Revisit Nagoya castle 

Points we paid attention when we revisited the Nagoya castle are,

1. The Hon-maru palace (reconstruction completed)
2. Survived 3 corner towers.
3. How is the progress of the main tower's reconstruction? 

The Hon-maru palace completed 

The Hon-maru palace reconstruction work finished in June 2018 and whole area is opened now. We described this facility 'residence', however, on a scale of this magnitude, we changed the word to 'palace'.  

As of the last visit, we've only seen the first half of the palace. In addition to that, we didn't have enough information about the use of many rooms. This time the facility is fully opened, so, guide boards will give us full information about our questions. However, even the timing of full completion, some room can't identify the purpose. We believe we can explain in a more unified way, and some parts will overlap, we kindly ask for your understanding. 

We would like to start our description with the history of this Hon-maru palace. Its large-scale renovation work was conducted 20 years after the completion of the first Hon-maru palace. And the Hon-maru palace we are looking around now is same as the palace that renovated 20 years after. What are differences, between the first palace, the renovated one 20 years after the first appearance and others in later periods?

The first palace was used for the living of the Load and Load's family. Additionally, politics and several governmental ceremonies were held here.

The first palace and inside the Hon-maru

At the timing of the renovation 20 years after the first appearance, the war between the Tokugawa family and the Toyotomi family was over. The ruler was changed to the Tokugawa family. And the Toyotomi family was destroyed. When the first palace was built, the Lord made his palace in the very center of the Nagoya castle for the protection. However, 20 years gave him another choice. 

He made a wider palace in the Nino-maru, next to Hon-maru where was quite spacious and suitable for more comfortable living place. The new palace was called the Nino-maru palace. And the Hon-maru palace renovated into the accommodation for the Shogun (the ruler at that time). So, it was changed from a living facility to a hotel of the Shogun.   

The Hon-maru palace reconstructed

Other changes were mostly minor. The biggest of them was the material change of the roof. The roof of this building was made of 'Kokera', sliced Japanese cedar boards first. And it was changed into 'Kawara', Japanese roofing tiles. The reason was quite serious. 

The roofs of the high-rank buildings were to be made of 'Kokera' according to the method of the traditional building grading in Japan. Of course, the Lord's palace and the accommodation for the Shogun were made with the Kokera roof. 

These buildings survived 100 years, 200 years or more because there was no danger of war during the Edo period. However, wooden roofs soon weathered, and every 30 years, people had to replace the Kokera roofs. In the timing it was made, the owner had enough wealth, however, the maintenance cost became a burden. Furthermore, the Kokera roofs were quite burnable, so, the Lord's retainers were busy to avoid fire accidents. That was supposed to be the reason for the renovation.  

The Hon-maru palace had these various stages. Then, why this facility we are looking around now was made by the plan of the renovation 20 years after the first appearance? We don't know the exact reason, however, we suppose it was the heyday of this palace.

   
The first palace was made for the first Lord who was one of the sons of Tokugawa Ieyasu (being to be the next ruler). So, it was made quite gorgeous suitable for his important position. The entrance, the Omote-shoin or rooms of the main hall, the Taimenjo or rooms of the reception hall, these 3 areas were made then. They were made tremendously gorgeous, so, these parts were used in the next renovated buildings.  

The immediate reason of the renovation was the 2 days stay of the third Shogun (Tokugawa Iemitsu). He visited Kyoto then, and he stayed in the Nagoya castle when he went to the city (when he went back to Edo, he stayed another accommodation). 

At that time, every Shogun visited Kyoto at least once in his lifetime. So, the accommodation in the Nagoya castle would be used when other Shoguns visited there. However, in the next Shogun's era, the power balance between Shogun and the Emperor was changed and the visit ceremony was cancelled. 

Next visit of Shogun was the 14th visited 1day when he came back from Osaka to Edo. After the Edo period, the Emperor became the ruler and the Nagoya castle was belonging to him. The Emperor's family used this accommodation several times. 

All in all, this accommodation was used for only 3 days in the Edo period which lasted approximately 250 years. The retainers of the Nagoya castle worked every day for someone might stay but not for this long time. When we hear this story, we became sad because of the diligence reflecting Japanese national-character. 

Now, we are going to describe inside of the palace again. This palace was made like a shape of flying wild goose, in Japanese, it's called 'Ganko (雁行)' style floor plan. However, this word is an architectural terminology, so, we hope you feel something special is behind this facility's floor plan. If someone builds a building with the Ganko style floor plan, the site for the building needs very wide. So, this floor plan is extravagant. 

In the first Hon-maru palace, the Taimenjo was the deepest room and the most gorgeous area. In the renovated palace, the area called the Jorakuden hall was expanded next to the Taimenjo. So, the Taimenjo changed like one of areas from the entrance to the Jorakuden. 

In this accommodation, there was many gorgeous room. Even the first palace, it was the palace for the rich Lord, so, the interior was quite flashy. If we compare the interior with one of survived palace, the Kakegawa castle Nino-maru palace, the difference is painfully obvious. 

If you want to review the Kakegawa castle article, please crick "Kakegawa castle".

In addition, the Yudono shoin or bathroom and break room area is next to the Jorakuden hall. At that time, people didn't use the bathroom and only some rich people used Yudono or kind of saunas. However, it dose not seem like a luxury space, wide bathtub with beautiful outdoor scenery is the luxury bathing space for us.

3 corner towers

Once there were 11 corner towers in the original castle. It is said that even though the territory is quite large compared with other castles', the score of 11 corner towers is very small. If we research the numbers of other castles', we will count more large score in every castle. 

The reason of this castle's corner towers' small number was according to the genius landscape planning. This castle's landscape was made with the combination of square compounds and rectangle compounds. On the contrary, other castles' were made using many irregular shapes. We think this castle's was geometric and strategical in the timing of the construction.

By the way, among these 11 corner towers, 3 are still survived. All 3 towers are three stories and same size as the usual castles main towers. They are registered as the important national asset. 

During our last visit, we couldn't enter any corner towers. However, because of the closure of the main tower, one of 3 corner towers seems to be opening alternatively. When and which information will be found in the official homepage of the Nagoya castle, please refer to it. 

The southeast corner tower: 

It is located at the southeast corner of the Hon-maru compound. 

The location is also the right-hand side of the main gate of the Hon-maru. 

The southwest corner tower:

Its location is the southwest corner of the Hon-maru.

Also connecting with the south stone embankment covering the Hon-maru palace.

The northwest corner tower:

It is in the Ofuke compound which is located at the northwest of the Hon-maru.

It is sticking out the wide outer moat.

The current state of the plan of the main tower reconstruction with wooden structures 

The information we heard when we visited this castle mentioned the reconstruction would be started soon and it would be completed in around 2022. However, the construction work is not started. Furthermore, the information when the construction work will be started and will be completed seems not to be declared publicly.   

If you want to review the Nagoya castle article (first time) , please crick "Nagoya castle". 

The reason seems to be the discovery of the severe damage in the stone basement. The damage seems to be so terrible that it can't bear the reconstruction work. Surface of the stone base was badly burned when the original wooden structure collapsed. Now, investigating by our eyes, we find countless hair cracks. We afraid some stone will collapse at any minute. 

If you can remember our previous article, the reconstructed main tower of SRC has 28 meters long RC basement inside the natural stone basement. And the weight of the massive main tower is covered by the SRC basement. The natural stone basement is not covering any weight now. This precondition is still true, the cause of the stone's damage seems to be the natural condition such as rain and wind but the weight of the superstructure. 

We mentioned that the wooden structures for the new building may be specially treated. If our misgiving was true, the new main tower would be a kind of cyborg. Having wooden surface, structures such as pillars and beams have incredible strength...It would be an imaginary nightmare. However, this new problem may bring us another nightmare. If the stone basement was truly damaged not to stand the natural environment, someone might suggest covering on the surface of the stone structures.   

We love castles, so, we hope every castles survive forever. However, we are against the special treatment. RC basement, ground improvement reinforcement, resin injection and so on. Looking overseas, there are many castles made of wood and stone. How much original these castles? We are going to investigate in the future.

Tidbits (Receipt)

Receipt (Detailed Statement)

Receipts are small pieces of paper in which detailed statements are written. They are not used only in Japan. However, written statements of Japanese receipts are quite unique.

These statements are not only figure such as an amount of charge, change, tax but also much information. We suppose this style is found only in Japan. After this information, we actually look at several "Receipts".


Sample 1

This is a receipt of a famous Japanese convenience store. According to the consecutive order, let's study.

a.  corporate name
b.  address of the shop
c.  telephone number of the shop
d.  date and time of purchase
e.  cash register number issued this receipt
f.  clerk's name in charge of this receipt
g.  receipt
h.  products purchased and charge of them
i.  sum of charge
j.  consumption tax
k.  sum of handed money
l.  sum of change (Clerk doesn't calculate the change.)
m. (explanate later.)
n.  Ad. 
o.  QR code for this ad.

If we try to translate sentences in 'm' position, they will be 'products details you purchased are written in the receipt, and consumption tax is included in the price.'

This means, there are a number of troubles about 'details' and 'consumption tax'. Furthermore, this receipt includes ad. of a promotion. How commercially-minded! They try to advertise to customers who have purchased. 

  
                    

                                                 
Sample 2

Next is a receipt of a famous Japanese discount store. Almost are same as sample 1, so pick up some different points.

A.  name of shop (there isn't address)
B.  clerk's name in charge of the receipt and his family name
C.  (explanate later.)
D.  bar code for a record of the deal
 
The sentences in 'C' position are 'we can be acceptable for return or exchange of goods during one week, and you need to bring this receipt and goods, however, foods, Hanko (seal), opened and used are not acceptable.'

This means, we suppose, there are a number of customers bring back goods they purchased. So, they inform the conditions of acceptance.

Huge Merchant House

Japanese merchants have been active relating to Japanese history from the early time. So we think there were so many merchants' houses in any day and age. However, most old merchants' houses were lost because of disasters of war, aging and other reasons.In spite of such situation, several of the Edo period's merchant-houses are still remained with the appearance as they were made. We visit two of them at Matsusaka city, Mie prefecture.

First of all, we want to simply state how major merchants in the Edo period played their active part. Edo, Osaka, Kyoto became big population cities and also large consumption areas. 

Many provincial merchants carried their areas' specialities in the cities. And also they made shops and shopping town there. One of rural cities, Matsusaka city had been producing very important product, specially dyed cotton cloth. This product was highly pleased by the consumers in these consumption areas. Merchants from Matsusaka city advanced in the Edo city, and they became one of the major merchants in Japan. 

Merchants' town in Edo (from the Internet)

In Matsusaka city, there were many residences in which major merchants' families lived at the time they played an active role. Approximately 350 years have passed from the beginning of Matsusaka merchants, there are very few residences survived. Only two residences, 'the Hasegawa residence' and 'the Ozu residence' remained and were open to the public. 

The Hasegawa residence

Until the beginning of the Edo period, Matsusaka city changed a huge producing area of dyed cotton cloth. Several decades before the moment, this area was an important military place and experienced war. But, the ruler, Toyotomi Hideyoshi's politics brought peace to this region. Several merchants who had a good head for business happened to carry the specially dyed cotton cloth in the Edo region. They earned huge money by this trade.

Masters of these merchants' groups lived in Matsusaka city and they made workers operate stores in huge consumption area such as Edo, Osaka, Kyoto. 

Though the most important decision was made by the master in Matsusaka city. They became giant companies at that time. Furthermore, several merchants listed the names of the wealthy. 

The master family bought additional property and expanded the residence each time in the black. This family worked for the regional ruler, samurai and built social status in Matsusaka city. 

Moreover, they used their assets for regional cultural development. 

They became patrons of the arts such as Japanese literature, tea ceremony, Haikai (one of Japanese poetry).

The property

Map of the residence (from the Internet)

Their property, the Hasegawa residence is located in the downtown of Matsusaka city now. In the Edo period, it was adjacent to the Matsusaka Bugyousho (the magistrate's office). This place was very close to the Ise highway (the highway to the Ise shrine), and many other merchants' residences also gathered there.

The Hasegawa family advanced in the Edo city during an early stage. 

And it was established at 1675. It managed 5 stores in the Edo region and hired more than 120 workers in their heyday. 

Stores in the Edo region were controled by workers who were employed at Matsusaka city and were originally the second and third sons of farmers. 

Now, we want to explain the residence. It has been open to the public since April 2019. There are over 30 rooms in the main residence and 5 storehouses protected by thick-walls for the important goods. The first construction was started at the later part of 1600's. It had been expanding until the beginning of 1900's. So we cannot point out the age of each part.

It is registered within the top 10 survived merchant residences. And also it's designated as an important cultural asset. 

Next to the 5 storehouses, a wide Japanese landscape garden and an annex building for visitor's stay and tea ceremony are there. The premises were once the Matsusaka Bugyousho, and Hasegawa family made the purchase of the site and remodeled at the Meiji period.

We can tour only limited area in the residence. However, we can appreciate a living room for the master, a series of withdrawing room, store room and so on. Furthermore, one of storehouses is open to the public and remodeled to an exhibition room. Following the direction signs, we also appreciate a front garden of the main building and a Japanese landscape garden in expanded area. 

The Ozu residence

The Ozu family's line of business was Japanese paper. This Japanese paper merchant was established at 1653, and in its heyday, managed 3 stores, hired 110 workers and more. And this company is still active in Tokyo, and current store name is 'Ozu-Washi (Washi is Japanese paper)'. 

When they organized, its residence was in another place, and they moved at 1686. Its location is at the downtown of Matsusaka, aside of the Ise highway, and close to the Hannai river. The main building was built in uncertain times until the beginning of 1800's. Size of the site narrowed in one third at its best. There were 8 storehouses, however, only 2 now. 

We can appreciate the inside of this building. Its facade does not look so big , however, the inside is beyond expectations. Behind a relatively small entrance, there is a spacious backyard room with ceiling overwhelmingly high. There are several big iron-pots to cook rice.

Once, the travelers to the Ise shrine entered Matsusaka city crossing the bridge over the Hannai river. And the Ozu residence was the first building the travelers found. Ozu family served uncompensated rice balls produced using these iron-pots to every traveler.

In the Edo period, the Ozu family was ranked as a rich family above the Hasegawa family in a ranking list of the wealthy families in Japan. There is a 'Manryou-bako (literally 10 thousands Kobans' (oval gold coins used in the Edo period) safety box' exhibited. So, they were extremely rich but they did uncompensated rice-distributions. They had a spirit of service according to an explanation from a guide of this facility. 

Each side of the big backyard room, there are many room. We can count 15 or so now, however, there were many annex residences. The scale of the total room seemed to be larger than the Hasegawa family's residence.

Pilgrimage to the Ise shrine

The Matsusaka city is located on the Ise highway and at the entrance of the Ise shrine. To be more precise, the Ise highway was moved into the Matsusaka city when Gamou Ujisato, one of famous Sengoku Warriors made the Matsusaka castle. He made the highway replaced and made merchants and ordinary people moved to the newly developed the Matsusaka castle town forcibly.   

From the Internet

Travel to the Ise shrine was a pilgrimage, however, for many Japanese ordinary people, it was a sigit-seeing and pleasure-seeking tour. When the Edo period began, ordinary people enjoyed traveling to the Ise shrine. Because they were prohibited from traveling except pilgrimages to the Ise shrine.

According to a certain record, approximately 5,000,000 people visited there in a certain special year (once every 60 years). The population of Japan was approximately 30,000,000, so, one sixth people visited this shrine that year.

According to an another record, 20,000 people visited the Matsusaka city every day. And the population of the Matsusaka city was 10,000 at that time. If 5,000,000 people visited the Ise shrine through the Matsusaka city, 20,000 visitors one day were possible.

Matsusaka castle 

The entrance

The Matsusaka castle is a Japanese castle made in Matsusaka city, Mie prefecture in the Sengoku period. Wooden structures were not survived. Its area was roughly 500 meters to 800 meters at that time, however, almost all except the central hill area was redeveloped to an urban area. The central hill area is roughly 250 meters to 300 meters. There are still many stone walls survived.

This castle, as a sightseeing place, is not so famous, compared with major Japanese castles such as the Himeji castle, the Osaka castle and so on. 
However, it was very important castle when it was constructed. And the location of it was deeply affected.

Its history

Matsusaka city is located in the middle of Mie prefecture. And Mie prefecture is roughly the center of whole Japan. A little south of this city, one of the very important shrines, Ise shrine is located. Ise shrine has been the central facility of the Shinto religion, and this area was supposed as important district in the old days in Japan. So, powerful regional ruler was positioned in this region.

Though the period when Samurai became to rule Japan started, the importance was not changed. More specifically, the Kitabatake clan who based at the Tamaru castle which was close to the Ise shrine ruled this region during the Muromachi period. He was registered as the Shugo, which was high government post for regional rulers. In the Sengoku period, political power of the center began to fade, however, the Kitabatake clan still had real military ability around his territory.

In 1569, Oda Nobunaga in Owari district attacked the Kitabatake clan, and beat them. He made one of his sons, Nobukatsu succeed to the top of the Kitabatake clan. So, Nobukatsu became the ruler of the Tamaru castle. He thought the castle was too close to the Ise shrine, so he made another castle, the Matsugashima castle in Matsusaka city. In the story described so far, Matsusaka castle didn't appear yet, but the location, Matsusaka city appeared. 

It means this location, Matsusaka city was important in the main stream of politics of whole Japan in the Sengoku period.

Then the end of the Sengoku period came. Oda Nobunaga was murdered, and Toyotomi Hideyoshi became the next ruler of whole Japan. After this incident, Oda Nobukatsu came into conflict with Hideyoshi. A battle between Nobukatsu and Hideyoshi happened, and ended with Nobukatsu's defeat. Nobukatsu 

offered a settlement and Hideyoshi accepted his proposal. In this way he was forced to move his territory to an unimportant and small region. 

Gamou Ujisato

Here comes a new name, Gamou Ujisato, one of famous Sengoku warriors. He came in the Matsugashima castle and became the next regional ruler of this castle. Because he had performed good military exploits during the former battle. 

After the entry into this castle, he noticed its weakness. It was too close to a coastline, and it wasn't so much strong against invaders. Then he made the new castle, the Matsusaka castle in an inland area. 

He was forced to transfer to Tohoku district soon after the completion of this castle. And another Sengoku Warrior came to it after him. There is a fact that a compound where has the name after the next castle owner's son is in the Matsusaka castle. So, we suppose the completion was extended until the days of the new castle owner. However, city authorities want to use the name, Gamou Ujisato persistently. They advertise this Matsusaka castle was planned, and, was completed by Gamou Ujisato. 

What was in the castle area?

If someone asks you what are parts of Japanese castles, you may imagine the main tower, stone walls, moats, earthen walls, turrets and so on. However, there is no item except stone walls in this castle. The reason is hidden in its history. After Gamou Ujisato's presence, the situation was dramatically changed. The thing is, no battle was happened around there from the transfer of Gamou Ujisato until the end of the feudal period.

Furthermore, there was no castle owner after the beginning of the Edo period. It was owned by the ruler of the Wakayama castle in Kisyu district (today's Wakayama prefecture). Then there were only administration officers lived and worked in this castle. As a result, partial damages of the main tower, turrets and earthen walls were not recovered. And when the main tower was burned, new main tower was not made.

Original area (red line remained area)

When comparing the Matsusaka castle and other castles, the latters remain many records. In contrast, we suppose there are very few records in the Matsusaka castle. That is a reason why there aren't any wooden structures of the castle. There are suppositions, however, no building was planned to reconstruct now. 

Akino Fuku Museum

Akino Fuku Museum is located at Hamamatsu city Shizuoka Prefecture, and it is a museum featured only one famous female artist, Akino Fuku (秋野不矩). 

She was born in this region, and later lived in Kyoto city. It was built as one of the projects for the area rehabilitation of this region.

Because it went through such a process, it has two special properties. First, it is quite small as a public building, because it's featuring only one artist and it located at a relatively remote area. Second, the planner was chosen by personal relationship (he was Akino's relatives friend), so, the planner could make this museum distinctive-looking. And the planner's name is Fujimori Terunobu 

(藤森照信), one of the most expected architects in Japan. It is the reason we aim this museum.

This region is called the Tenryu Ward, and famous as a land prospered a forestry industry. One of the famous forestry products is called "Tenryu-sugi", "sugi" is Japanese cedar. If you read one of my articles, "MOSAIC TILE MUSEUM", you may notice the planner is same. Like the MOSAIC TILE MUSEUM, its exterior and interior were finished by many natural produced materials. Outer wall was finished partly by Tenryu-sugi and mainly by a mortar mixed chip of straw to have the effect that looks like a wooden building. As the roofing, he used flagstone slates to have an antique impression.

This museum is standing on a hill top. From a car parking lot at the bottom of the hill, we walk up a semicircular slope to the museum. Now, there is a mountain covered by many trees in front of our route, so we walk up the skirt of it. A strange shape building is coming into our eyesight. The tea-house named "Bouku-ro" which was described by the planner, Mr. Fujimori "it was finished like a wild boar". It was placed when an event was held a few years ago. And it can use as a tea-house practically, however, general visitors cannot enter it. In the first place, there are no stairs, so people need to set a ladder and unlock a small door behind the structure. It's difficult for general visitors.     

The museum is in front of us, and there is a gateway at the left-hand side. Inside the gateway is a wide lobby, a high ceiling. 
Interior wall and ceiling are finished by white plaster mixed chip of straw, and uncovered cedar pillars and beams burned the surfaces. 
The atmosphere is something like a mountain lodge. People are required to take off shoes at the gate of the exhibition room and they feel the texture of the floor made by wood and mortar during appreciation of work.  

Its second floor is quite small, half size of the first floor, and mainly there is a special exhibition room only. When we visit, this room is closed. In the first floor, there is a terrace beside the lobby, this terrace is overhung on a steep cliff, so we can get a wide view here. On the other hand, there is no veranda in the second floor. We suppose this plan makes us feel old-fashioned impression.

We investigated not only the flourish front side but also the backyard used for maintenance and support. Backside wooden walls are changed miserably. Their proud "Tenryu-sugi" walls were severely weathered and the edge of them were rotten with damp from the ground. Furthermore, several parts where something was placed have wide holes. Mortar walls are also stained, edge of the steps of emergency stairs covered something like moss. This museum is located relatively near center of a town, however, the menace of nature, we cannot underestimate it.