Murouji temple

Restart

Because of a covid-19 epidemic, the government banned to move between prefecture borders. To be more precise, it was't exactly prohibited, but self-restraint was strongly recommended. So, we fell into a difficult situation not to visit historical places. Even though, we ventured to visit several in-prefecture facilities, but the entrances were shut.

In the meantime, at June 19th, an information was announced that the self-restraint was no more necessary. However, the number of newly found patients of covid-19 began to increase at the start of July. Impatient people say the second wave has come.

For us, this timing was an opportunity to take some actions. We visited a temple in the Nara prefecture as a first step. That day was a middle day of a series of heavy rain days, these rain might be caused by the Global warming climate change. It was the visit in drizzling.

The Murouji temple is an old temple located between the Nara prefecture and the Mie prefecture. It was founded in the beginning of the Heian period (around 800 AD). And belonged a Buddhism sects named the Singon sect.

Usually, temples and shrines are considered to be completely different. 
Buddhism and Shintoism, Buddhas and divine spirits, these are supposed to be confronting each other. However, these are not confronting in Japan.

The situation at that time was follows. Buddhism in Japan was a imported religion. So, the people who imported Buddhism chose a way to create a fusion with domestic beliefs, Shinto. We don't have information that old Buddhism in China created same relationship with opposite beliefs or not. However, at least in Japan, when a temple was founded, they selected a place by a spiritual reason theorized by Shinto. 
For example, a place of a Dragon King legend chose as an establish siting of an important temple. Furthermore, the first chosen sects were the sects regarding same kind of belief. Like Shinto, they respected training in deep mountains or mysticism. 

After the establishment of this temple, it was under the protection of the Kofukuji temple, which was the biggest temple in Nara region. And it became relatively decline its potential year by year.

By the way, when the Murouji temple is introduced, the word 'Nyonin-koya' were added very often. Like 'Nyonin-koya Murouji temple'. 'Nyonin-koya' means a catch phrase. In this word, 'koya' means 'Koyasan'. And 'Koyasan' is one of very famous religious divine area. In 'Koyasan' area, many temples were established and this area became the center of  the Singon sect. 

There was one problem, 'Koyasan' avoided coming females to this area. And back to the catch phrase, 'Nyonin' means female. So, 'Nyonin-koya' means the place like 'Koyasan' for female people. Many female believers visited here after the new catch phrase accepted by the world. Then, potential of this temple raised again. This change was happened in the Edo period. After that, this temple recovered and flourished again.

So, this temple had variety situations, such as prosperity, decline and recover. 
However, temples should not be told in the context of power games. Like churches in western world, temples in Japan are also holy place. We should use more appropriate language, but we don't have the ability, so please forgive us.

There are several important historical buildings in the site. Also, many national treasures and important cultural properties it has. It's quite available to introduce this temple from cultural aspect. However, regarding the old time catch phrase, people feel importance in another aspect. Because this temple is the 'Nyonin-koya', female believers sanctuary.

Again, this temple had many competitions for powers. It glistened many times in the long history. 
Although these historical facts were told at the corner of the stage. In other word, such as feminine sensitivity or women's literal context. When books introduce this temple, an author of the beginning essay is absolutely by a woman. One more thing, it's quite unnecessary information but the Murouji temple's pages in every guide book are composed for female tourists.



Visit

When we visited there, we were in the bad mood because of a frustration by covid-19. And the weather was also in the bad mood because of continually repeating rainy days. This trial would be something special for us, and the result would be good.

There were only two female groups, maybe because the day was week day and also rainy day. At the 'Hondo', one of the main buildings, a female monk welcomed tourists chanting a Buddhist sutra. The sound echoed welcoming us. One woman in a female group asked something about a Buddhist statue. The female monk answered delightedly. All stage settings which were sound of rain, chants of a female monk, and silence made us the Murouji temple a perfect place. It's worth announcing itself as 'Nyonin-koya'. 


Official information of 'Murouji Temple'

Located at the foot of Mount Murou, Murouji is the head temple of the Murouji sect of Shingon Buddhism. 
This area had been regarded as a sacred location since ancient times, people worshipped the Dragon God, said to live in a cave on the Mount Murou. In times of drought the Emperor of time would sent messengers to pray to the Dragon for rain.

The temple's official history began in the late seventh century, by Imperial order of the Emperor Tenmu (reign 673-686), En no Gyoujya (Ozunu) established the temple. And in the late eighth century, the Emperor Kanmu (reign 781-806) ordered a high priest Kenkai of Kofukuji to begin to rebuild the temple, but soon he died (793). So that his disciple Syuen took over Kenkei's duties, he built a hall, and a pagoda. 
After that Shintai of Kukai's disciple entered the temple with Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. And in Kamakura period, the main Kanjyodo Hall (1308) and Miedo Hall which enshrines Kukai were built.

Murouji Temple is celebrated as one of places of worship for women. In contrast to Mt. Koya (Wakayama Prefecture) which to prohibited women until Meiji 38 (1905), Murouji allowed women to visit, so it was called 'Nyonin Koya' which means Koya for women. 

When you mention the most important Buddhist statue, 'Shaka-nyorai-ritsuzo' comes in this temple. 'Shaka-nyorai-ritsuzo' means 'The most important image 'Shaka-nyorai' standing statue. This statue is placed in 'Kondo'. 'Kondo' is also historically very important building. So, everybody focus on him and his outer building. 

However, we are quite twisted, so, we choose our own recommendation. Our recommendation is an another Buddhist statue in other building, 'Hondo'. His name is 'Nyoirin-kanonzo' and he has six arms. 

Why does he have six arms? There are plenty of explanations. His arms would be an absolutely interesting point, however, we have another direction. His legs. He is sitting his right leg up. And another leg is sliding under the right leg. And we are interested in the positions of each legs, these soles placed together. This pose has been explained he is considering how to solve entire human beings and so on. If there are Japanese faithful Buddhists, please shut your eyes. There's no doubt this pose is joke!   


Why does he twist his body and unnaturally place his both soles together? Furthermore, why does he have quite unnatural six arms? We doubt you really trust his seriousness. In comparison, 'Shaka-nyorai-ritsuzo' is standing with dignity, and his height is one size larger than us, so he looks very trustful. If we don't believe him, he will maybe teach a lesson. What an unbelieving and ill-mannered descriptions we are! We would describe proper expression. If we can do that, this view point should be treated as a considerable.   

Official information of 'Kondo' Hall (National Treasure)

Situated at the top of Yoroi-zaka (Armor Slope, so named for its resemblance to samurai armor), the Kondo Hall dates to the mid-ninth century, making it on the oldest structures at Murouji Temple. Its design is somewhat unusual in masonry terrace. It is roofed with shingles.

At inner sanctum of the hall there had been unusual arrangement of Buddhist figures: five large, halo-backed statues with twelve smaller figures in front. But at present there are three large statues and six smaller figures. In the center of the back row is the Shakamuni Buddha.

Toward the left is the statue of Monju (means graceful and lovely), the bodhisattva representing the perfection of wisdom. Toward the right is Yakusi Nyorai (means a medical doctor), these date to the Heian period. In the front row stand of six figures of the Twelve Divine Generals, which date to the Kamakura period (1185-1333). Those crafted exquisitely lifelike warriors guard the twelve traditional direction. Each bears a Chinese zodiac animal upon its head. The statues of Eleven-faced Kannon and Jizo and other six Divine Generals are housed in the Treasure Hall March 2020.  


Official information of 'Statue of Shaka Nyorai' (National Treasure)

The Shakyamuni Buddha is the principal object of worship in the Kondo Hall. It was carved from a single piece of Japanese nutmeg (kaya) wood. Both the statue and the halo surrounding it were carved in early Heian period (794-1185). And those show us the case of excellent skill and craftsmanship at that time. The realistic flowing robe painted cinnabar red was executed in a style known as 'Renpa-shiki' or 'Rippling waves'. This particular example is known as 'Murouji drapery'.


Official information of 'Five-Storied Pagoda' (National Treasure)

At just 16.10 meters tall, this pagoda is both the smallest outdoor five-story pagoda in Japan and the second oldest after the pagoda at Horuji Temple. Built in the early ninth century,it is roofed which cypress bark and topped with unusual canopy, as well as a water bottle ornament in the flask shape.

This pagoda, a symbol of the natural and architentural beauty of Murouji Temple, is a memorial to the historical Buddha, Shakyamuni (a saint of Shakya tribe). It is especially stunning when framed by rhododendrona in spring and Japanese maple tree in autumn. In 1998, a tyhoon caused a large tree to fall onto the pagoda, damaging it severely. Donations poured in from across Japan and overseas, not only from Buddhists but people of every faith, and the pagoda was restored over a two-year period.


In the last, we apologize our expression quite falls into disorder. Our final expression is the Murouji temple is worth visiting. We want to visit with further knowledge and pure minds next time.