Koto three temples
What is 'Koto Sanzan (湖東三山)' ? In this article, we want to focus on it. First of all, we will search the literal meaning. 'Koto' means 'east of lake', and, in this instance, it means 'eastern region of the Lake Biwa'. And, 'sanzan' means 'three mountains', and this time, is '3 temples'. In Japan, many temples have long names, for instance, 'some mountain plus some temple'. The reason they have the former part of their names is their location. Many old temples were established on feet of mountains, so they were called mountain name plus temple name.
Each of Koto Sanzan's temples is described below.
Ryuouzan Saimyoji (Ryuou-mountain Saimy-temple)
Shohouzan Kongorinji (Shoho-mountain Kongorin-temple)
Shakasan Hyakusaiji (Shaka-moutain Hyakusai-temple)
According to a guide book, 'Koto Sanzan' was once 'Koto Gozan' (Koto 5 temples) in the Muromachi period (5～600 years ago). And, other two temples were 'Binmanji' and 'Daikakuji', and these two temples declined severely, so survived 3 temples gathered attention. In this way, catchphrase, 'Koto Sanzan' and 3 temples became popular.
However, we don't have evidence of existence of the name in the documents, furthermore, 'Koto Sanzan' have no other description except the guide book.
The result we searched is that 'Koto Sanzan' was a catchphrase of an advertisement of a regular sightseeing bus at a little past time. It was made around 1965, when there was a big tourist boom all around Japan. And a regular sightseeing bus company created a new bus route traveling these three temples. The truth is the truth, but it's convenient to describe these three temples in line with this classification.
Ryuouzan Saimyoji (Saimyoji temple)
It established approximately 1200 years ago. There was around 300 accommodation for monks in its heyday. Now, Meishin Highway runs across the site of this temple, in other words, it crosses underground of the approach between the entrance and the main buildings. It's pity, we would like to argue loudly because that it is a cultural property! However, at the inner entrance of this temple, there is no traffic sound, so we can feel tranquility.
Some of Buddha statues are important cultural assets. Once there was a great fire and many buildings were burnt, and Buddha statues were removed into the main hall, so they are all survived. But, there isn't enough space for them and they are crowded in the hall. Photography is prohibited in the hall. So we cannot take photos of Buddha statues. If we explain by our words, they are very charming and beautiful.
There is a special guide in the main hall, and he explains the history and the character of the Buddha statues very kindly.
Our special interest is communality and history not the beginning days but Oda Nobunaga's era. Because, to tell the truth, we aren't interested in the beginning of them. We already described 'Koto' means the region of the east of the Lake Biwa. And, 'Koto' was a main battle field when Oda Nobunaga was active. So, not only for us but also for many Japanese interested in the history, this typical moment is quite remarkable.
Real history between Saimyoji and Nobunaga is below. Nobunaga carried out the notorious Siege of Mount Hiei (1571) on September 15th and following few days. After that, he went back to his headquarters, the Gifu castle.
We found a description of a Saimyoji's paper for tourists that Nobunaga ordered to fire Tendai-sect temples around Koto region. And, Saimyoji was a Tendai-sect temple, and it was badly burnt and many buildings were lost then.
In the official record of Nobunaga, there was no description of the firing order, and he made another order in this timing. The order was to kill a warrior. This order was recorded in the official record of Nobunaga.
The warrior was born in Omi (Shiga Prefecture), and became a subordinate of Nobunaga's enemy, and after he betrayed his master and became Nobunaga's
subordinate, however, he betrayed again, so Nobunaga commanded to kill him.
According to a paper of Saimyoji, the commander who recieved the killing order was the same person who commanded the firing to Saimyoji. We doubt he really received the firing order. Our reasoning is that only killing order was recorded and firing order was not. Why only killing order was recorded?
According to a paper of Saimyoji, the commander who recieved the killing order was the same person who commanded the firing to Saimyoji. We doubt he really received the firing order. Our reasoning is that only killing order was recorded and firing order was not. Why only killing order was recorded?
Moreover, by the Saimyoji's explanation, Nobunaga commanded the firing of Tendai-sect temples, why other temples, for example Kongorinnji and Hyakusaiji weren't burnt? Regarding this matter, we suppose Saimyoji released this information without solid grounds.
Now, we want to mention positive information.
This temple was enumerated one of Japan's 36 most beautiful places (by CNN Travel). The reason is contrast of the main hall and autumn leaves is excellent.
Further information is a garden which was made during the Edo period. It is named 'Horaitei', located beside of the wide approach to the main hall, and it is registered as Place of Scenic Beauty by the national government.
This garden is located in front of a monk's accommodation. We go through a small gate beside it. The garden is a stroll garden with a pond. Beyond the pond, we enter a walking path, and it connects to the main hall area.
If you aren't interested in this garden, you can go up to the main hall using the wide main path. When you follow the tourist route, you enter the main hall area from a sub-gate and you find the three-stories pagoda in front of you.
They might intend a visual effect for the visitors. And, there is a special guide in it, and he explains the history and the character of the Buddha statues humorously.
Shohouzan Kongorinji (Kongorinji temple)
It established 100 years earlier than Saimyoji, approximately 1300 years ago. There is no description about its scale. Originally Kongorinji was one of 'Mikkyo' temples, which were established deep inside mountains. These temples usually didn't have so many surrounding buildings. We suppose this temple was the smallest among three.
On the other hand, current situation is different. The width of its property would be opposite, and it would be the widest among three temples now. And main hall is located at around 500-meter distant place from the entrance gate.
Approach path is wide and almost flat during the first 100 meters or so, however, it changes into the natural stone stairs in its later part. The stairs continue endlessly, we become nervous, whether we can reach our destination or not.
However, there is another route for vehicle users, so, anyone afraid of his walking ability can go up to a near point of the main hall.
Although we recommend walking, because you can experience the atmosphere that a 'Mikkyo' temple creates.
The main hall was constructed approximately 730 years ago. So, it is original and national treasure. The three-stories pagoda was built approximately 650 years ago. This pagoda was badly damaged, but renovated 45 years ago, so it is also original (an important national asset). Photography is prohibited in the hall, so there is no photo of Buddha statues. In this hall, visitors can approach very close to the Buddha statues.
By the way, real history between Kongorinji and Nobunaga is also attractive. According to a paper for tourists, this temple was also fired by Nobunaga's army in 1573. The reason why Nobunaga ordered to fire this temple was a little strange.
Neighboring Hyakusaiji risked carrying in food to the Namazure castle, where was occupied by Nobunaga's enemy. Then, Kongorinji was considered as an accomplice. However, this temple was not guilty. We wonder if his order was really done by such unclear reason.
All the years of Nobunaga administration, temples had strong political power as close as samurai's power, sometimes samurai group attacked temples. On the contrary, Toyotomi's and Tokugawa's time, power balance between samurai and temples was changed, and temples lost their power. Toyotomi and Tokugawa were maybe more tolerant than Oda Nobunaga. But, in their time, samurai administrations didn't need to fight against temples' power any more. That is the reason attitude to temples was quite different between Nobunaga and his successors, we suppose.
As 'Horaitei' garden existed in the Saimyoji temple, there is a wide garden around a monk's accommodation, 'Myojuin' in the Kongorinnji temple. This garden is divided into three parts. The first part near the entrance was made in the Momoyama era, about 430 years ago. And the second part center of this garden was during the beginning of the Edo period, about 400 years ago. And the deepest part was during the end of the Edo period, about 170 years ago.
However, no documents and evidence, people don't consider as an important cultural place. So, it isn't registered as a Place of Scenic Beauty, but, it's a quite innovative and attractive garden.
In the second part, a tea house is placed, and we can not enter it. Furthermore, we can enter the veranda of the accommodation, but we can't enter the Japanese-style room.
We go out of the site of the accommodation. The main hall is far above the slope and endless stairs.
* The main hall (from information board)
This building is considered to be built at 1288 from an evidence below. At the 'Shumidan' (*1) inside of the building, there are many metal fittings. And one of the metal fittings, a record of the construction date (1288). So, experts consider this building is one of large-scale 'Mikkyo' style main-halls which was made in the Kamakura period. Floor plan of it is 7 interval width and 7 interval depth. At that time, width and depth were counted by intervals (pillar to pillar is one interval). And the roof is a hip-and-gable roof, 'Irimoya-zukuri' (*2). Inside of the 'Mikkyo' style main-halls are divided into 'Gaijin' and 'Naijin'. 'Gaijin' is a prayer space, monks and believers gathers, and 'Naijin' is a divine space, usually many Buddha statued are installed. There are boundaries made by lattice doors and diamond-shaped transoms. Wide and solemn inside, imposing appearance, it is a masterpiece of main-halls of the Middle Ages.
*1 Shumidan
An alter made of fine timber, generally with panelling, rich moldings, steep steps, and high rallings. 'Shumidan' is an alternative of 'Shumisen', which is an imaginary center of Buddhism world. In Shumidan, Buddha statues are installed.
*2 Irimoya-zukuri
A hip-and-gable roof construction. A gable type roof has a ridge and gable pediments on the upper part, and a hipped roof on the four sides on the lower part. This roof style was introduced from China at the sametime as Buddhism in the mid 6c.
Shakasan Hyakusaiji (Shaka-moutain Hyakusai-temple)
It established approximately 1400 years ago, so it is the oldest among three temples. It was originally for immigrants from southern Korea, an old country named 'Kudara', Packche. Its area was also the biggest, however, in a certain period, it changed its belonging sect, and became a 'Tendai' temple. Dozen of religious buildings and 300 and more monks' accommodation were there. On the contrary, there are only accommodation and a main hall survived. Quite melancholy mood is surrounding there. Inside of the main hall is also deserted, and no guide person.
The relationship between Hyakusaiji and Nobunaga was really severe. Nobunaga expected this temple to be the alternative of the Hieizan Enryakuji temple. The Hieizan Enryakuji temple had been an enemy of Nobunaga, and it was completely burnt in 1571. Maybe Hyakusaiji was the next biggest, so Nobunaga supported this temple as long as it obeyed. However, they betrayed Nobunaga, so he angered and destroyed this temple in 1573. Why Hyakusaiji betrayed Nobunaga? A little before Nobunaga came, this temple had a great fire and lost many buildings. At that time, Rokkaku clan (ruler of this region) helped generously, and Hyakusaiji felt a debt of gratitude towards this clan. For Hyakusaiji, it was so important that they chose to secretly help their benefactor. This temple became more declined.
Later, this temple was supported by Toyotomi and Tokugawa administration. Its buildings and surroundings were reconstructed one more time. However, its outstanding position was no more come back.
The garden of the accommodation, 'Kikenin' is a very famous garden. Many old people commented how expressed they were. If we choose one of three gardens, we recommend it too.
We enter this stroll garden beside the accommodation. At first, the path is narrow and ordinary, and soon the ground is covered by many big river stone.
Then, a wide pond appears in front of our eye-sight, and it is planned very closer to a veranda of accommodation. We go through stepping-stones and stepping-stone-bridges, then we arrive at the opposite side of the wide pond. Too much attractive it is! We enter a hill beside of the pond, this hill is covered by many stone, well treated shrubberies.
At a middle point, an observation open space is there. We can get a view of the whole temple area and far plane coastline of the Lake Biwa.
To the main hall, we can take a shortcut from the backyard of the garden.
However, the distance is a little long. We have to go up a long distance not so much long as Kongorinji.
Once this temple was sieged by Nobunaga's army (1573), the main hall had been fortified by stone walls, and it was like a mountain castle. Like Hieizan temple had many armed priests, this temple also had many of them. They resisted but defeated. Because of their effort flamed the anger of Nobunaga's army, they invaded severely, and the main hall and other buildings were burnt down completely.
The main hall we are looking now was reconstructed during the Edo period (1650).
Several Buddha statues escaped damage, but these historical and cultural value is not so much.
This temple was enumerated one of Japan's 36 most beautiful places (by CNN Travel). The reason is contrast of the main hall and autumn leaves is excellent.
Further information is a garden which was made during the Edo period. It is named 'Horaitei', located beside of the wide approach to the main hall, and it is registered as Place of Scenic Beauty by the national government.
This garden is located in front of a monk's accommodation. We go through a small gate beside it. The garden is a stroll garden with a pond. Beyond the pond, we enter a walking path, and it connects to the main hall area.
They might intend a visual effect for the visitors. And, there is a special guide in it, and he explains the history and the character of the Buddha statues humorously.
Shohouzan Kongorinji (Kongorinji temple)
It established 100 years earlier than Saimyoji, approximately 1300 years ago. There is no description about its scale. Originally Kongorinji was one of 'Mikkyo' temples, which were established deep inside mountains. These temples usually didn't have so many surrounding buildings. We suppose this temple was the smallest among three.
On the other hand, current situation is different. The width of its property would be opposite, and it would be the widest among three temples now. And main hall is located at around 500-meter distant place from the entrance gate.
However, there is another route for vehicle users, so, anyone afraid of his walking ability can go up to a near point of the main hall.
Although we recommend walking, because you can experience the atmosphere that a 'Mikkyo' temple creates.
The main hall was constructed approximately 730 years ago. So, it is original and national treasure. The three-stories pagoda was built approximately 650 years ago. This pagoda was badly damaged, but renovated 45 years ago, so it is also original (an important national asset). Photography is prohibited in the hall, so there is no photo of Buddha statues. In this hall, visitors can approach very close to the Buddha statues.
Neighboring Hyakusaiji risked carrying in food to the Namazure castle, where was occupied by Nobunaga's enemy. Then, Kongorinji was considered as an accomplice. However, this temple was not guilty. We wonder if his order was really done by such unclear reason.
All the years of Nobunaga administration, temples had strong political power as close as samurai's power, sometimes samurai group attacked temples. On the contrary, Toyotomi's and Tokugawa's time, power balance between samurai and temples was changed, and temples lost their power. Toyotomi and Tokugawa were maybe more tolerant than Oda Nobunaga. But, in their time, samurai administrations didn't need to fight against temples' power any more. That is the reason attitude to temples was quite different between Nobunaga and his successors, we suppose.
However, no documents and evidence, people don't consider as an important cultural place. So, it isn't registered as a Place of Scenic Beauty, but, it's a quite innovative and attractive garden.
In the second part, a tea house is placed, and we can not enter it. Furthermore, we can enter the veranda of the accommodation, but we can't enter the Japanese-style room.
We go out of the site of the accommodation. The main hall is far above the slope and endless stairs.
* The main hall (from information board)
This building is considered to be built at 1288 from an evidence below. At the 'Shumidan' (*1) inside of the building, there are many metal fittings. And one of the metal fittings, a record of the construction date (1288). So, experts consider this building is one of large-scale 'Mikkyo' style main-halls which was made in the Kamakura period. Floor plan of it is 7 interval width and 7 interval depth. At that time, width and depth were counted by intervals (pillar to pillar is one interval). And the roof is a hip-and-gable roof, 'Irimoya-zukuri' (*2). Inside of the 'Mikkyo' style main-halls are divided into 'Gaijin' and 'Naijin'. 'Gaijin' is a prayer space, monks and believers gathers, and 'Naijin' is a divine space, usually many Buddha statued are installed. There are boundaries made by lattice doors and diamond-shaped transoms. Wide and solemn inside, imposing appearance, it is a masterpiece of main-halls of the Middle Ages.
*1 Shumidan
An alter made of fine timber, generally with panelling, rich moldings, steep steps, and high rallings. 'Shumidan' is an alternative of 'Shumisen', which is an imaginary center of Buddhism world. In Shumidan, Buddha statues are installed.
*2 Irimoya-zukuri
A hip-and-gable roof construction. A gable type roof has a ridge and gable pediments on the upper part, and a hipped roof on the four sides on the lower part. This roof style was introduced from China at the sametime as Buddhism in the mid 6c.
Shakasan Hyakusaiji (Shaka-moutain Hyakusai-temple)
It established approximately 1400 years ago, so it is the oldest among three temples. It was originally for immigrants from southern Korea, an old country named 'Kudara', Packche. Its area was also the biggest, however, in a certain period, it changed its belonging sect, and became a 'Tendai' temple. Dozen of religious buildings and 300 and more monks' accommodation were there. On the contrary, there are only accommodation and a main hall survived. Quite melancholy mood is surrounding there. Inside of the main hall is also deserted, and no guide person.
The garden of the accommodation, 'Kikenin' is a very famous garden. Many old people commented how expressed they were. If we choose one of three gardens, we recommend it too.
We enter this stroll garden beside the accommodation. At first, the path is narrow and ordinary, and soon the ground is covered by many big river stone.
At a middle point, an observation open space is there. We can get a view of the whole temple area and far plane coastline of the Lake Biwa.
To the main hall, we can take a shortcut from the backyard of the garden.
However, the distance is a little long. We have to go up a long distance not so much long as Kongorinji.
Once this temple was sieged by Nobunaga's army (1573), the main hall had been fortified by stone walls, and it was like a mountain castle. Like Hieizan temple had many armed priests, this temple also had many of them. They resisted but defeated. Because of their effort flamed the anger of Nobunaga's army, they invaded severely, and the main hall and other buildings were burnt down completely.
Several Buddha statues escaped damage, but these historical and cultural value is not so much.
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