are more reasonable.
In conclusion, we choose Hankyu Kyoto Line and Hankyu Arashiyama Line to the Hankyu Arashiyama station. And you can choose a express-train of no additional fare.
Model route is bellow.
Umeda station (Hankyu station at Osaka) ⇒ (Hankyu Kyoto Line) ⇒ Katsura station⇒ (Hankyu Arashiyama Line) ⇒ Arashiyama station (50 minutes)
You need to transfer at Awaji station in some case, in this instance you spend more time. It depends on the timetable.
How is JR train for comparison?
Osaka station ⇒ (JR Kyoto Line) ⇒ Kyoto station⇒ (JR Sanin-honsen Line) ⇒ Saga-arashiyama station (50 minutes)
You need to choose the rapid train. In this case, you need no additional fare. When you use the JR railway and choose the right train, you will get to Saga-arashiyama station less than an hour. However, the expense is overrated.
"Tenryu-ji"
Hankyu Arashiyama station is in the south of Katsura river. Then we go up to the north of it. In front of the station, there is a tall mountain and half way up to the mountain is Hourin-ji temple. From its appearance, it looks like a temple with a long and honorable history. But, we have another purpose this time, so, hurry on our way.
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| Togetsu-kyo bridge |
The area to the north side of the river has been beautifully developed. We went across a bridge over a tributary of Katsura river. North side of it is a park. It's good for tourists. One of the reason is there are many lavatories. And another reason is the view of the Togetsu-kyo bridge is very beautiful. If you have a time, you should rest there.
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| Sign of the bridge |
There are not so many tourists. We suppose majority of the tourists will come in autumn, because this temple is famous for beautiful autumn leaves. Back to reality, tourists around us are all international. We are very surprised. From Hankyu Arashiyama station to "Tenryu-ji" is 15 minutes or so by walking.
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| The stone monument of "Tenryu-ji" |
The entrance of "Tenryu-ji" faces the west side of the north-south broadway we are walking. And there is a big stone monument, and on it, calligraphy of the name, "Tenryu-ji" engraved.
We go along the entrance way to the main building, which is called "Houjo" that is in the deepest place of this temple.
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| Houjo of "Tenryu-ji" |
There are over a dozen of small temples called "Tattyu" along the entrance way. These small temples belong to big temples. We don't know the reason, but we heard that they are residences of people concerned with "Tenryu-ji".
The entrance gate is at "Kuri" building which is connected with "Houjo" or main building by corridors. "Kuri" building's surface is at a gable roof side. By contrast, facades of other temples are usually parallel to ridges. This style is typical only among "Zen-syu" temples we suppose.
Focusing on its detail, its wide wall is plastered pure white and a symmetrical pattern of pillars and beams makes impressive facade. This pattern is symbolic design of "Kuri". We are going to see a very similar "Kuri" at "Myoushin-ji" a few hours later.
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| Kuri of "Tenryu-ji" |
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| Kuri of "Myoushin-ji" |
To the best of our memory, "Zen-dera" is a temple where Zen sect members learn Buddhism. And very important difference between Zen-buddhisim and other is that they don't need statues of Buddha. For example, "To-ji"temple has many great size of, great many of statues of Buddaha and his surroundings. We don't see any of them in "Tenryu-ji".
"Sanpai-ryo" or entrance fee (contribution offering); 500yen/1adult (Garden only) or 800yen/1adult (Garden + Houjyo)
Time to enter; 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Summer time: 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.)
Closed; Random (depend on functions)
It is very important information that temples aren't sightseeing places. We can experience very similar impression, but it's not the same. You should appreciate opportunities to enter these temples. Temples say their opening time "time to enter." not "open" like shops or so.
The contribution offering for a temple is called "Sanpai-ryo" and it's not same as "Nyujyo-ryo" or entrance fee. It's quite same as the entrance fee in reality, however, we hope you understand a little difference in these two words. When Japanese use the word "Sanpai," they respect the place they are going to enter. They behave more gentle and polite. Even though "entrance fee" is the most appropriate translation of "Sanpai-ryo", the Japanese word has a meaning of contribution offering.
We know some Japanese also behave disrespectfully in temples. However, please play gently you are. It's your heaven-sent time, so please have respect for them. You need not to do anything special. When you visit your hometown church, you will respect it. That's same.
Katsura-gawa river
Arashiyama park
Togetsu-kyo Bridge
Houjyo
Tattyu
Kuri
History of "Tenryu-ji"
The Muromachi Shogunate constructed many temples and they were all Zen-dera or the temples of the Zen sect. Especially Tenryu-ji was the memorial one which it made as the first national project.
But there was another reason for the establishment of this temple. This Shogunate was fighting against the political power of Emperor Godaigo at that time. Having said that, Emperor Godaigo was a great hero, so Asikaga Takauji, the founder of the Shogunate decided to mourn by building the new temple for him, when the emperor died. However, this decision was decided by the respect to the great hero.
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| Wooden statue of Emperor Godaigo |
It's very sudden but, please remember a French history. The timing of establishment of Tenryu-ji was a hundred years before the activities of "Joan of Arc". You might be aware that "Joan of Arc" was killed for the reason she was a witch. In old time people believed the existence of witches and witch-huntings even in Europe.
A similar tendency was seen in Japan at the Muromachi era. People believed that evil consequences would cause the world by dead people especially who had the strong political power in their lifetime. So, Ashikaga Takauji was afraid of the power of Emperor Godaigo strongly. That was the true reason he decided to build the temple.
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| Garden of "Tenryu-ji" |
One more historical placement was that a new ideology of Buddhism was imported from China a little before this era. Ashikaga Takauji and his successors promoted this new ideology, "Zen-syu" monks took some high class positions in the government. They especially assumed political advisers.
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| Musou Soseki was one of famous garden planner |
Building of Tenryu-ji was decided by the strong influence of them. Musou Soseki was one of the political advisers and the most powerful. Then, his advice was played the most important role in the decision.
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| Hatto of "Tenryu-ji" |
Most of the fire had occurred during the Muromachi period. And the most recent one was happened in the modern period, approximately 150 years ago. That was caused by a very important historical happening, the Kinmon incident which made almost Kyoto city a burnt-out area. This incident happened a little before the Meiji Restoration.
We can visit "Houjo," "Kuri" and "Hatto" now. These buildings were completed 120 years ago, and "Syoin" was built only 100 years ago. These buildings are not mature enough, though we find something historically inherited from the Muromachi period. Although the design of them had been changed during of their long history.
This temple didn't inherit original buildings, however, inherited one another thing. That is a big beautiful garden in the backyard of Houjo. This garden is an original which planned by Musou Soseki who was also a first superintendent of this temple. It has been praised from the very start the construction completed to nowadays.
Emperor Godaigo
Ashikaga Takauji
Musou Soseki
Onin war
Meiji Resoration
Kinmon incident
Hatto
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