Inn town in the Edo period
'Tsumago' is world famous as a survived inn town in the form of original and no development. Whereas, 'Magome' is not so much famous but it's also a well preserved historical town, to the best of our knowledge.
At first, we planed to describe 'Tsumago' and 'Magome' with these towns' transition from the beginning.
These towns are located in neighboring location sandwiched only one mountain, and these post towns were made at the same moment.
Their historical position in the final stage of the Sengoku period was also strategically important. Because they were on one side and the other side of a border. When some military operation took place around this area, these two places were used as military camps of 2 groups standing against.
From such previous information, we considered 'Tsumago' and 'Magome' are places in line with the Sengoku and Edo period.
However, after visiting, and after reading documents, we came to feel like something was wrong. After the end of the Edo period, like other historical places, these towns were abandoned. Because the system of traffic from Tokyo to Kyoto and post towns for the feudal travelers became unnecessary.
How they recover from the decline? From the decline of the number of travelers, loss of the Sankin-kotai system, and loss of town peoples' job.
This theme was the most important for these towns. Almost all history of them was told in this line, so, we also reconstruct our description same.
(The Sankin-kotai was a system under which feudal lords in the Edo period were required to spend every other year in residence in Edo. So, they had to travel from their territory to Edo every year.)
Nakasendo Highway
We will start this article with an inquiry why a post town made at Tsumago.
Where was located in the middle of the Honshu island and deep in the mountains. When the Kamakura shogunate was established at Kamakura, Kanto region (1192), the political center was separated into Kamakura and Kyoto. (Before that, only Kyoto had been the political center.) People traveled between these two cities using Tokaido Highway which was the coastal route from Kamakura to Kyoto. During the Kamakura period, road improvements were mainly held at Tokaido Highway.
In the Sengoku period (1467-1573), the Sengoku lords governed huge territories. Their ideas of road improvements were only inside of their territories, so they road-maintenanced exclusively and militarily. They made new roads to the military base at the border area, but they didn't maintenance Highways in their territories.
When Toyotomi Hideyoshi's ruling era came, Japan was unified again.
However, he didn't make or maintenance Highways which were covered all around Japan. His target of urban design was only around Kyoto, so, he held many large-scale public works but these were in Kyoto and Osaka area. Then, the Tokugawa shogunate did. It reconstructed several Highways, and in every Highways post towns were made newly for the convenience of travelers. Nakasendo Highway was one of them, which was newly made from Edo to Kyoto. So, the shogunate made two routes from Edo to Kyoto, coastal route was Tokaido Highway and mountainous route was Nakasendo Highway. Tsumago was the 42nd post town and Magome was the 43rd from Edo.
Historical review of Tsumago and Magome
Near the Tsumago town, the Tumago castle was made when the Komaki-Nagakute war (1584) occurred. It was made by Kiso Yoshimasa who belonged to Toyotomi group. And, when the Sekigahara war (1600) occurred, Tokugawa Hidetada stayed at this castle. (Tokugawa Hidetada became the second at 1605, so, he was a big name.) In 1616, this castle was demolished. We have no information how big it was. According to a document, Tsumago town had around 80 houses, and 400-500 people lived.
Magome district was supposed to be suited for a military point. So, the opposite group (Tokugawa group) was stationed there, so, the place name 'Jinya' is remained now. (Jinya means 'garrison'.) Reviewing these places, we noticed each of them was important for military operation. There's no record any battle happened in these areas, so, 2 opposite armies only glared at each other. According to a document, Magome town had around 70 houses, and around 700 people lived. Source and time were about these records, so, town scale was supposed to be same, we think.
Tsumago town
Tsumago town is located at the southern end of Nagano Prefecture, alongside the Araragi river, a branch of the Kiso river. This town was once a post town of Nakasendo Highway, remaining in the same shape as it was at the end of the Edo era. The width of this town is approximately 600meters and along the center street there are around 80 houses remained. Almost all houses are original. If some buildings are reconstructed, at least reconstructions were done 100 years and more ago.
Mainstream of building style is a stone-weighed single roof and road side windows are covered with lattice of vertical timber bars. Every house was involved in posting station (hospitality work and transportation and so on). Town people were almost common folks, no wealthy merchant, no wealthy farmer. There was center of government called 'Honjin' and 'Waki-honjin'. These facilities were used for accommodation of feudal lords. Buildings of 'Honjin' were lost, but were reconstructed look like the original 13 years ago. And buildings of 'Waki-honjin' were reconstructed approximately 130 years ago.
Preservation activities at Tsumago town
Until very recently, Japanese people didn't have the idea to preserve structures which were historically important. For example, when the feudal era finished, government ordered demolition of all Japanese castles. The situation of ordinary houses was more severe. And Tsumago town's situation was much more severe. Town's people didn't have money for reconstruction, so, all houses lined along the main street survived. It's an exaggerated expression but they had no income, no job around there, so, all of them became migrants.
Around 1965, one preservation activity started. People who concerned thought to preserve the crumbling originals created new value. They had one advantage that no other towns had more remained original houses than them. Even if there were close situations, Tsumago town had another advantage which was their history as a late post town of Nakasendo Highway. Furthermore, this town places accessible area for tourists, however, quite deep in the mountains. Then, this post town became famous. That looks quite short story but in reality, they experienced many problems such as kicking out developers who only thought about their profits. And almost 50 years, they have been living their successful life.
Because we can't access their internal materials, we only use our imagination.
We suppose the original business plan bankrupted. We also suppose the main idea of tourism income was a parking fee. If we add another idea, there are several small public museums, but we think tourists will not visit these places recently. Because these are only unattractive renovated old-houses and they don't have worth seeing exhibitions compare to about 4 dollars fee. And from another perspective, they have another deadly problem. Their features were mainly made at the end of Edo period, so, these are around 150 old. They will need much more maintenance fee as the years go by.
Their success is continuing maybe 50 years. So, still they may have plenty of money stock. However, at least this year, they don't have any income because of COVID 19. We suppose that incident causes severe damage to the finance of this town.
Furthermore their stance to the developers and the public make them go to the dead end recently. First decision was excellent, but at some point, they should collaborate with private companies. If COVID 19's restriction finish, maybe they will survive. If that doesn't finish, we can't say what will happen.
Magome town (Magome-juku)
Description bellow is from an information board at the mouth of this town.
Magome-juku is located at the southernmost point of the Kiso Juichi-Juku (Eleven Post Towns of Kiso), and is the 43rd post town from Nihonbashi in Edo. The settlements of houses lined in rows on both sides of the narrow Nakasendo Highway, still retain remnants of the Edo period even today.
It is a so-called 'post town on a slope', built on the steep slope along the mountain ridge and a rare spot even all over Japan. There are several scenic spots where visitors can enjoy viewing the abundant nature. It is also the birthplace of the qreat writer Toson Shimazaki, and about 6000 documents including the manuscript of his masterpiece 'Before the Dawn' are exhibited at the Toson Memorial Hall (Magome-juku Honjin).
Preservation activities at Magome town
Preservation activities at Magome weren't told so often, why?
It's our very original idea and a little harsh comment, but this town is 'replica'. Most houses are reconstructed look like the original.
So, these are not old houses but old-ish houses. Then we don't have the feeling we felt at Tsumago town where aging of houses would destroy the whole town at any moment. On the other hand, it is not 'really precious remain', maybe you can find a similar town somewhere in Japan.
The road, main point of this town was renovated by cobblestone, quite much capital used we suppose. Many sightseeing places connected with the historical background are oftenly renovated using great amount of public funds nowadays. In comparison, treatment of Tsumago town's main street is still asphalt pavement, it looks a little pity.
Magome town seems to be given good treatment, such like redevelopment specialists' support, public funds. Furthermore private companies are incorporating and additional public support is also given, we suppose. In contrast, Tsumago town seems to be doing only preservation of historical buildings, we think this idea is old-fashioned. We suppose it would be one reason that Tsumago town belongs Nagano Prefecture and Magome town belongs Gifu Prefecture.
Around the mouth of the Magome town, wide broadway comes, several hotels are located, big souvenir shops are covered the entrance position. However, inside of the Magome town, there is no big souvenir shop, several originals still are located, newly made old-ish buildings covers the space among them. These points seem to be considered positive, at lease we felt so. It's quite comfortable for tourists, and there is sense of unity in this town. Whole town's appearance is well considered, scenery changes as we go through, there are many photo spots, and so on. It's one of perfect theme parks. If someone asks which one do you prefer, we will choose this.
However, after visiting, and after reading documents, we came to feel like something was wrong. After the end of the Edo period, like other historical places, these towns were abandoned. Because the system of traffic from Tokyo to Kyoto and post towns for the feudal travelers became unnecessary.
This theme was the most important for these towns. Almost all history of them was told in this line, so, we also reconstruct our description same.
(The Sankin-kotai was a system under which feudal lords in the Edo period were required to spend every other year in residence in Edo. So, they had to travel from their territory to Edo every year.)
Nakasendo Highway
We will start this article with an inquiry why a post town made at Tsumago.
Where was located in the middle of the Honshu island and deep in the mountains. When the Kamakura shogunate was established at Kamakura, Kanto region (1192), the political center was separated into Kamakura and Kyoto. (Before that, only Kyoto had been the political center.) People traveled between these two cities using Tokaido Highway which was the coastal route from Kamakura to Kyoto. During the Kamakura period, road improvements were mainly held at Tokaido Highway.
When Toyotomi Hideyoshi's ruling era came, Japan was unified again.
However, he didn't make or maintenance Highways which were covered all around Japan. His target of urban design was only around Kyoto, so, he held many large-scale public works but these were in Kyoto and Osaka area. Then, the Tokugawa shogunate did. It reconstructed several Highways, and in every Highways post towns were made newly for the convenience of travelers. Nakasendo Highway was one of them, which was newly made from Edo to Kyoto. So, the shogunate made two routes from Edo to Kyoto, coastal route was Tokaido Highway and mountainous route was Nakasendo Highway. Tsumago was the 42nd post town and Magome was the 43rd from Edo.
Historical review of Tsumago and Magome
Near the Tsumago town, the Tumago castle was made when the Komaki-Nagakute war (1584) occurred. It was made by Kiso Yoshimasa who belonged to Toyotomi group. And, when the Sekigahara war (1600) occurred, Tokugawa Hidetada stayed at this castle. (Tokugawa Hidetada became the second at 1605, so, he was a big name.) In 1616, this castle was demolished. We have no information how big it was. According to a document, Tsumago town had around 80 houses, and 400-500 people lived.
Magome district was supposed to be suited for a military point. So, the opposite group (Tokugawa group) was stationed there, so, the place name 'Jinya' is remained now. (Jinya means 'garrison'.) Reviewing these places, we noticed each of them was important for military operation. There's no record any battle happened in these areas, so, 2 opposite armies only glared at each other. According to a document, Magome town had around 70 houses, and around 700 people lived. Source and time were about these records, so, town scale was supposed to be same, we think.
Tsumago town
Tsumago town is located at the southern end of Nagano Prefecture, alongside the Araragi river, a branch of the Kiso river. This town was once a post town of Nakasendo Highway, remaining in the same shape as it was at the end of the Edo era. The width of this town is approximately 600meters and along the center street there are around 80 houses remained. Almost all houses are original. If some buildings are reconstructed, at least reconstructions were done 100 years and more ago.
Preservation activities at Tsumago town
Until very recently, Japanese people didn't have the idea to preserve structures which were historically important. For example, when the feudal era finished, government ordered demolition of all Japanese castles. The situation of ordinary houses was more severe. And Tsumago town's situation was much more severe. Town's people didn't have money for reconstruction, so, all houses lined along the main street survived. It's an exaggerated expression but they had no income, no job around there, so, all of them became migrants.
Because we can't access their internal materials, we only use our imagination.
We suppose the original business plan bankrupted. We also suppose the main idea of tourism income was a parking fee. If we add another idea, there are several small public museums, but we think tourists will not visit these places recently. Because these are only unattractive renovated old-houses and they don't have worth seeing exhibitions compare to about 4 dollars fee. And from another perspective, they have another deadly problem. Their features were mainly made at the end of Edo period, so, these are around 150 old. They will need much more maintenance fee as the years go by.
Furthermore their stance to the developers and the public make them go to the dead end recently. First decision was excellent, but at some point, they should collaborate with private companies. If COVID 19's restriction finish, maybe they will survive. If that doesn't finish, we can't say what will happen.
Magome town (Magome-juku)
Description bellow is from an information board at the mouth of this town.
Magome-juku is located at the southernmost point of the Kiso Juichi-Juku (Eleven Post Towns of Kiso), and is the 43rd post town from Nihonbashi in Edo. The settlements of houses lined in rows on both sides of the narrow Nakasendo Highway, still retain remnants of the Edo period even today.
It is a so-called 'post town on a slope', built on the steep slope along the mountain ridge and a rare spot even all over Japan. There are several scenic spots where visitors can enjoy viewing the abundant nature. It is also the birthplace of the qreat writer Toson Shimazaki, and about 6000 documents including the manuscript of his masterpiece 'Before the Dawn' are exhibited at the Toson Memorial Hall (Magome-juku Honjin).
Preservation activities at Magome town
It's our very original idea and a little harsh comment, but this town is 'replica'. Most houses are reconstructed look like the original.
So, these are not old houses but old-ish houses. Then we don't have the feeling we felt at Tsumago town where aging of houses would destroy the whole town at any moment. On the other hand, it is not 'really precious remain', maybe you can find a similar town somewhere in Japan.
The road, main point of this town was renovated by cobblestone, quite much capital used we suppose. Many sightseeing places connected with the historical background are oftenly renovated using great amount of public funds nowadays. In comparison, treatment of Tsumago town's main street is still asphalt pavement, it looks a little pity.
Magome town seems to be given good treatment, such like redevelopment specialists' support, public funds. Furthermore private companies are incorporating and additional public support is also given, we suppose. In contrast, Tsumago town seems to be doing only preservation of historical buildings, we think this idea is old-fashioned. We suppose it would be one reason that Tsumago town belongs Nagano Prefecture and Magome town belongs Gifu Prefecture.
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