Okayama castle

The Okayama castle was made during a very sensitive time. The timing was different from the majority of other famous Japanese castles'. 

The majoryty of castles which still remain were made (or extensively replaned after the Sekigahara-no-tatakai war (1600). This kind of boom in castle-constructions was continued until Siege of Osaka castle (1615). The reason of this boom was an atmosphere which suggested some big war would occur soon. 

During this period, the ruler of Japan changed from the Toyotomi family to the Tokugawa family. And, people thought this ruler's change would cause grave repercussions for all Lords. So, they made or replaned their defensive facilities. 

However, the Okayama castle was not listed these castles. Then, what difference Okayama castle had? 

The Okayama castle site is renovated and reopened at November 3 2022: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kASDz2gAAy8


Main Tower


It was constructed around 10 years earlier than others. And its completion was the Toyotomi family's ruling period. At this timing people believed the Toyotomi family's domination was strong and firm, and would last longtime. 

So, there was no immediate reason for this big new castle, we suppose. However, for the ruler himself, the defense was the most immediate priority. 

In the western district of Osaka, there was the Mouri family who had a strong military power. So, Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered to build this castle. 

It was located at the halfway point between the Mouri family's territory and Toyotomi's headquarter. This was the reason of its appearance.

Then let's focus another aspect, this castle has significant features of appearance apart from the majority of other famous castles. 

And the Okayama castle isn't the only castle which has this exterior features. Another example is the Matsumoto castle. 

Its construction was started in the same year when the Okayama castle's started.

We can't stop to mention that both of them have same black walls called Shitami-itabari at their exterior. This wall design is a standard of Toyotomi's castles. And these features are quite different from other's.  

Okayama castle and Matsumoto castle

These 2 castles have another similarity.

The Matsumoto castle was made aiming to be a defensive device of Matsumoto district against the Tokugawa family (one of Toyotomi's hypothetical enemies). Before the construction started, Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered the Tokugawa family to move to Kanto district. And Matsumoto district was the middle point between Osaka and Kanto. 

Then, we can conclude these 2 castles, the Okayama castle and the Matsumoto castle, have not only same exterior features but also same background birth histories. 

However, for the Okayama castle, defense of Toyotomi family's headquarters was not the only reason. 

Another reason was the relationship of the first lord of this castle and Toyotomi Hideyoshi. 

Ukita Hideie, the first lord of this castle was an adopted child of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. This newly united parent-child relationship meant that he was given a position as a member of ruler's family. 

His new father was the richest person. So, this castle had the implication of a magnificent present to an adopted child. 

To cultivate a better understanding, we look back on the relationship of Hideie, the first load of the Okayama castle. 

His true father had died 9 years before the beginning of this castle's construction. After the death of his father, he was the only hope for the Ukita clan and their retainers. So, they fought for the Toyotomi family with full force in many wars. 

And, the Ukita family became an essential member of the Toyotomi group, and Hideie was given huge dominant. And also the ruler agreed to make a giant castle appropriate for one of great Sengoku lords. 

Hideie's heyday was the very timing. As the construction work started in this way, there were no other castles as luxury as this castle. His adoptive father gave him every knowledge of castle-constructing. After 8 years with Hideyoshi's supervising, this castle was completed 1597.

After that, Hideie was down on his luck. His strong backer, the richest person in Japan died of disease 2 years after the completion. 

Soon after the incident, the Tokugawa group who started challenge to the Toyotomi group. That was the famous war, the Sekigahara-no-tatakai war (1600). Hideie fought for the Toyotomi group, but they were defeated. 

After the incident, he was exiled as the penalty to a far south isolated island, the Hachijo-jima.


Okayama castle and Asahi river

Framework of this castle was done by Ukita Hideie, but the full completion was done by the next load, the Kobayakawa clan, and the third load, the Ikeda clan. 

During the governing by the Ikeda, the Kouraku-en park neighboring the castle was added. 

This area is a huge Daimyo garden famous as one of the three great gardens of Japan nowadays. But, it was originally made as a defensive facility at northern area of the center compound. 


Land reclamation

'Land reclamation' means filling up of shallow beach mainly. This land reclamation is deeply connected with the history of the Okayama district. 

Not only Okayama district but also many places in Japan is filled up throughout Japan's long history. Comparing the Sengoku period and present-day, the position of the coastline is dramatically changed, and many lakes are destroyed by reclamation. We suppose Japan at the Sengoku era was considerably narrow.  

How different are these places between now and then?

One example is the battle field of the Okehazama-no-tatakai war (Aichi Pref.). When the war occurred, fortifications where were in the center of the battle area were located along a coastline. 

However, if we visit the ruins now, they are in the middle of residential area and the coast line is very far from there.

Another example is the Azuchi castle (Siga Pref.). When Oda Nobunaga made this castle, the castle mountain was located in the midst of a lake. And there was very little space connected with surrounding flatland. 

However, the castle mountain is fully surrounded by paddy field plus several historical museums now, and no lake water. 

One more, another example is lost lake called the Ogura pond (Kyoto Pref.). It was located between Kyoto and Osaka. This pond was a kind of barrier when people travel between each city in the Sengoku era. 

But, it was filled up and changed into a huge housing lot now. 

Information about Land Reclamation

When it comes to the Okayama district, same kind of serious change happened. The Kojima peninsula was an island in the Sengoku period. So, on the contrary, peninsula was created someday from then to now. 

Furthermore, the Kojima bay (which is a small bay now) was a huge inland sea. In the bay, there were many bases of pirates and it was the most prosperous area of piracy. 

Flatland around the Okayama castle was also made by land reclamation during the Sengoku period. The early time in this era, the Okayama castle had been a small hill beside the bay. 

The technology of 'land reclamation' was already established in the Sengoku period. And it was developed for enlarging arable land, mainly reclaim a shallow sea. All flatlands around the Okayama castle were developed using this knowledge.

There was a famous event we want to mention specially, that was the Bittyu-takamatsu castle siege. 

In this siege, Toyotomi Hideyoshi made a wide artifically constructed dam. Using this dam, he pulled water all around enemy's castle using river water, then made a wide pool. Then, enemy soldiers were lsolated in the midst of the pool. 

Ukita's retainers played an important role to fulfill this strategy. Because, they had experience of earthwork and land reclamation.  


Information go to the Okayama castle

Because Shinkansen super express stops Okayama station, it's only 50 minites from Shin-oksaka. In the Sengoku period, Toyotomi Hideyoshi experienced difficulty to go west although he reached the Himeji castle easily. 

On the contrary, we reach Okayama station very easily. And, we aim the castle by walk. The distance is approximately 1 kilometer.

From a paper made by Okayama city

Speaking of the Okayama castle, only Honmaru compound is survived. 

Inside of the Honmaru is separated into several areas. The highest area is called the Hon-dan, and next lower area where the residence of the lord was is called the Naka-no-dan. And the lowest area in the compound is called the Shita-no-dan. 

Remained or reconstructed historical buildings are very few, namely an entrance gate turret of the Hon-dan, the main tower, and a turret and a gate in the Naka-no-dan.



Whole Area

If we mention a positive perspective, stone walls in the Honmaru compound are mostly remained. However, because of huge empty space, we feel the vastness. 

Once, there were the Nishi-no-kaku area and the Tounan-no-kaku area that layered on the Honmaru. Outside of them, a huge Ninomaru was there. Between these compounds, there were wide moats. So, we suppose, it looked like a castle floating on a lake at its heyday.

These areas were changed into office buildings or public facilities such as museums and concert halls. Only the Asahi river flowing on the north side resembles the magnificent view of its heyday. 

Main feature of this sightseeing site is the main tower which was reconstructed made of reinforced concrete. The appearance was made imitating the original proportion. From a distant view, this explanation is understandable. However, when you enter the building, you will find aluminum window frames there.


The Kourakuen garden

Moving to a bridge over the Asahi river, we visit a famous Daimyo garden, the Kourakuen garden. Made by the order of a lord of the Okayama castle, the Ikeda clan during the Edo period. Originally it was a villa of the lord's family.

These gardens were classified into stroll gardens. In this garden, huge ponds are located in the central area, and many pavilions are scattered around. 

And, a plum garden and other plants gardens are in several corners. Now, majority is a lawn, but rice was planted at first. That was because the lord hoped to appreciate a scenery of rice fields. He ordered making real rice plant as the motif of this garden. 

However, rice required a lot of work, so a successor changed the main plant from 'rice' to 'lawn' at the end of the Edo period.