Ichijodani medieval town

A town in the Warring States period

'Ichijodani' is a place name where is located in Fukui prefecture. In the Warring States period, Fukui prefecture was called Echizen country, and this area was territory of the Asakura clan.

They built their capital town at Ichijodani, so if we call the name 'Ichijodani' it means the capital of the Asakura clan. Considering the Warring Sates period, the capitals of the Sengoku lord's territory were taken as castles more often. For example, we usually describe this territory was ruled by a certain Sengoku lord in a certain castle. However, that situation began after the completion of Oda Nobunaga's Azuchi castle, which a certain castle had a castle-town as a capital town.

Before that incident, for example, when Oda Nobunaga owned Gifu castle, Gifu was the center of his territory, and his residence and craftsmen's town were made at the foot of the castle hill. The town at the foot of the castle hill was only for craftsmen at that time. As his new trial, Oda Nobunaga made a further step to gather merchants to retail goods and made the economy activate.

'Ichijodani' is one of the typical sample of the town of the Sengoku period. Most of other Sengoku lords made small towns at the feet of their castle mountains. And they made their residence and their employee craftsmen's living places there. Then, castles were the first and towns were the next in their priority. On the other hand, Ichijodani was the first in the town planning of it. So, it was typical and many Sengoku lords paid attention to it.

About the Odani castle in north Oumi district, it's famous the castle but the town called 'Shimizudani'. By contrast, Ichijodani town is famous in spite of the castle called the Ichijoyama castle. That was because the town was typical among many Sengoku lords. This town was sandwiched tall mountains and in the center of them, and it was made in this flatland relatively wide and long enough. Each end of the valley, there were big earthworks to prevent invading enemy's forces. It's like a walled city in Europe.


Is it needed archeology?

This town was started to build at the latter half of the Muromachi period. More detail, maybe at 1468, the construction of this Asakura clan's capital was started. And at 1573, it was destroyed by Oda Nobunaga's invasion. So, it was flourished approximately 100 years.

This famous town was the headquarters of the Asakura clan who had a strong political power, and also relatively close to Kyoto, so many intellectuals at that time visited there. 

'Ichijodani' is considered as the headquarters of Asakura Yoshikage who was a famous enemy leader of Oda Nobunaga. However, this town had another aspect. We think it's suitable to see this town as a cultural pioneer town except for Kyoto. It was not an impregnable fortress. In the western half of Japan, the capital of the territory of the Ouchi clan, Yamaguchi town was the same kind of town. 

If you visit 'Ichijodani', you can't find anything special and you never seen. There are natural objects, a narrow plain sandwiched tall mountains, a pellucid stream in the center of the plain, and remains of the old road and many lined foundation stone of old wooden buildings on each side of the stream. In a very small part of this town, buildings such like Samurai residences and merchants houses were reproduced. There are dolls wearing the closes at that time in some buildings. However, almost of all are empty space and some sitings have only earthen walls and gates.

About the Asakura clan

In the Warring States period, many big-name Sengoku warriors appeared. Asakura Yoshikage was only one of them. The most famous three big-name were Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Tokugawa Ieyasu. Others were connected with these three and estimated contributions on them. Asakura were usually connected with Oda Nobunaga, because he was a leader of Oda's opposition lords. However, this estimation is far biased to the political priority such like 'ruling over the whole country of Japan'.

The Warring States period was also a period when the priority of Samurai value of the Muromachi period destroyed. Asakura clan was a Shugodai (a high rank retainer of a Shugo or regional governor) of Shiba clan who was the Shugo of Echizan country. His ancestors had come from Tajima area where is now a northern area of Hyogo prefecture. They had moved to Echizen country and gathered their political power there. These kind of Samurai people were many in the Warring States period.

Asakura clan established their headquarters at Ichijodani region and began to stay there. And also they had been strengthening the dominance of the Echizen country. To say another word, they spent everyday life to battle their enemies in their neighboring areas, and that was same as other Sengoku lords. They concentrated their interest to rule their country, and didn't invade other districts. That was a difference from other Sengoku lords. Other Sengoku lords who typified by Oda Nobunaga had enlarged conflicts against neighboring Sengoku lords.

If we look at from another perspective, Ichijodani was utopia in the Warring States period. The Asakura clan was not only a Sengoku lord who battled for ruling over the whole country but also an adventure to seek an ideal town. We suppose they didn't intend to battle but to build their utopia such like a permanent neutral country. However, they failed in the middle of the way. They didn't make a relationship with Oda Nobunaga and his army destroyed their utopia.

Echizen-ono castle

A castle in the sky

It's mystical that only castle main tower and surroundings are above a sea of clouds. And other areas are rolled over a fog hanging low across the city. Very few days a year, you can see this vision. This is a scenery called 'Castle in the Sky'. There are several 'Castles in the Sky' in Japan. And the most famous is the Takeda castle in Hyogo prefecture. However, this Echizen-ono castle is also doing good. It's a budding as one of the three 'Castles in the Sky' in Japan.


From a poster of Ono city

Because Echizen-ono castle is called a 'Castle in the Sky', we misunderstand that it's a mountain castle. However, it's a flatland-mountain castle in classifying the style of castles. The theory of flatland-mountain castles is classified as castles made on hills or small mountains in flat-lands. And they usually had their castle towns in front of them.

This castle was made by Kanamori Nagachika around 1579. In the same year, the notable Azuchi castle which changed the theory of the art of castles was made by Oda Nobunaga. And, Kanamori was a retainer of Oda Nobunaga, so, this castle was supposed to be made diverting Oda's masterpiece's concepts. Unfortunately, the Azuchi castle was ruined and only several stone walls are survived. So, even though visiting the Azuchi castle we can't find the Oda's new castle theory.

Kanamori Nagachika
the Azuchi castle

The castle method was changed after the appearance of Oda's masterpiece dramatically. So, subsequent castles were changed their classification as 'early modern castles'.

The main tower

Oda Nobunaga destroyed Asakura Yoshikage who had been a famous Sengoku lord in Echizen region at 1573. And, the Azuchi castle was completed 6 years after the incident. The Azuchi castle broke the mold from Yama-jiro or mountain castles to Hirayama-jiro or flatland-mountain castles with its castle town. We suppose Kanamori was impressed by this new style castle and when he started to construct his own castle, he must have imitated his master's castle.

Asakura Yoshikage

Up until the appearance of the Azuchi castle, Samurai people made their castles on the top of mountains as secure fortresses. And, in a piece time, they lived in residences at the feet of mountains where their fortresses were hidden. Ichijyou-dani town had been famous until Oda Nobunaga's raising, and the Asakura clan possessed their huge residence in the center of this town. The town was made in a valley sandwiched by steep mountains, and the hidden fortress (mountain castle) was at the top of the mountain behind their residence. Even Oda Nobunaga's castles, such as the Gifu castle and the Komaki castle (these were made before the Azuchi castle), the methods were same as Asakura clan's Ichijyou-dani.  

Ichijyo-dani
the Gifu castle
the Komaki castle

Oda Nobunaga realized a very important theory when he battled with Asakura Yoshikage in Echizen. How strong the town had been made, it would have been destroyed by a large army's impact. So, he noticed the compounded castles with moats and ramparts where his army could be besieged in an emergency moment would be useful. The Azuchi castle was the first deliverable of his idea.

The basic idea of 'early modern castles' wasn't changed. Appearance of arquebuses made themselves major weapons in the battle fields, and according to the incident, castles were caused to change their details. So, in many newly made castles had wide moats comparing with the past. Miner modifications of the castle construction methods continued until the beginning of 17'th century when no more castle was needed. However, the basic idea established by the Azuchi castle wasn't turned. 

We have no information whether the Echizen-ono castle was made imitating the Azuchi castle or not. However, our opinion after learning from the actual place is this castle was deeply affected by the Oda Nobunaga's masterpiece. For example, the main compound was made in the deepest area, and behind it was a massive defense device difficult to attack. In the case of the Azuchi castle, it was the Biwa lake, and the Echizen-ono castle's back was a steep slope.  
 

Palace was placed at the Ni-no-maru compound in the center of this castle. 
Furthermore, this compound was surrounded by the San-no-maru compound, and outside of the San-no-maru was the Soto-kuruwa. So, the palace had triple covers in front of it, and its background was also covered with the secure castle mountain. For providing stronger defenses, every outside of these compounds covered with earthen walls and moats.

Looking at from another perspective, Echizen-ono castle's defense method focused on the palace only. The palace was placed at the center and the defensive devices covered it mainly. And, in case these defenses defeated, the main tower was prepared on the top of the castle mountain. So, it can also be said only a miniaturization of old-fashioned Yamajiro type defensive method. 
That's because it imitated only surface, but not in the deepest point. 

It is said that the first lord, Kanamori completed this castle during his domination. However, as long as we had researched, there was no exact information who had completed. In our opinion, Kanamori had started construction, and at least, its outline was made by his responsibility, but its completion was done by other lord. Because, we can't find any evidence of completion by Kanamori.

So, our suspicion is directed to the masonry of Honmaru compound which looks very aged. There by chance is a probability the masonry of Honmaru compound is not original. Furthermore, the reconstructed main tower also wouldn't inherit the original appearance. Because we heard information it had been designed after the Hamamatsu castle when it had been reconstructed. 
Why it designed after the Hamamatsu castle? As long as we know, there was no relationship between Kanamori Nagachika and the Hamamatsu castle. We're afraid that we are too much suspicious for everything. 

the Hamamatsu castle


Meaning of existence of Echizen-ono castle

The early modern castle which was invented by Oda Nobunaga was quite influential among the Sengoku lords. So, all of them made the imitations of Oda Nobunaga's castle. However, as the centuries rolled by, the ideal castle became the antique quite soon, then, the castle method changed often. There were several reasons, but the most important was the inconvenience. High castle mountains like Azuchi castle's mountain were too inconvenient when they worked inside the siting. The situation of the Echizen-ono castle was also same, because its castle mountain was too high to work at facilities there.

Changing the point of view, we concentrate the Hikone castle which has a high castle mountain. We think it was rather an exception. Because, it was at high risk of suffering battles in the circumstance it was made. There was also another example which was made at the same moment of the Hikone castle's birth, namely the Nagoya castle. The Nagoya castle was also at high risk for the same reason, but it was made by Hirajiro castle (no natural castle hill) style. Newly made castles in this moment were made like the latter. According to the construction time, favorite styles were changed, and the height of castle mountains (or hills) were getting lower and lower.  

the Hikone castle
the Nagoya castle

The beginning of the Echizen-ono castle was related to the Asakura clan's downfall and an occurrence of political unstableness in this region. Looking a little more detail, first, Oda allowed former retainers of the Asakura clan, and he made them his retainer. Furthermore, he agreed to their governing there. 
Then, if they governed this area well, he would not begin extra battle and ordered the building of the Echizen-ono castle.

In spite of his gentle treatment, former retainers of the Asakura clan started battles between themselves. And the result of this civil war, a religious group of a neighbor district invaded into this area and began to rule. Oda Nobunaga lost his temper, and attacked again. He destroyed both the Asakura's retainers and the religious power in this area. When the second battle was happened, Kanamori Nagachika, one of Oda's original retainers marched to the Echizen area from the Mino area. According to this contribution, he was given the Ono region, and he became the ruler there.

Kanamori Nagachika ruled Ono town approximately 10 years. After that, he moved to Hida district following the next authority, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and another lord succeeded this castle instead. Furthermore, many lords ruled there, but most of their ruling were only brief period, and there were no typical records of them. The lords of Echizen-ono castle belonged to the Fukui castle's group, which was the center of this district until the end of the feudal period. This castle ended its life as a supporting role of a lead role, Fukui castle after its brilliant debut. 


Let's go to Echizen-ono castle

At the central city of this district namely Fukui city, JR superexpress 'Thunderbird' stops. It goes to Kanazawa city where is an ancient city we visited the Kanazawa castle. From Fukui city to Ono city, we can ride on JR etsumi-hokusen line but there aren't many trains. Approximately 2 hours from Osaka to Fukui, and further 1 hour from Fukui to Ono. However, these are only the riding time. If we consider the inconvenience in access, we should prepare a hotel to stay at least one night.

the Kanazawa castle

JR etsumi-hokusen line

Remains were only Hon-maru compound on the top of the castle mountain at the Echizen-ono castle. And we needed to go up a steep slope to visit the main castle, and it took 20 minutes or so. On the other hand, if we turned our attention to the castle town, the arrangement of it is well remained even now. And traffic volume wasn't so much and there were several sightseeing points, so it was suitable to walk around.

Side of a vending machine

The timing is very little from dawn to 9 AM in November, when Echizen-ono castle change into the 'Castle in the Sky'. We remember the aurora lights in Nordic countries, which are famous but the timings they appear are also very little. These are such like a phantom. No matter how much chasing, you may never catch the timing. 



Japanese castles we mentioned in this article. You can refer to our previous ones.

"Hikone castle"
Flatland-mountain castle built on the top of a tall castle-mountain

"Nagoya castle"
Flatland-mountain castle built in a plateau

"Kanazawa castle"
Flatland-mountain castle built in a plateau

Swordsmith of Katana

At Seki swordsmithing museum. The gist is follows:
1. Swordsmithing by Katana Kaji or Japanese swordsmith.
2. Other professionals' work manufacturing Japanese sword
3. We joined experiential learning of swordsmithing and...
4. Swords are the most important weapon in Japan. And there are several
    manufacturing districts. Seki is one of them and is influential...

Japanese swordsmithing by a traditional method.

Three young boys are standing surrounding their master. They have sledgehammer one by one and are awaiting the signal of their master. Soon, a glowed iron ingot is brought out from highly-heated charcoal. The master hits a small work-table with his hammer as a signal what will happen next. As soon as the iron ingot is put on the working table, the first sledgehammer's stroke brings down on it. Sparks come off in all direction even at our feet 10 meters away from the table. Audiences' commotion fills all around the venue. 

Second and third strokes are thrown down in no time. Every moment, the glowed iron sparkles and it is forged bit by bit. This is a scene of an event viewing a performance of sword-forging by real swordsmith. The Seki Kaji Densho-kan museum at Seki city, Gifu prefecture holds this event several times a year. 

  
We were very much inspired by this event, so, we also joined an experiential tour and enriched our understanding about Japanese swordsmith. During the tour, we experienced forging real iron ingots heated to high temperature, and engraved on a surface of products. After practising, we grabbed real Japanese swords in our hands. 

Seki Kaji Densho-kan

Our's was an one-day experiential tour, but contents are changeable by demands of participants. And some enthusiastic group will experience a few days tour includes a series of simulations to make one whole product. Even though we experienced only one-day, we were deeply impressed going into the world of Japanese sword we had never met.


How to manufacture Japanese swords?

Seki city is one of the five districts where are famous as producing "Katana" or Japanese swords. We learned this information from the real swordsmith who lectured us. We weren't familiar with history of swordsmiths' groups before this tour. But, experiencing this tour, we learned "Katana" had played important roles here and there in Japanese history. Japanese swords have been made by "Katana-kaji" or swordsmiths. What do they actually take part in a process of making Japanese swords? We want to consider this question first. 

Japanese sword can be separated in several parts but its main item is a crescent moon shape, shining silver mass of iron. These weapons were used by Sengoku warriors killing each other especially during the period of the warring states. The special feature of them is single-sided processing to cut somebody down and another side is not processed to do but to protect the owner of it. The side of cutting is slightly warped, and total shape also becomes curved shape.

They have a large number of shapes which are different depending on their production periods. For example, the oldest one's feature is a double-edged blade. And the next oldest one's is a single-edged blade which has a big curve and the very long length. Roughly saying, curves in the blades became lessen and the length also became shorter with the progress of the time. So, we can guess their production periods from their shapes.

It's not completed by only its body but also by many items to decorate. We can explain only a few major ones next, even though there are many.

"Togi" work is to sharpen a sword body forged by swordsmith using a variety of whetstones and to make its brilliance and beauty revealed.

"Tsuka" work is to make a hilt or a handle of a sword by wrapping in shark skin and coiling braids on it.

"Tsuba" work is to make a handguard with steel which separate a hint and a blade and that is also beautifully chiseled.

"Shirogane" work is to make connecting area between a blade and a hint.

"Saya" work is to make a scabbard which sheathes a sword.


These items are made by each specialist, and they are belonging to professional groups across several generations. It's a composite art made by a variety of specialists. 

Person who produces blades from raw steel materials is "Katana-kaji" or swordsmith. When someone orders a Japanese sword, the swordsmith-master undertakes the whole work in his responsibility. Firstly, he makes a blade until the states roughly finished. And, following his work, many specialists (we mentioned in the previous paragraph) make other parts of it. In this way, a Japanese sword is made by flawless division of work. It takes about half a year to finish the whole work usually. 

First of all, we will follow swordsmith's work roughly. Stone-like superimposed lump of steel (raw material of a blade) is prepared at the beginning. The lump decrepitates by charcoals heated to high temperature, then refined by hitting with sledgehammers. In this section, the master uses some apprentices in hitting process. By hitting it, impurities are expelled as sparks. This lump is extended, bent and folded several times over 10 or so. The steel lump becomes pure and strong by going through this process. This is a first step of making a blade. 

In the second step, the master splices several forged steel lumps which have different hardness characteristics (hard, relatively hard, durable and soft). This process is called 'Katame' or hardening. And in the third step, he extends the hardened steel lump into a shape of a sword. It's called 'Sunobe' or molding. 
Finally, with tempering and forging, he makes up a roughly finished product.

Then, process which swordsmith produces is ended, and the next process will be done by another professional. Next processes continue at the hands of many professionals, and after a long process, an artistic Japanese sword is completed. 

'Togi-shi' or a sharpener of sword; he whels and sharpens a forged sword until it shines beautifully.

'Tsukamaki-shi' or a handle craftsman; he wraps the handle of a sword in shark skin and coils wonderfully with fine silk braids.

'Tsuba-shi' or a handleguard craftsman; he makes the handleguard with a steel plate drilling holes, engraving patterns and other many techniques.

'Shirogane-shi'; he makes 'Habaki' or area connecting the blade to the handle and ’Kozuka' or accessory knife and so on.

'Saya-shi' or a sheath craftsman; he makes the scabbard for storing a sword.

Subsequently, we mention our experiential learning at Seki Kaji Densho-kan. We experienced only a little part of swordsmith's work. Forging a lump of steel, hitting by a sledgehammer, making a clump of charcoal which used tempering the lump of steel. And, engraving a surface of steel (swordsmiths engrave their names on the edge of their products). On our tours, total learning time was just one day, and practice time was only few hours excluding description time. There wasn't enough time in one day tour to do a big deal.

This tour was contrived by the museum. Only 10 participants were able to join this experiential learning. And, two active swordsmiths taught and assisted us during this tour. Not only experience swordsmith's work, but also appreciated real Japanese swords holding our own hands (It's a special bonus for the participants).

Who can join this tour? 
Also elementary school students could join it, if they were in the upper grades.

How much? 
The participation fee for one attendant was 25,000 yen (230 US$), very expensive.


History of Japanese swordsmith

When Japanese people began to produce swords of Japanese style? The origin was not clear. We heard that the first steel sword in ancient Japan was produced around 500 A.D.. It is said that Japanese people started sword-making by imitating imported Chinese swords. Early style swords were double-edged blades and the next style changed single-edged blades with a big curve. Because of this innovation, original Japanese swords were born.

Tachi

This sword which has single-edged blade with a big curve is called 'Tachi'. Swords called 'Tachi' were produced around 1000 A.D.. We can admit 'Tachi' style swords are Japanese style ones. On the other hand, we cannot find the difference between the oldest Japanese swords which had double-edged blades and the Chinese ones.


Katana

When 'Tachi' were active, 'Tachi' and bow-and-arrow were principal weapons in the battle fields. But a long time went on, in the Sengoku period when battles occurred everyday, offensive weapons were shifted to arquebuses and spears. This caused the next change of Japanese swords. They were changed from 'Tachi' for cavalry battles to 'Katana' for infantry battles. To be specific, blade length was shortened to around 70 centimeters and curve became narrow.

By the way, Swordsmiths were gathered in typical several areas depending on periods.There were 5 famous groups around the archipelago. The oldest group was 'Yamato-den' in Nara prefecture. They flourished when a capital located in Nara. The second one was 'Yamashiro-den' in Kyoto prefecture. They moved from Nara because of the transfer of the capital.

The third one was 'Bizen-den' in Okayama prefecture. The reason they flourished was abundant good-quality raw materials of steel near there. Their heyday was around 1100s. We suppose 'Heike' clan originally lived around this area made a big empire in the last few decades of 1100. So, there would be a relationship with them. And the next one was 'Soushu-den' in Kanagawa prefecture. They flourished from 1200s to 1300s. Because there was the center of the Kamakura Shogunate. The final one was 'MIno-den' in Gifu prefecture, and flourished from 1400s to 1500s. Swords mass-made here conquered every battle field during the Sengoku period. 

We don't use 'Katana' in actual purpose now. And consider them as one of art and evaluate their value as art objects. Famous swords were also collecting targets even during the Sengoku period when they were used as general weapons. Famous Sengoku Lords such as Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyashi collected many top-ranking swords and were proud of their collections. So, Japanese swords were regarded as the collecting items from that time.

The beauty of Japanese swords
When we appreciate Japanese swords, these are marked as artifacts nowadays, we have numerous ways to appreciate them. For example, fans evaluate them by the shape of blades such as curve, length, top. And they consider 'Hamon' and 'Hada' as important appreciating points, which are kind of patterns of blades caused mainly by forging. These points are extremely important whether these are first-class or not.

Fans are attracted by not only the blades but also other parts of the swords. Some collectors concentrate into 'Tsuba' or handgardes. Designs of 'Tsuka' or handles of the swords and 'Saya' or scabbards' moldings are sometimes featured as main items of art exhibitions.

When we go back to the beginning of Japanese swords, they are only weapons to kill human beings. However, especially in the process of making them, excessive pursuit of beauty was and is finished up. This two-sideness makes them contradictory products but also ultimately charming. More specifically, their curve and form make them strong and also give them the beauty.


How to visit Seki city?

Seki city is a middle-sized city in the center of Gifu prefecture and it has beautiful nature around the city. On the other hand, traffic convenience to visit there is not good because of the positional relation. This city is in the mountainous region in a central district of Japan.

Nagaragawa-tetsudo

For your information, our experiential learning started at 10 AM. We barely managed to arrive in time riding the first train. 

From an observatory in the Asakura mountain at the center of Seki city, we looked out over the city area. The scenery was not so unusual and several mountains near the city area.

Seki city