Temple in the land of Perfect Bliss

 Temple in the land of Perfect Bliss

Byodoin (平等院) temple is a world heritage site in the Uji (宇治) city near the Kyoto city. Famous as the location of the Hou-ou-do (鳳凰堂) or the Phenix Hall which is, needless to say, one of Japan's leading architecture. Speaking about our experience, we had visited there long time ago, but, we haven't after the big scale renovation during 2012 to 2014.

At the very beginning of this temple, there were many buildings in the area. However, repeated disasters of wars destroyed them, and only the Hou-ou-do survived miraculously. As for the building date of this precious structure, it is said that the Hou-ou-do was completed at 1053.

We suppose this survived building wasn't built at 1053 but at the beginning of the 12th century. Because the first renovation held then included the change of the basement. Assuming that, it's more reasonable to think that everything was restarted then.

Even if you follow our idea, it's been 900 years and more since it was built. Don't you think it's miraculous that such aged-building still survives?

A visit

The Byodoin is located at the west shore of the Uji river. Strictly speaking, the Uji river doesn't run from south to north but from southeast to northwest. The old city area is spread in the west shore of the river, and the Byodoin is located in this old city area. The temple area is east of the narrow road from the Uji bridge which is north of Byodoin. And the eastern end of the temple is the Uji river.

The southern end is adjoining a road heading toward the Nara city. So, the temple area seems to be locked up in a narrow space now. Between the river and the temple area, there is a promenade now, but the temple bordered the river in the old time. 

By the way, there is a concrete square-box-shaped building near the south gate of the temple. It's the Hoshokan (鳳翔館) treasure museum. It's very difficult to imagine there's a one thousand aged building inside this quite modern entrance.

We don't have any information about these buildings inside the temple area. So, we aimed the reception counter for the people wanted to enter the Hou-ou-do. The visitors' route continues from the entrance shed at the south gate to the reception counter of the Hou-ou-do. Heading to the counter, we can see the back view of the Hou-ou-do. The counter is on the right side of the building from its front. We reserved the admission of entrance, and strolled at the south garden of the Hou-ou-do.

The facade of the Hou-ou-do is just as imagined. Namely, this is exactly one of the most popular buildings in Japan. We know in our mind the shape looking like a bird spreading both wings widely in front of a wide pond.

On the contrary, whenever we visit other iconic historical buildings, we always find something different from our memory. For example, the Himeji Castle (姫路城), the Matsumoto Castle (松本城), the Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺), the Kiyomizudera (清水寺) temple, we found differences from what we expected. Before visiting the Hou-ou-do, we have been believing that some kind of difference would exist in the real. Then, maybe we are quite surprised by the new finding.

However, our prediction changes in the profile view. 

Because the profile view of this building is too much thin, or there isn't depth of the structure. The wide-wing structures look like imitation. In other words, the wide-wing structures are only for the front view. In that sense, it's a strange idea but, the Hou-ou-do has the same design concept like European church architecture. The strong facade intentionality.

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Now, using the knowledge from books, we would like to explain why we felt the facade of the Hou-ou-do was exactly same as that we expected. In other words, why the beauty of the facade is completed so much perfectly.

The first reason is related to the side-wings. The side-wings have three layers. The first floor is consisted of uncovered pillars only, so, you can look behind of the building. And the second floor is covered with wide room like banquet seats. Speaking on the third floor, there are small watch towers in the both ends of side-wings. By the combination uncovered first floor, massive second floor and small third floor makes the viewer concentrate on the center building. Please have a second look at the picture we upload. You will be surprised by this idea, at least we are surprised. 

In addition, there aren't stairs to the second floors in these wing-structures. If so, there may be the second floor in the center building and people would visit the wing-structures' second floor from the center building. But, to tell the truth, the wing-structures aren't connected with the center building. So, the center building and both side-wing structures are independent three buildings. When you look at this building from far opposite side of the facade, you would think it's a one consisted building but the truth is it's not. And this is also the trick for the beauty of the Hou-ou-do. Structures aren't necessary for the beauty are scraped off from this building. 

The third reason is related to the center building, the Amida-do (阿弥陀堂). It has an unreasonable balcony above the main entrance door. Please have a third look at the picture we upload. This balcony also has no approach. It's difficult to suppose the reason of the existence of an unaccessible balcony. It's also the secret trick for the beauty. 

There might be other tricks more detailed. As a whole, this building is not for the people's use but for the reproduction of a utopia. Because this building is an imitation of the palace of Buddhism paradise. The fact that the basic building is only a center one, the Amida-do, but there are double width meaningless wing-buildings. And useless balcony only for its design. What a wonderful utopia.

We believe the religious architecture is not for practical use but for mental impact. In that sense, it's more reasonable to pursue religious ideals. Like peacock spreading wings wide to intimidate its enemies, this building spreading wing-structures wide to gain the faith of believers. 

Maybe it's not important but we would like to add this information. Behind the Amida-do, the center building, there is a tail structure. We can't find the explanation about the use of this part. So, the use of it is unclear. However, we personally suppose this is also for its beauty. Because if there isn't this part, the whole profile of the Hou-ou-do will look too much flimsy.  

By the way, we would like to explain the inside of the Amida-do. When we started the short tour of the Amida-do, we entered the building from the right side near the reception counter. On the first-floor of the right wing-structure, we took off our shoes. And we walked a narrow first-floor veranda to the south entrance door, and entered the hall. There is only a 3-meter- high Amida (阿弥陀) statue, and no other Buddha statue. There isn't any information there was only an Amida statue or other statues were removed a long time ago. 

On the surface of surrounding-walls, colored paintings were drawn. However, more than 900 years weathering avoids understanding of the paintings. We have no idea what kind of drawings were painted there. In 2012 to 2014, this building was renovated and some part of the paintings were re-drawn by the specialist. According to the paper for the tourists, the drawings are the 9 scenery after death. It's too difficult to imagine the scenery for us. 

Around the Hou-ou-do, several Buddhism halls are standing. However, there is no information in the paper for the tourists. We suppose these buildings are omitted from tour routes. At the Hoshokan treasure museum, you can see several sculptures from closing up. Beside the treasure museum, tea house is located. The treasure museum and the tea house are quite modern, but you can appreciate the suggestiveness of this sightseeing place. 

Why there?

The Uji town is located in the 15 kilometers south of the Kyoto city where the Emperors have been living. And the Byodoin was build in the Uji town. Why the owner built this temple in the Uji town but in the Kyoto city? 

At that time, novel people ruled Japan especially the Kyoto city. They owned wide site surrounded Kyoto. Especially scenic areas were owned by powerful people. And they made their second house or villa there.

This place was also villa of the Fujiwara (藤原) clan (very powerful novel people). One of the head person of this clan happened to make a temple. And he ordered to renovate his villa into a giant temple. This is the beginning of the Byodoin.

The orderer imagined a reproduce the Buddhism palace in the imaginal world named the Gokuraku Jodo (極楽浄土), the land of Perfect Bliss. So, the Hou-ou-do was not made as the place to enshrine the Amida statue. It was the visualization of the Buddhism palace.

Travelers from Kyoto to the Uji town visited the Fushimi town which was located in the south of Kyoto at that time. And they changed their route to the east. Because south of the Fushimi town was a massive lake named Ogura-ike. Travelers went south along the east coast of the lake. And, at the southern end of the lake, they found the Uji bridge, and other side of the bridge was the Uji town.

By the way, according to the Buddhist Scripture, the Gokuraku Jodo is in the west end. The orderer of the Byodoin temple resembled the west coast of the Uji river as the Gokuraku Jodo. He made the Hou-ou-do bordering the Uji river. So, people standing on the east shore of the river would consider as the real palace in the Gokuraku Jodo. 

This concept was a big success. The impressive exterior of the Hou-ou-do graved people's mind intensely. After the success of this temple, the architectural style of this temple was imitated so many times. It's no exaggeration to say, it was a big boom. The most famous imitated temple was the Mootuji (毛越寺) temple in Iwate (岩手) Pref. which is registered as a world heritage site. However, there is no building there. Because an ancient war-disaster destroyed it, and only footings remain there.