Climbing up Gifu castle

The other day, we climbed the Gifu castle. This castle is a mountain castle located in Gifu city. Usually, mountain castles locate in plain and secluded places. However, it was not plain and secluded but flashy and in the limelight in the Japanese history. What does that mean? If we give an example, it was very famous as the headquarters of Oda Nobunaga before he captured Kyoto city. At first, we'd like to inspect why this Gifu castle was in the limelight all through the Sengoku period.

In the first place, mountain castles had been made for the purpose of hiding places. Because lords usually lived in the flat land at that time. And, in the case of emergency such as attacked by enemies, they made quick hide into the mountain castles and fought back against them. The Gifu castle was considered one of such kind of castles.

Oda Nobunaga and his previous castle lord, the Saito clan didn't consider such like this. In their brains, the purpose of this mountain castle was changed from the hideout to the symbol of the ruling. Because the castle site was in the center of an extensive plain and the plain positioned in a strategically important area. And, if they made buildings at the top of the mountain, many people could come to look at the symbol of their ruling.  

This mountain castle is located at the top of the Kinkazan mountain. So, as we already mentioned, the main castle tower is watchable from all around the plain surrounding this mountain. The fact that the tall mountain such like the Kinkazan (329m) standing in the center of the flat land (13m) consisting the downtown of Gifu city is rare. 

By the way, in the Gifu area, there were many castles in flat land and mountain castles in the mountains surrounding this area. These castles weren't ideal to be the castle where the ruler lived. Because castles in the flat land weren't easy to find. People should approach closely if you wanted to see them. And mountain castles in the surrounding mountains of the Gifu plain were also same. These castles' existence couldn't show their dignity to the people who lived there.  

The target of this article is not to praise Oda Nobunaga and his previous castle lord because of their excellent sense to select their castle. But to praise this mountain castle itself. Especially its difficulty of access. In other words, it's difficult to approach the top of the castle on our foot. Furthermore, that might be difficult to live there and attack and capture this castle. 

For the previous lords of Oda Nobunaga, the role of their castles was to hideout into from the attack of the enemies. And also to endure the attack. So, they didn't make their castles on the assumption that they lived their daily lives. Oda Nobunaga supposedly came up with the idea to live on the top of the mountain castle. And we can't suppose what the residences at the top were like from the records left behind. 

We think it's too difficult to climb up and climb down to the top of the mountain oftentimes. Because we experienced climbing to the top by foot. Based on our experience, we doubt the historic fact that Oda Nobunaga lived at the top several years.  

After the relocation of Oda Nobunaga, several lords renovated the main castle tower on the top of the mountain. Famous one was the Ikeda Terumasa's built in 1585. Ikeda Terumasa was also famous that he renovated the Himeji castle and made very beautiful main castle tower of the Himeji castle. So, people suppose the Gifu castle's main tower was also beautiful like the Himeji castle's. And from this imagination, the reconstructed main castle tower was made like current appearance. There is no solid evidence of the appearance of the main castle tower of the Gifu castle. 

The beginning of the Edo period (1603-1867), this castle was dismantled. Then, all buildings in the Kinkazan mountain were removed somewhere. According to an uncertain story, the main tower's wooden parts were used as another castle's main tower. And the main tower's drawing was remained. And the reconstructed main castle tower (1956) was made by reinforced concrete and the exterior was decided referencing the drawing. 

The mountain's top is not wide enough. Not so wide land was created and scattered in several places. For example, the main castle tower, storage, residences and so on. Speaking of current buildings, the reconstructed main tower, a small museum, an eating house, the squirrel-village house are scattered there. These buildings are connected by narrow paths of stone pavement. Quite a lot difference in hight, we notice. It's really difficult to visit one building to another.

What we'd like to deliver is about trails of the mountain. The difference in the height from the foot to the top is over 300 meters. This over 300 meters difference avoid smooth access from the foot to the top. Furthermore, the mountain is quite massive and has a very wide range. Visiting the top on foot is quite an effort. 

These trails are maintained as hiking paths now. And the number in this mountain area is 10. Furthermore, the trails having relationships with the Gifu castle are maybe 5. One of the paths is from another side foot, so, 4 paths are mentioned in the paper we handed over at the entrance of the castle.

A: The Nanamagari-do （七曲道）

It connects from the western foot building to the top of the mountain. Once it was the major climbing route of the people who belonged to the castle. At first, the road goes south in a flat area. And from the south entrance, the trail begins to climb. It will take about 60 minutes to the top, according to the information from someone's HP.

There was a stable for horses at the top, and horses lived there might climb this trail. We haven't experienced this trail, so, it's difficult to tell the expression. According to the previous HP, the route is well maintained and it's easy to climb.    

B: The Hyakumagari-do（百曲道）

We chose this route regrettably. It also connects from the western foot building to the top of the mountain. It begins to climb from south-west of the mountain. According to the paper we got at the entrance, it seemed a long way. So, we led to poor judgement. Quite many places are rocky paths. However, It will take about 40 minutes to the top, according to the previous HP. It was difficult for us.

Additionally, the HP tells us this trail was used to a suprise attack in the Sengoku era's real battle. And the trail was too steep to move riding horses. (You could've told us earlier.)   

C: North route

It also connects from the western foot building to the top of the mountain. It begins to climb from north-west of the mountain. According to the HP, it's the second gentle route and it will take about 70 minutes to the top. North of the castle is the wide Nagara river, so, you can look down and view the scenery of it.

D: Shortcut route

It also connects from the western foot building to the top of the mountain. It begins to climb from the behind of the western foot building. The length of the route is the shortest, but it's too steep to climb quickly. It will take about 40 minutes to the top. And you should skip to climb down this route. It was supposed to be considered as a byway at that time.

🙊🙊 To tell the truth, there is a ropeway to the top. Almost all use it. It's not necessary to climb on foot. However, you may not notice the difficulty that we discovered by this struggling.

L L B C (8) Kyoto Station Building

 

🗾   L's Life in a Big City  (8)   🗾

The other day, I walked around inside the Kyoto Station. The Kyoto Station had been reconstructed in 1997. Soon after the reconstruction, I had visited this station but only for transportation to visit several sightseeing places in Kyoto City. I had glanced its huge atrium space but I hadn't walked around it.

However, I had information that this station was adjoining a hotel, a department store, a park area and so on. So, I was thinking that I would like to explore this building someday. But until this visiting experiment, this station was only for transportation facility for me.

Now, I was standing in front of the main entrance. It seemed cramped for me. I supposed it was because there were so many passengers there. But I thought that there would be one more reason. That is the layout of the concourse. Both sides of the main entrance are the long stairs and escalators, so, the concourse looked narrower than it actually was.

By the way, this inspiration was not important for me. Because my interest was focused on something existed at the high end of the stairs. At first, I went up the right escalator. This stairs were quite long, so, I saved my power to walk around.

In the midway to the top, the width of the stairs was changed. Upper side of the stairs was very wide and picture perfect. At the end of the stairs, there was a hanging garden. It was 50 meters above the station concourse. From there, there was an air corridor and I admired scenery of the Kyoto Tower.    

Tea ceremony rooms in history

 Tea ceremony rooms in history 

The Japanese tea ceremony is world-famous, we believe. Then, how much do you understand the tea rooms where tea ceremonies held?  There are many historically famous tea rooms all around Japan. However, we suppose, if we research their current status, they are quite often confusing and behind the screens in a sense. After this introduction, we'll try to describe these of historic tea rooms. 

Uraku-en Jo-an (有楽苑 如庵) : National treasure

如庵

This building was built by Oda Urakusai (織田有楽斎) who was a famous warrior and tea master, at the Shoden-in (正伝院) temple in 1618. The Shoden-in temple was a tatchuu (塔頭) temple of the Kennin-ji (建仁寺) in the Kyoto city.  ( a 'tatchuu' is a subsidiary temple belonging to the main temple) It's now located in the garden-park named the Japanese garden ' Uraku-en' in the Inuyama city, Aichi prefecture.

Now, you have to understand the unit of area, tatami- 1-jo (畳１帖). Tatami- 1-jo means the width around 90 centimeters by 180 centimeters. And, tea masters at the Sengoku era represented by Sen-no Rikyu (千利休) considered it was necessary to narrow down the width of the tea rooms. For example, Sen-no Rikyu thought the width of tatami- 8-jo which was popular at that time was too wide to exchange guests and master. At first, he made a tatami- 4.5-jo width tea room for his proof theory. Furthermore, he made a tatami- 1.5-jo width tea room in the end.

Against the mainstream, the width of this tea room is 'Ni-jo han daime.' Ni-jo han daime means 2-tatami plus 0.5-tatami plus 0.75-tatami, so, the total width is 3.25-tatami. He didn't choose the extreme narrowness for his tea room. This expression he said is very famous, "A tatami- 2.5-jo width or a tatami- 1.5-jo width will be more a pain than a treat." 

Urasen-ke Kan-un-tei (裏千家 寒雲亭) : National important cultural asset, Urasen-ke Kon-nichi-an (裏千家 今日庵) : National important cultural asset, Urasen-ke Dairo-no-ma (裏千家 大炉の間) : National important cultural asset, Urasen-ke Ryu-sei-ken (裏千家 溜精軒) : National important cultural asset, Urasen-ke Yu-in (裏千家 又隠) : National important cultural asset, Urasen-ke Mushiki-ken (裏千家 無色軒) : National important cultural asset

Urasen-ke is a clan or a kinship group which leads the tea ceremony community in Japan. The Urasen-ke residence is located at Kyoto city Kamikyo ward. It was originally made in 1578, and was destroyed by fire in 1788. So, it was reconstructed after the fire, and was experienced building extensions and renovations many times after the reconstruction. Apart from 6 famous tea rooms above, there are so many other tea rooms in it.

Urasen-ke Kan-un-tei (裏千家 寒雲亭)

寒雲亭（鎌倉市）

The plan is 8-tatami plus 1-tatami-width Tokonoma (床の間), alcove for displaying. It was supposed to be used for large-scale ceremonies. To tell the truth, there is another original at Toukei-ji temple in Kamakura city, Kanagawa prefecture. This building is an individual flat and it has an authentic story such as when they moved, why they earned. So they insist their Kan-un-tei is the genuine (so, Kan-un-tei in Kyoto city is an artificial). The inside atmosphere is so different.

The Kan-un-tei in Kamakura city is displayed by Syoin-zukuri (書院造) style and has kind of formal atmosphere. On the contrary, the Kan-un-tei in Kyoto city is displayed by Wabicha (侘び茶) style and has kind of relaxed atmosphere. We just saw them in pictures, but the impression is quite different.

Urasen-ke Kon-nichi-an (裏千家 今日庵)

今日庵

It was made in the same building with the Kan-un-tei, and next of it. The width is 'Ichi-jo daime', so, 1.75-tatami. It's almost the extreme.  

Urasen-ke Dairo-no-ma (裏千家 大炉の間)

大炉の間

This tea room was made at the time of the extension in 1856. It's consisted with 8-tatami room and 6-tatami room, so total is 14-tatami in width. At this time, tea rooms were made for other purpose. At first, it was for service by the master to the guest. But then, especially in the Urasen-ke residence, it was for teaching of many apprentices who wanted to learn the ceremony. By this extension, several separate buildings were connected.

So, for example, Kan-un-tei which was separated from the main residence was connected. And, the Dairo-no-ma was made in the center of the complex. They positioned the Dairo-no-ma as the most important tea room of this residence.

Urasen-ke Ryu-sei-ken (裏千家 溜精軒)

Same as the Dairo-no-ma, it was made at the time of the extension in 1856. It's located between one individual room to the next, and it looks like a hallway. But when you close the sliding doors, this space changes a tea room. The room is 6-tatami in width. 

Urasen-ke Yu-in (裏千家 又隠)

又隠

It was expanded beside the Kon-nichi-an 6 years after the original Kan-un-tei and Kon-nichi-an were built. The room is 4.5-tatami in width. It's just our personal opinion, the master who made the 8-tatami Kan-un-tei and the 1.75-tatami Kon-nichi-an didn't satisfy the result. So finally he made the 4.5-tatami Yu-in when he had the chance to extend his retreat. We worry if the tea ceremony experts read this opinion, they might blame us for our quips.

Urasen-ke Mushiki-ken (裏千家 無色軒)

The construction date was uncertain, but the planner was the 4th master. (In addition, the most famous Kan-un-tei was planned by the 3rd.) The room is 6-tatami plus 1-tatami size wood floor in width.

Omotesen-ke Shofu-ro (表千家 松風楼), Omotesen-ke Tensetsu-do (表千家 点雪堂) : National important cultural asset, Omotesen-ke Fushin-an (表千家 不審庵) 

Omotesen-ke is also a leading tea ceremony community in Japan. The Omotesen-ke residence is also located at Kyoto city Kamikyo ward. However, we couldn't find the information of the residence. Famous tea rooms are mostly young. And also they have only one national important cultural asset. We doubt they hide their history in the veil.

Omotesen-ke Shofu-ro (表千家 松風楼)

Shofu-ro was made in 1921. It has 8-tatami main room, 5-tatami east-room, 4-tatami west-room, and 8-0.75tatami south-room. It's for large scale tea ceremony.

Omotesen-ke Tensetsu-do (表千家 点雪堂) 

Tensetsu-do is a 4-tatami tea room made in 1839. It was the renovation of the previous tea room. There isn't enough information in the Internet, so we can't describe its history.

Omotesen-ke Fushin-an (表千家 不審庵) 

Fushin-an is a 3-tatami tea room made in 1913. It's also the renovated. And also, there isn't enough information in the Internet, so we don't know the back.

Gyokurin-in Kasumidoko-no-ma (玉林院 霞床の間) : National important cultural asset, Gyokurin-in Sa-an (玉林院 蓑庵) : National important cultural

Gyokurin-in Kasumidoko-no-ma (玉林院 霞床の間)

南明庵

It was built on the property of the Gyokurin-in (Kyoto city Kita ward), one of the tatchuu temples of the Daitoku-ji (大徳寺) in 1742. The building is a complex of the Nammei-an (南明庵), a Buddhist chamber and two tea rooms. Kasumidoko-no-ma is one of them and 4.5-tatami in width.

Gyokurin-in Sa-an (玉林院 蓑庵)

Sa-an is another tea room and 3-tatami in width.

Kodai-ji Iho-an (高台寺 遺芳庵), Kodai-ji Shigure-tei + Karakasa tei (高台寺 時雨亭＋傘亭) : National important cultural

Kodai-ji Iho-an (高台寺 遺芳庵)

It was built on the property of the Kodai-ji temple in Kyoto city Higasiyama ward. The building was moved here in 1908. The width is 1.75-tatami tea room and same size Mizuya (washing place). The original was supposed to be made at early times in the Edo period, however, this is more young. 

Kodai-ji Shigure-tei + Karakasa tei (高台寺 時雨亭＋傘亭)

時雨亭

The floor of the Shigure-tei isn't covered with tatami mats, so, we have difficulty to describe the width of it. The width is around 6-tatami. There is worthy of a special mention that is the location of this tea room. It's on the second floor of a thin building, and the master and the guest have to climb the wooden ladder for the ceremony. We doubt they can hold formally arranged ceremony or not.

And the Karakasa-tei is connected with the first floor of the Shigure-tei by an open hallway. The width is 6-tatami. It was built in the early Edo period. And supposed that originally built on the property of the Fushimi castle and removed here later.

Koho-an Bo-sen (弧篷庵 忘筌) : National important cultural

It was built on the property of the Koho-an (Kyoto city Kita ward), one of the tatchuu temples of the Daitoku-ji. The original was destroyed by fire in 1793. The date of the reconstruction was not clear, but we suppose it was around 1800. It's 12-tatami in width.

Konchi-in Hasso-seki (金地院 八窓席) : National important cultural

It was built on the property of the Konchi-in (Kyoto city Higashiyama ward), one of the tatchuu temples of the Nanzen-ji. It was made by renovating the original one around 1628. Then the renovated one became famous and had the name, "Hasso-seki." It's 3.75-tatami in width.

Saio-in Yodomi-no-seki (西翁院 澱看席) : National important cultural

澱看席

It was built on the property of the Saio-in (Kyoto city Sakyo ward), one of the tatchuu temples of the Konkai-komyo-ji. It was made around 1685. It's 3-tatami in width.

Kainyo-an (皆如庵)

皆如庵

It was located on the property of the Saigyo-an in Kyoto city Higasiyama ward. It was made around 1595 and removed here in 1894. It's 4-tatami in width.

Guardian shrine of Kyoto

 Guardian shrine of Kyoto 

On the southwest of the Kyoto Basin, Iwashimizu Hachimangu (石清水八幡宮) Shrine is standing at the top of the Otokoyama (男山) Mountain (143 meters high). It had been protected the unlucky direction (south-west) of the Kyoto city. This direction also called the back demon gate. 

Another unlucky direction called the main demon gate (north-east) had been protected by the famous shrine, Hieizan Enryakuji (比叡山延暦寺). For your information, Hieizan Enryakuji was a complexed domain where the temple called the Enryakuji and the shrine called the Hiyoshi-jinnjya (日吉神社) coexisted. 

So, once, Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine was one of the main two protection points around the Kyoto City.  

According to the HP of this shrine, it was established at A.D. 859 (around 1160 years ago). And especially worshiped by the imperial families, such as emperors (天皇), retired emperors (上皇) and monk-emperors (法皇) during the early 900s. So, many imperial families visited and worshiped at that time.

Additionally, this shrine was considered the guardian deity of the Genji (源氏) clan. The Genji clan was one of very famous families in Japanese history. Minamotono Yoshiie (源義家) (1039-1106) who was a very famous person at that time. And, this shrine was used as the place of his coming-of-age ceremony (元服式).

After the ceremony, he became a 'big man' with huge military power. So, this shrine is proud of having been the place of Minamotono Yoshiie's coming-of-age ceremony. Because this historic event happened, the Genji clan and their extended families worshiped this shrine. As a result of their strong supports, this shrine flourished. 

One more historically famous clan, the Heike (平家) clan also respected this shrine. So, this shrine was treated very respectfully in any generation. Until here, we mentioned the official history this shrine wanted to show off. However, there are many historic events happened around this shrine and its HP wants not to describe. 

This shrine mainly appeared in the Japanese history during the Nanbokucho (南北朝) era (1336-1392). Because the power game at that time happened around the Kyoto city. And the location of the shrine was convenient for the players of the power game.

In more detail, the Southern Court (南朝)'s military forces and Ashikaga Takauji (足利尊氏)'s military group struggled each other. In their battles, they changed their situation many times. At some point in time, one of them defended the Kyoto city and another point in time the situation changed.

Each time the players of the power game switched their position, the invaders' side garrisoned in this shrine. Because it had high military utility value, the location which was outside of the south-west end of the Kyoto city. And it is also located at the top of the highest hill around there and surrounded by the Yodo river (淀川) and the Oguraike lake (巨椋池). So, it was very good for defense. Commanders of the invader-armies considered that this place was the best for the station. 

For example, Ashikaga Takauji's army stationed here in 1336. Then, the Kyoto city was occupied by the Southern Court's military forces and his army was the invader's side. He commanded his army from here and won the battle. He welcomed an important retired emperor, and the event determined his victory.

If you stand in his place, you can advertise your high contribution for his victory. But this shrine doesn't mention Ashikaga Takauji's victory. Why? Because Ashikaga Takauji's victory means the Imperial Court army's defeat in a sense. Especially before the WW2, Ashikaga Takauji was considered the villain who went against the Imperial Court. So, the shrine still avoids the story of him. 

One more example, the Southern Court's army stationed here in 1352. This time the Southern Court's army invaded the Kyoto city, and Ashikaga Yoshiakira (足利義詮) (son of Takauji) escaped there. However, Ashikaga Toshiakira's army recaptured the city. The Southern Court's army removed to the Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine. Ashikaga Toshiakira's army won the battle against the Southern Court's armies, the shrine captured by Ashikaga Toshiakira's army and many buildings were burned.

Like this example, the shrine was burned many times.

The current buildings were reconstructed by the help of the Edo shogunate (江戸幕府) in 1634. The way of the appearance is called the Hachiman-zukuri (八幡造) construction method. Many of the buildings were registered as the national treasure.

(10 buildings are registered as the national treasure and 8 are important national asset)

L L B C (7) Ginkgo

🗾   L's Life in a Big City  (7) Ginkgo    🗾

The road in front of the building where I'm working is a 4-lane boulevard street trees planted. I want to explain these street trees this time.

Before I start the story, I'd like to mention the unusual weather of this year. During late June and the beginning of July is a rainy season named 'Tsuyu', so, usually we have much rainfall every year. 

However, this year is different. There were few rainfalls and the weather soon became very hot instantly.  

A little ago, people believed that many people sprinkled with water at the same time, then the temperature went down. Because the vaporization of the sprinkled water takes away the heat in the air. We experienced the event to sprinkle water at a same time with all of citizens.

Recently, I don't hear the information of such event, maybe city officials learned that such effort was useless against the violence of global warming. 

By the way, I hear that ginkgo trees are resistant to polluted-air from vehicles. So, ginkgo trees are popular as street trees.

Ginkgo leaves change color to yellow in autumn. This sight of ginkgo trees makes us feel the change of the season to autumn. Furthermore, their nuts which covered with smelly flesh cover the pavements. By this smelly and uncomfortable event also makes us feel an elegance of autumn in Japan.  

Until quite recently, I didn't notice the importance of existence of ginkgo trees in summer. They make shadow by their plenty of leaves. They avoid the violent sunbeam from the sun.

I see many boulevard streets uncovered by street trees. Even if there are street trees, they are cruelly pruned. But this 4-lane boulevard street has street trees covered with plenty of leaves. Thanks to them, I can spend a little acceptable atmosphere in front of my working place.

Temple in the land of Perfect Bliss

 Temple in the land of Perfect Bliss

Byodoin (平等院) temple is a world heritage site in the Uji (宇治) city near the Kyoto city. Famous as the location of the Hou-ou-do (鳳凰堂) or the Phenix Hall which is, needless to say, one of Japan's leading architecture. Speaking about our experience, we had visited there long time ago, but, we haven't after the big scale renovation during 2012 to 2014.

At the very beginning of this temple, there were many buildings in the area. However, repeated disasters of wars destroyed them, and only the Hou-ou-do survived miraculously. As for the building date of this precious structure, it is said that the Hou-ou-do was completed at 1053.

We suppose this survived building wasn't built at 1053 but at the beginning of the 12th century. Because the first renovation held then included the change of the basement. Assuming that, it's more reasonable to think that everything was restarted then.

Even if you follow our idea, it's been 900 years and more since it was built. Don't you think it's miraculous that such aged-building still survives?

A visit

The Byodoin is located at the west shore of the Uji river. Strictly speaking, the Uji river doesn't run from south to north but from southeast to northwest. The old city area is spread in the west shore of the river, and the Byodoin is located in this old city area. The temple area is east of the narrow road from the Uji bridge which is north of Byodoin. And the eastern end of the temple is the Uji river.

The southern end is adjoining a road heading toward the Nara city. So, the temple area seems to be locked up in a narrow space now. Between the river and the temple area, there is a promenade now, but the temple bordered the river in the old time. 

By the way, there is a concrete square-box-shaped building near the south gate of the temple. It's the Hoshokan (鳳翔館) treasure museum. It's very difficult to imagine there's a one thousand aged building inside this quite modern entrance.

We don't have any information about these buildings inside the temple area. So, we aimed the reception counter for the people wanted to enter the Hou-ou-do. The visitors' route continues from the entrance shed at the south gate to the reception counter of the Hou-ou-do. Heading to the counter, we can see the back view of the Hou-ou-do. The counter is on the right side of the building from its front. We reserved the admission of entrance, and strolled at the south garden of the Hou-ou-do.

The facade of the Hou-ou-do is just as imagined. Namely, this is exactly one of the most popular buildings in Japan. We know in our mind the shape looking like a bird spreading both wings widely in front of a wide pond.

On the contrary, whenever we visit other iconic historical buildings, we always find something different from our memory. For example, the Himeji Castle (姫路城), the Matsumoto Castle (松本城), the Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺), the Kiyomizudera (清水寺) temple, we found differences from what we expected. Before visiting the Hou-ou-do, we have been believing that some kind of difference would exist in the real. Then, maybe we are quite surprised by the new finding.

However, our prediction changes in the profile view. 

Because the profile view of this building is too much thin, or there isn't depth of the structure. The wide-wing structures look like imitation. In other words, the wide-wing structures are only for the front view. In that sense, it's a strange idea but, the Hou-ou-do has the same design concept like European church architecture. The strong facade intentionality.

📗

Now, using the knowledge from books, we would like to explain why we felt the facade of the Hou-ou-do was exactly same as that we expected. In other words, why the beauty of the facade is completed so much perfectly.

The first reason is related to the side-wings. The side-wings have three layers. The first floor is consisted of uncovered pillars only, so, you can look behind of the building. And the second floor is covered with wide room like banquet seats. Speaking on the third floor, there are small watch towers in the both ends of side-wings. By the combination uncovered first floor, massive second floor and small third floor makes the viewer concentrate on the center building. Please have a second look at the picture we upload. You will be surprised by this idea, at least we are surprised. 

In addition, there aren't stairs to the second floors in these wing-structures. If so, there may be the second floor in the center building and people would visit the wing-structures' second floor from the center building. But, to tell the truth, the wing-structures aren't connected with the center building. So, the center building and both side-wing structures are independent three buildings. When you look at this building from far opposite side of the facade, you would think it's a one consisted building but the truth is it's not. And this is also the trick for the beauty of the Hou-ou-do. Structures aren't necessary for the beauty are scraped off from this building. 

The third reason is related to the center building, the Amida-do (阿弥陀堂). It has an unreasonable balcony above the main entrance door. Please have a third look at the picture we upload. This balcony also has no approach. It's difficult to suppose the reason of the existence of an unaccessible balcony. It's also the secret trick for the beauty. 

There might be other tricks more detailed. As a whole, this building is not for the people's use but for the reproduction of a utopia. Because this building is an imitation of the palace of Buddhism paradise. The fact that the basic building is only a center one, the Amida-do, but there are double width meaningless wing-buildings. And useless balcony only for its design. What a wonderful utopia.

We believe the religious architecture is not for practical use but for mental impact. In that sense, it's more reasonable to pursue religious ideals. Like peacock spreading wings wide to intimidate its enemies, this building spreading wing-structures wide to gain the faith of believers. 

Maybe it's not important but we would like to add this information. Behind the Amida-do, the center building, there is a tail structure. We can't find the explanation about the use of this part. So, the use of it is unclear. However, we personally suppose this is also for its beauty. Because if there isn't this part, the whole profile of the Hou-ou-do will look too much flimsy.  

By the way, we would like to explain the inside of the Amida-do. When we started the short tour of the Amida-do, we entered the building from the right side near the reception counter. On the first-floor of the right wing-structure, we took off our shoes. And we walked a narrow first-floor veranda to the south entrance door, and entered the hall. There is only a 3-meter- high Amida (阿弥陀) statue, and no other Buddha statue. There isn't any information there was only an Amida statue or other statues were removed a long time ago. 

On the surface of surrounding-walls, colored paintings were drawn. However, more than 900 years weathering avoids understanding of the paintings. We have no idea what kind of drawings were painted there. In 2012 to 2014, this building was renovated and some part of the paintings were re-drawn by the specialist. According to the paper for the tourists, the drawings are the 9 scenery after death. It's too difficult to imagine the scenery for us. 

Around the Hou-ou-do, several Buddhism halls are standing. However, there is no information in the paper for the tourists. We suppose these buildings are omitted from tour routes. At the Hoshokan treasure museum, you can see several sculptures from closing up. Beside the treasure museum, tea house is located. The treasure museum and the tea house are quite modern, but you can appreciate the suggestiveness of this sightseeing place. 

Why there?

The Uji town is located in the 15 kilometers south of the Kyoto city where the Emperors have been living. And the Byodoin was build in the Uji town. Why the owner built this temple in the Uji town but in the Kyoto city? 

At that time, novel people ruled Japan especially the Kyoto city. They owned wide site surrounded Kyoto. Especially scenic areas were owned by powerful people. And they made their second house or villa there.

This place was also villa of the Fujiwara (藤原) clan (very powerful novel people). One of the head person of this clan happened to make a temple. And he ordered to renovate his villa into a giant temple. This is the beginning of the Byodoin.

The orderer imagined a reproduce the Buddhism palace in the imaginal world named the Gokuraku Jodo (極楽浄土), the land of Perfect Bliss. So, the Hou-ou-do was not made as the place to enshrine the Amida statue. It was the visualization of the Buddhism palace.

Travelers from Kyoto to the Uji town visited the Fushimi town which was located in the south of Kyoto at that time. And they changed their route to the east. Because south of the Fushimi town was a massive lake named Ogura-ike. Travelers went south along the east coast of the lake. And, at the southern end of the lake, they found the Uji bridge, and other side of the bridge was the Uji town.

By the way, according to the Buddhist Scripture, the Gokuraku Jodo is in the west end. The orderer of the Byodoin temple resembled the west coast of the Uji river as the Gokuraku Jodo. He made the Hou-ou-do bordering the Uji river. So, people standing on the east shore of the river would consider as the real palace in the Gokuraku Jodo. 

This concept was a big success. The impressive exterior of the Hou-ou-do graved people's mind intensely. After the success of this temple, the architectural style of this temple was imitated so many times. It's no exaggeration to say, it was a big boom. The most famous imitated temple was the Mootuji (毛越寺) temple in Iwate (岩手) Pref. which is registered as a world heritage site. However, there is no building there. Because an ancient war-disaster destroyed it, and only footings remain there.